1

Topic: Park, home, and Y axis skip problems after E3D install

Splitting this off from another thread since it was getting off topic there.

Before installing my E3D, I was having only one problem with my SD3: filament failing to feed and extrude.  But the print head and bed movement, heating, etc. were all working pretty much perfectly.  No changes were made during the E3D install except those documented here: http://www.soliwiki.com/E3D_extruder

Since the installation, my filament feed and extrude problems are completely gone (hooray!) but I have two or three new sets of problems.  Some of these (bed heating much more slowly and LED flickering) may indicate I need to replace the power supply.  Maybe the E3D's heating core draws enough more power to tip the barely-adequate stock SD3 power supply over the line.  (And no one noticed before me, because no one ever did the E3D who hadn't already happened to do the power supply upgrade for other reasons?  If so, there's another set of steps to add to my E3D install instructions.)

The other problems are probably not related to the power supply issue (though I suppose they could be!) and are far more concerning, since they're stopping me from printing.  (And my wife's getting a little impatient of the "oh, I just need to do one more upgrade and then I'll be able to print!" line, so I really hope it's not going to be another cascade of rebuilds.)

The Problems

When I try to start a job, one of the first things in the standard gcode is G28 (home all axes).  Every time this command executes, no matter where the print head is just before this, and no matter what Repetier-Host thinks about where the print head is, whether these agree or not, the print head moves to the back right corner (as it should) and then keeps trying to move farther back and farther to the right.  This makes a terrible grinding noise, but apart from the likely wearing-out this is doing to some motors or belts or something, it doesn't cause any obvious, immediate problems.  The print job then begins as it should.

Later, during the print, there'll be a moment where there's a fraction of a second of the same kind of grinding sound, even though the print head is nowhere near the corner.  I'm describing it as the same kind of grinding sound, but it might not be that similar; it's hard to match it up from memory when it's just a split-second that comes without warning.  And when this happens, the print skips back on the Y axis -- that layer starts printing back farther on the print bed, between 1.5mm and 10mm.  That has happened every one of the six tries I've made at printing.

What's Changed?

Let me emphasize again that I made no changes to anything about belts, motors, mounting, etc.  The belts all still seem tight as they were before, and little surprise since I never even touched them.  The differences in my system since last week (when none of this ever happened) are exactly the E3D installation.  So that means:

  • The E3D is there, and hangs down a little farther, and weighs a bit more, and maybe draws a bit more power

  • The firmware was reloaded, with the changes to the thermistor type and max temperature

And that's it.

No changes in where the wires mount (I reused some old connectors from my first failed Solidoodle hot-end, so they still connect to the same place in the same way -- though for now, I still have the whole extra red wire from the heating block coiled up and looking ungainly, rather than trimmed, because once I cut it I can't reattach it when one of you tells me I should have wired it a different way in the first place).

No changes in the wiring for the E3D's active cooling fan.  I had already run wires from a separate 12V power supply (the one I also use to power the fans that cool my circuit board) out to the extruder, to power the fan that IanJohnson had recommended to cool the PEEK.  So those are now supplying the E3D fan.

The big glaring question mark for me, but which no one else seems to want to think about, is whether the firmware I downloaded (http://www.soliwiki.com/E3D_extruder#Do … ource_code) is the same as what was loaded previously on my Solidoodle.  Maybe no one wants to consider that is because it's ridiculous, the repository has to be the same version that was on my printer.  But maybe it's not the same, and all bets are off.

Y axis skipping
Y axis skips are often caused by overheating on the circuit board, but that's never been the case for me.  And I have a pair of 40mm fans cooling the circuit board any time the SD3 is plugged in (they're on their own power supply as mentioned above).

No, the filament isn't binding up.

Note that Y axis skipping is the very first problem I fought with, when my SD3 was new out of the box, and kept me from getting my first successful print for more than a month.  Ultimately, setting a Z lift in Slic3r settings was the only thing that fixed it.  No one ever found a really successful explanation for the cause.

Endstops

I've had some confusing and seemingly contradictory comments made about what the various firmware settings mean about the endstops, but I can confirm that I've tested that the endstops appear to work.  That is:

  • I've visibly inspected them and nothing is jammed into them, there's plenty of gap in them, etc.

  • I've bent them a bit farther out just to be sure.

  • If I hold one in with a pencil while trying to use RH's manual controls to move or home, the head refuses to move.

Printer Shape and Settings
I didn't take a picture of my RH Printer Settings before the E3D install, but I did not knowingly change any of them, and it seems a bit hard to believe they would have changed some magical way while doing this.  However, one thing that was noticed is, on Printer Shape, the HomeX and HomeY were set to Min instead of Max.  My best guess is that this has been wrong all along and hasn't actually affected anything. 

Ian has suggested I need to change either the firmware or RH so they're in synch, but I'm a little confused about what are the right settings.  Looks like some changes should have been part of the E3D instructions all this time (and I'm working on adding them, once I figure out what they are), but it's unclear to me if that's just the Z axis size changing from 200 to 194 due to the extra overhead, or if there's more to it

Here's my RH printer settings as of this morning:
http://www.soliforum.com/misc.php?action=pun_attachment&item=3481&download=0

Trying to follow Ian's directions in chat, I have changed it thus:
http://www.soliwiki.com/images/a/a4/E3D_printershape.png

Here's what's in the Configuration.h I used:

#if SOLIDOODLE_VERSION == 3
  #define X_MAX_POS 209
  #define X_MIN_POS 0
  #define Y_MAX_POS 200
  #define Y_MIN_POS 0
  #define Z_MAX_POS 200
  #define Z_MIN_POS 0

// The position of the homing switches
  #define MANUAL_HOME_POSITIONS  // If defined, MANUAL_*_HOME_POS below will be used
  //#define BED_CENTER_AT_0_0  // If defined, the center of the bed is at (X=0, Y=0)
//Manual homing switch locations:
  #define MANUAL_X_HOME_POS 209
  #define MANUAL_Y_HOME_POS 200
  #define MANUAL_Z_HOME_POS 0

If I can get clear about what all these settings should be, I'll add them to the E3D instructions appropriately.  I was told they should all match, but unsure which should change, or even which correspond to which.

What's Wrong?
First, does the Y axis skipping have anything to do with the way RH keeps grinding the gears during that initial G28 command to home all axes, or are these unrelated problems?

What settings do I need in Printer Shape, Printer Settings, and firmware?

And what to try next for the Y axis skipping?

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Re: Park, home, and Y axis skip problems after E3D install

I don't know if the current draw on the extruder has any effect on what the stepper driver outputs for a given position of it's little potentiometer, but you might check the vref there and make sure it is still the right amount.  Also run through that true circles alignment process again.  Something you can do quickly is loosed the short belt on the Y stepper slightly and see if it improves anything.  Backlash would be worse, but it might not skip.  For the grinding during homing, make sure nothing anywhere along the back of the extruder or carriages is hitting the back of the printer before it can get to the endstop.

Is it moving to the home position and doing the little back and forth movement on each of the switches and then grinding against them?  Or does it seem to be trying to go past the switches and then giving up after grinding for a few seconds?

3 (edited by Nico_hk 2013-09-24 21:26:19)

Re: Park, home, and Y axis skip problems after E3D install

Well that is strange, I just installed my E3D last weekend (I followed your instructions actually) and the only problem I had was the extruder Vref which was too high.

My first suggestion would be to do a dry run (with no heat on the extruder, only on the bed) to see if it keeps skipping steps, if it does then it's not the power supply.

Also I think the link you posted for the firmware is for the Solidoodle 2, although the code you wrote seems to be right, you might want to double check.

Lastly maybe changing X and Y driver outputs will help knowing if it's a driver or stepper issue.

4

Re: Park, home, and Y axis skip problems after E3D install

IanJohnson wrote:

Is it moving to the home position and doing the little back and forth movement on each of the switches and then grinding against them?  Or does it seem to be trying to go past the switches and then giving up after grinding for a few seconds?

The latter.  And I don't mean it's trying to move a few millimeters.  It grinds for a good three or four solid seconds, maybe more.  This isn't a small alignment problem, it's some setting in firmware or elsewhere being way, way off.

I have not reloaded anything in firmware because I'm still unclear, when you told me these values should be changed so RH and firmware match, which things should be changed.  I am not even 100% sure which firmware define matches which RH field (and there are also some Slic3r settings that mirror some of the same).  I'm also holding off updating the wiki page until I get some clearer input on that.

Nico_hk wrote:

Also I think the link you posted for the firmware is for the Solidoodle 2, although the code you wrote seems to be right, you might want to double check.

The directions I took were from the wiki page on updating Solidoodle firmware -- I have no idea if that's wrong, I just copied that page and elaborated it a bit.  The page did say the same firmware works for both SD2 and SD3 (hence the change to that one define), but if there's really a separate firmware for SD3, no one's pointed me to it (I've asked, too).  This is the trouble with trying to write a wiki page when I don't already know as much as some of the others around here.  If there are separate SD3 firmware files I should have used, that the wiki page on firmware didn't mention, and no one else noticed were missing from my directions all this time, that could well be the source of all my woes.

Nico_hk wrote:

Well that is strange, I just installed my E3D last weekend (I followed your instructions actually) and the only problem I had was the extruder Vref which was too high.
Lastly maybe changing X and Y driver outputs will help knowing if it's a driver or stepper issue.

I'm not sure what any of this refers to, or where to start looking.  I am just barely out of "newbie" stage.

Nico_hk wrote:

My first suggestion would be to do a dry run (with no heat on the extruder, only on the bed) to see if it keeps skipping steps, if it does then it's not the power supply.

Interesting idea.  I can probably figure out how to convince RH to try that.

5 (edited by Hunter Green 2013-09-24 22:02:14)

Re: Park, home, and Y axis skip problems after E3D install

2mm lift doesn't seem to make any difference on the Y skip.

I think maybe I also had an X skip on one of those tests, but not totally sure.

I had to redo my Z-axis calibration.  Not sure why.

I should have a new power supply in two days.

I am going to put the printer away until then.  My wife and I are both getting frustrated and a couple of days off might be a good thing.

6

Re: Park, home, and Y axis skip problems after E3D install

I meant swapping the X and Y stepper motor connections on the board.

For a dry run the option is on the Manual Control tab.

I have the "new motherboard" so I just downloaded the source files from the main site. Can´t post a link but is easy to find (file is "Solidoodle_6142013.zip") it has 2 versions for SD2 or SD3.

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Re: Park, home, and Y axis skip problems after E3D install

The endstops are being weird, and I can't see any reason why they would be ignored.   Homing is different from manual movement, and endstops can be told to behave differently depending on what is going on.

So start with the extruder to the left and tell it to go right 100mm so it will be sure to hit the endstop before it goes 100.  Does it stop at the endstop or try to keep going?  It should hit the endstop and stop while pressing it.

Start with the extruder to the left again and then hit Home X and see if anything different happens.  It should hit the endstop, back up, and then touch it again.

While you hold down the X endstop, it should move to the left but refuse to move right.

I don't see anything out of order with the configuration.h, but there are also endstop settings in configuration_adv.h.  Could you post that one too?

8

Re: Park, home, and Y axis skip problems after E3D install

I use a modified version due to my Ramps setup but hopefully I can be of assistance with the firmware.

From configuration.h, check: (270-274)

// ENDSTOP SETTINGS:
// Sets direction of endstops when homing; 1=MAX, -1=MIN
#define X_HOME_DIR 1 //{SD Patch}
#define Y_HOME_DIR 1 //{SD Patch}
#define Z_HOME_DIR -1

This should help matching the Repetier-Host settings you posted above.

From configuration_adv.h: (81)

#define ENDSTOPS_ONLY_FOR_HOMING // If defined the endstops will only be used for homing

This will decide if end stops are ignored during a print when triggered.

Otherwise, the best way to check on end stops are to enter

// M119 - Output Endstop status to serial port

in the RH manual commands box. Setting up the correct enstops for Ramps was a nightmare because it allows for six, but this made it better.

Basically, enter M119 with the printer away from the end stops. You should see this in the log:

11:10:24.681 : Reporting endstop status
11:10:24.686 : x_min: TRIGGERED
11:10:24.686 : x_max: open
11:10:24.686 : y_min: TRIGGERED
11:10:24.686 : y_max: open
11:10:24.686 : z_min: open
11:10:24.686 : z_max: TRIGGERED

Hold the endstop manually for one at a time and enter M119 to check the end stops are acknowledged by the printer. For instance, when I hold the z axis stop the M119 message is:

11:12:19.259 : Reporting endstop status
11:12:19.264 : x_min: TRIGGERED
11:12:19.264 : x_max: open
11:12:19.264 : y_min: TRIGGERED
11:12:19.264 : y_max: open
11:12:19.264 : z_min: TRIGGERED
11:12:19.264 : z_max: TRIGGERED

If all three register correctly, the next thing I would do is move the carriages a long way away from the stops, start the homing process but push the end stop switch manually with your finger to make the process stop.

If it does, then you must have an obstruction somewhere. I know the y stop is easily prevented from stopping sometimes because there is only a small gap between the rear of the extruder fan and the z axis screw. In the past it's ground for me if the wiring loom was wedged in between the extruder fan and the z rods (part of the reason I made the cable chain).

9

Re: Park, home, and Y axis skip problems after E3D install

Hunter Green wrote:

Here's what's in the Configuration.h I used:

#if SOLIDOODLE_VERSION == 3
  #define X_MAX_POS 209
  #define X_MIN_POS 0
  #define Y_MAX_POS 200
  #define Y_MIN_POS 0
  #define Z_MAX_POS 200
  #define Z_MIN_POS 0

// The position of the homing switches
  #define MANUAL_HOME_POSITIONS  // If defined, MANUAL_*_HOME_POS below will be used
  //#define BED_CENTER_AT_0_0  // If defined, the center of the bed is at (X=0, Y=0)
//Manual homing switch locations:
  #define MANUAL_X_HOME_POS 209
  #define MANUAL_Y_HOME_POS 200
  #define MANUAL_Z_HOME_POS 0

This is wrong. MANUAL_HOME_POSITIONS is not defined in the original release, for either version. This will most like cause your printer to move in the wrong direction after the very first homing (either for the slow re-bump for homing, or park position). Change this and re-flash your firmware.

Also, it sounds like something is wrong with your power supply. I dont know if the extra couple of amps in your 40watt heater that came with the E3D is enough to overload it, but you have described that your bed no longer heats up correctly even with the E3D off. It really sounds like a power supply issue. Hunt around for an extra PC power supply or something, or just upgrade to rule it out at this point.

First, go download a fresh copy of the original firmware and make just the temperature/thermistor changes and reflash.
http://www.solidoodle.com/solidoodle-mo … -firmware/

Chuck Bittner is a quadriplegic gamer who is petitioning the major console developers to include internal button remapping in all console games. You can help.
Sign Chuck Bittners petition

10

Re: Park, home, and Y axis skip problems after E3D install

Hazer wrote:

This is wrong. MANUAL_HOME_POSITIONS is not defined in the original release, for either version. This will most like cause your printer to move in the wrong direction after the very first homing (either for the slow re-bump for homing, or park position.

I beg to differ. All MANUAL_HOME_POSITIONS does is tell the printer what coordinates it's at when it triggers the end stop for that axis. We have been using this for a long time now without any one ever having problems.

The link you have provided is for the new Printrboard motherboard, and we are discussing the Sanguinololu motherboard.

If you rely only on official Solidoodle releases then you will be wasting a lot of time. When they launched their github it was just a copy of mine. It also took them many weeks to even post up the firmware for the new board, stranding users wanting to upgrade their printer.

I agree on your advice for the power supply. The cartridges in the E3D hot end draw quite a great deal more current than the resistors used in the original hot end.

11

Re: Park, home, and Y axis skip problems after E3D install

lawsy wrote:

The link you have provided is for the new Printrboard motherboard, and we are discussing the Sanguinololu motherboard.

Uggh. Forgot that are two motherboard versions for SD3.

Chuck Bittner is a quadriplegic gamer who is petitioning the major console developers to include internal button remapping in all console games. You can help.
Sign Chuck Bittners petition

12

Re: Park, home, and Y axis skip problems after E3D install

Haven't yet tried to figure out what y'all have said about what my firmware and RH settings should be -- was hoping someone would just say, and haven't had time to try to reconstruct the answer out of the discussion -- maybe tonight.

Last night, though, got the new power supply and installed it.  No more flickering lights; no more slow bed heating.  Still have the print-ruining giant Y axis skip problem, and seem to have a vastly increased rate of filament kinking between the toothed wheel and the E3D.  This printer does have a knack for inventing a new showstopper problem every time I finish the last one, immediately.

13

Re: Park, home, and Y axis skip problems after E3D install

You guys are going to think this is stupid or funny, but, I made a wiki page explaining how to upgrade the power supply:

http://www.soliwiki.com/Upgrade_The_Power_Supply

This is very basic stuff, I know.  I figured, it can't hurt to have the page, and it might help people who are anxious about a job like this understand how basic it really is.  Plus, it ends up being a good place to document any further less-basic steps, like some of the soldering instructions I've seen recommended for shunts you should also do after doing this.

14

Re: Park, home, and Y axis skip problems after E3D install

Do your Y-Axis problems look like this? (Where gaps appear in the horizontal bars of the TAH letters)

http://home.comcast.net/~tomhorsley/hardware/solidoodle/first-complete.jpg

Following the video from solidoodle on y-axis and belt tension adjustment fixed those for me. The video can be found right after this:

http://www.solidoodle.com/how-to-2/trou … ckcarriage

The problem with the video is he never actually says what he is trying to accomplish, but after fiddling with them for a while, I think the idea is to make sure the pulleys are lined up so there is no side to side force on the belt, all the force goes into rotation of the shaft.

15

Re: Park, home, and Y axis skip problems after E3D install

No, the problem is when it's printing and suddenly the whole print shifts back by around 10mm.

My belt tension is fine as far as I can tell.  My circles are perfect circles (apart from that I can only print a few layers of them before they become offset circles, but they're still perfect).

16 (edited by 3d-oodler 2013-09-27 14:07:38)

Re: Park, home, and Y axis skip problems after E3D install

I had y shift occur even with a fan blowing on the board.

I added a heatsink to the y stepper driver (in addition to the fan) and that solved it for me.

17 (edited by Stevos758 2013-09-27 19:14:41)

Re: Park, home, and Y axis skip problems after E3D install

I had an issue after my upgrade with the X axis - the one that moves the print head? The mounting screws for the stepper pushed my screws holding the stepper motor out/loose. This would cause my X stepper to bind up. I tightened two stepper screws and used two mounting screws for now since the mounting screws are too long and just push the stepper screws out. It's been working great so far. I need to get some shorter mounting screws.

Edit: Sorry I was thinking of carriage replacement upgrades. That is all I have been thinking of.

18

Re: Park, home, and Y axis skip problems after E3D install

3d-oodler wrote:

I had y shift occur even with a fan blowing on the board.

I added a heatsink to the y stepper driver (in addition to the fan) and that solved it for me.

In addition to my doubts that some mysterious failure in the y stepper would happen to occur while doing the E3D upgrade but be wholly unrelated to it, the thing about this idea that I find particularly dubious is that it went from "never ever happens" to "happens dramatically in every single print", which is not how I understand an overheating problem tends to occur.  Particularly not when ambient temperatures just dropped about 5 degrees in my house.  The other problem with this idea is that grinding noise where the printer is trying to move and failing, like it's getting stuck on something, which is not how I understand the stepper controller overheating problem would show itself.

If I sound grumpy, my apologies.  I do appreciate the effort from all you guys to help me.  It's true, though, I am grumpy.  In the time I've had this printer, it's been probably about 10% time I could use it, and 90% time when I was waiting to pour money and time into it, chasing an endless series of mods and upgrades and recalibrations which never seem to actually get me to that "can print" finish line.  I know that reflects on me (my lack of tinkering skill) and the state of the technology more than it does on the quality of anyone's advice, but it does get very frustrating, and I know that comes across.

I think the next thing I need to do on the Y problem is to train a camera on the printer's innards and try a print, so I can catch it in the act of skipping, in hopes that it might reveal something.

19

Re: Park, home, and Y axis skip problems after E3D install

IanJohnson wrote:

I don't see anything out of order with the configuration.h, but there are also endstop settings in configuration_adv.h.  Could you post that one too?

It's attached.  It should be identical to those in the repository your wiki page on firmware updating points to, since I never edited it.  I put the configuration.h full file here as well; it reflects only the three changes that I was told to do.

Post's attachments

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Configuration_adv.h 14.13 kb, 1 downloads since 2013-09-27 

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20 (edited by Hunter Green 2013-09-27 19:42:06)

Re: Park, home, and Y axis skip problems after E3D install

lawsy wrote:

From configuration.h, check: (270-274)

// ENDSTOP SETTINGS:
// Sets direction of endstops when homing; 1=MAX, -1=MIN
#define X_HOME_DIR 1 //{SD Patch}
#define Y_HOME_DIR 1 //{SD Patch}
#define Z_HOME_DIR -1

Mine match this.

This should help matching the Repetier-Host settings you posted above.

lawsy wrote:

From configuration_adv.h: (81)

#define ENDSTOPS_ONLY_FOR_HOMING // If defined the endstops will only be used for homing

Yep, matches.  (Never even opened that file after downloading it when I was updating firmware.)

Tonight if I get a chance I will try the tests Ian suggested (manually moving to the endstop) and lawsy suggested (using the gcode to test endstop status).  (It's going to be hard to find more time to invest in this the next few weeks.  Was really hoping the days spent on the last few iterations were going to be enough, and now I have to turn time to other things for a while.)

I still don't know what you guys meant about checking vrefs above -- I tried to Google the terms but nothing I found was something I could correlate to what to be checking where and how -- and given that Ian told me my firmware and RH settings needed to be changed to match each other, I am no closer now than I was then to knowing which settings correspond to one another, and which values are right for them, so I still haven't changed anything from what's in the top post of this thread.

21

Re: Park, home, and Y axis skip problems after E3D install

Hunter Green wrote:
3d-oodler wrote:

I had y shift occur even with a fan blowing on the board.

I added a heatsink to the y stepper driver (in addition to the fan) and that solved it for me.

In addition to my doubts that some mysterious failure in the y stepper would happen to occur while doing the E3D upgrade but be wholly unrelated to it, the thing about this idea that I find particularly dubious is that it went from "never ever happens" to "happens dramatically in every single print", which is not how I understand an overheating problem tends to occur.

In my case I went from a Sanguino board with stock hotend and zero y shift; to a RAMPS/Mega with E3D and constant shift.

Granted the power consumption of the new board is not the same as the old, even if the VREF on the stepper driver was the same.  Still, this was unexpected to me.

All I'm saying is that if you have ruled out other things, but this is still a possibility, then consider it.

22

Re: Park, home, and Y axis skip problems after E3D install

Hunter Green wrote:

I still don't know what you guys meant about checking vrefs above -- I tried to Google the terms but nothing I found was something I could correlate to what to be checking where and how -- and given that Ian told me my firmware and RH settings needed to be changed to match each other, I am no closer now than I was then to knowing which settings correspond to one another, and which values are right for them, so I still haven't changed anything from what's in the top post of this thread.

http://wiki.solidoodle.com/multimeter-testing

and

http://www.solidoodle.com/how-to-2/trou … /#steppers

Vref refers to adjusting the stepper drivers. You added some weight to your hotend assembly, your driver may not be adjusted to handle the extra weight, and may overheat because of it.

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23 (edited by Hunter Green 2013-09-27 22:01:15)

Re: Park, home, and Y axis skip problems after E3D install

IanJohnson wrote:

The endstops are being weird, and I can't see any reason why they would be ignored.   Homing is different from manual movement, and endstops can be told to behave differently depending on what is going on.

So start with the extruder to the left and tell it to go right 100mm so it will be sure to hit the endstop before it goes 100.  Does it stop at the endstop or try to keep going?  It should hit the endstop and stop while pressing it.

Started at the park position.  Moved forward (-Y) a bit, then left (-X) 40mm,.  Then right 50mm so it would hit the endstop.  It moved to the endstop and stopped immediately.  But then, RH thought it was at X 209 so it might be that it stopped it.

So then I moved 50mm left and turned the motors off, then manually moved the head about 10mm right with my thumb, then turned motors back on and hit the 50mm right button.  It hit the endstop and there was a split second of it trying to continue to move.

IanJohnson wrote:

Start with the extruder to the left again and then hit Home X and see if anything different happens.  It should hit the endstop, back up, and then touch it again.

Again, started from park, moved forward a little, then moved left 40mm.  Then pressed Home X.  It moved to the endstop, "bounced" a tiny bit, and then settled at the endstop, as it should.

IanJohnson wrote:

While you hold down the X endstop, it should move to the left but refuse to move right.

Moved left again, then used a pen to hold in the X endstop and hit the move right 50mm button.  It did move.

This all seems to be in keeping with the

#define ENDSTOPS_ONLY_FOR_HOMING // If defined the endstops will only be used for homing

setting.

However, it seems that the "park" button (and the G28 command that is in the custom g-code, maybe?) are not doing the same as "home", inasmuch as they're not honoring that setting.  Is there really a distinction between "park" and "home", in which there's three different endstop behaviors, one for normal movement, one for park, and one for home?  And is it possible that my firmware configuration used to honor endstops for both home and park, but now only honor them for home?  Or is Park really just asking RH to move from where it thinks it is to where it thinks park should be, same as the manual move buttons, and thus vulnerable to when RH is out of synch with real positions, where Home uses endstops and doesn't assume anything about real versus RH position?

In both cases, it seems more likely that it's just that I don't have the RH and firmware settings for where I should have 200s, 205s, or 209s for the max locations all correct where they should be; and in the past, RH was always stopping the Park command and G28 before the grinding, and isn't now just because it thinks the head can go farther than it can.

24

Re: Park, home, and Y axis skip problems after E3D install

lawsy wrote:

Otherwise, the best way to check on end stops are to enter

// M119 - Output Endstop status to serial port

in the RH manual commands box. Setting up the correct enstops for Ramps was a nightmare because it allows for six, but this made it better.

Basically, enter M119 with the printer away from the end stops. You should see this in the log:

11:10:24.681 : Reporting endstop status
11:10:24.686 : x_min: TRIGGERED
11:10:24.686 : x_max: open
11:10:24.686 : y_min: TRIGGERED
11:10:24.686 : y_max: open
11:10:24.686 : z_min: open
11:10:24.686 : z_max: TRIGGERED

Head away from both endstops, and this is what I saw:

17:51:46.640 : Reporting endstop status
17:51:46.640 : x_max: open
17:51:46.640 : y_max: open
17:51:46.640 : z_min: open

No TRIGGERED lines.

lawsy wrote:

Hold the endstop manually for one at a time and enter M119 to check the end stops are acknowledged by the printer. For instance, when I hold the z axis stop the M119 message is:

11:12:19.259 : Reporting endstop status
11:12:19.264 : x_min: TRIGGERED
11:12:19.264 : x_max: open
11:12:19.264 : y_min: TRIGGERED
11:12:19.264 : y_max: open
11:12:19.264 : z_min: TRIGGERED
11:12:19.264 : z_max: TRIGGERED

With the X endstop held in I see:

17:53:26.239 : Reporting endstop status
17:53:26.239 : x_max: TRIGGERED
17:53:26.239 : y_max: open
17:53:26.239 : z_min: open

With the Y endstop held in I see:

17:54:14.414 : Reporting endstop status
17:54:14.414 : x_max: open
17:54:14.415 : y_max: TRIGGERED
17:54:14.415 : z_min: open

And with the Z endstop held in I see:

17:54:51.854 : Reporting endstop status
17:54:51.854 : x_max: open
17:54:51.854 : y_max: open
17:54:51.854 : z_min: TRIGGERED

So endstops all seem to be working.

lawsy wrote:

If all three register correctly, the next thing I would do is move the carriages a long way away from the stops, start the homing process but push the end stop switch manually with your finger to make the process stop.

If it does, then you must have an obstruction somewhere. I know the y stop is easily prevented from stopping sometimes because there is only a small gap between the rear of the extruder fan and the z axis screw. In the past it's ground for me if the wiring loom was wedged in between the extruder fan and the z rods (part of the reason I made the cable chain).

If I move the head away from the endstops, press Home X, and press the X endstop with a pen, the head does stop.

If I move the head away from the endstops, press Park, and press the X endstop with a pen, the head does not stop.

If I move the head away from the endstops, enter G28, and press the X endstop with a pen, the head does stop.

25 (edited by Hunter Green 2013-09-27 22:16:00)

Re: Park, home, and Y axis skip problems after E3D install

Hazer wrote:

http://wiki.solidoodle.com/multimeter-testing

and

http://www.solidoodle.com/how-to-2/trou … /#steppers

Vref refers to adjusting the stepper drivers. You added some weight to your hotend assembly, your driver may not be adjusted to handle the extra weight, and may overheat because of it.

Now that really seems like it could make sense.  (And it seems like it suggests the park/home problem and the skip problem really might be totally unrelated -- the former because of RH and firmware disagreeing about my max locations, the latter because of the extra weight.)

I'll admit I'm pretty anxious about all the warnings that are referred to in these directions.  I am not a young lad anymore and my hands aren't as steady as I'd like them to be.  I also don't readily have a second person I can get to hold things to help handle the three-hands problem.  Are the potentiometers too stiff to be turned by a plastic-tipped screwdriver?

(Now I'm wondering if those potentiometers have always been off, and that's why I had this problem when the printer was new and have always had to work around it with a Z-lift, and the extra weight just means the existing problem is now so bad that the pausing and such the Z-lift cause no longer prevent it, and if I can figure out a way to do this, I can even get rid of my Z-lift setting.)