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Topic: PLA how to make the infill nicer

I have been trying to print with PLA, but the infill is bad quality any advice?

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Re: PLA how to make the infill nicer

Temp looks way too hot.

Thermistor reads temp 30c lower than actual due to placement.

You may need to lower temp 30c or more.

Use gcode m302 to disable cold extrusion prevention if necessary.

3 (edited by innovate 2013-09-21 04:30:26)

Re: PLA how to make the infill nicer

I'm going to try printing at 160 c you know the funny thing is that my most successful print was at 205 ahahahah what temp do you usually print pla? do you think I have cheap filament because I have had no luck with this filament.

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Re: PLA how to make the infill nicer

I printed sainsmart tardis blue at 145c, just pla purple @ 152c.

It took me a while to land at those temps, including several clogs.  But I did have some decent prints around 180-190.  I'm sure those would have been as good or better cooler.

At the moment I'm printing Zen toolworks silver @ 195 on an E3D hotend where the thermistor is placed in the heat core.  Comparatively, this zen fillament needs more heat than the others on the same hotend.

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Re: PLA how to make the infill nicer

no luck at 160 c the filament tangled I'm going to try at 153 c. Did you end up buying new connectors for the e3d hotend or did you recycle the connectors from the old hot end? I just received my e3d hotend. Also did you have any problems with moire after the install?

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Re: PLA how to make the infill nicer

If you're not already doing this, try extruding in the back right corner to check for consistency before printing a job.

The brief history of how I ended up with an E3D connected to a RAMPS/Mega combo is that I melted my original PEEK by clearing clogs with the thermistor disconnected (live and learn).  I also I shorted my Sanguino board by allowing the thermistor wires to cross after putting the hotend back together one too many times (PTFE slid down over time).  And in the course of inspecting it afterwards, one of my power resistor wires broke off.

So yes, I did recycle my original hotend connectors, but by then I had no reason not to.

I did have moire problems after moving to the E3D and have an SD8825 stepper driver installed with the VREF turned way down.  That solved the problem.

When printing PLA on the stock hotend there was always a multi-second delay from when the extruder motor started feeding filament, until it came out of the nozzle (even at a high feed rate); not so with the E3D.

FWIW Y shift was introduced when I moved to RAMPS, but lawsy's fan mount with an 80mm fan solved that problem.

7 (edited by innovate 2013-09-21 06:19:18)

Re: PLA how to make the infill nicer

Yes, I have been checking for consistency everything is fine but after 10 min of printing the filament tangles. I have my ramps and arduino mega too I just need to install it. Did you have to buy any extra cables for the ramps? thanks for the advice 3d-oodler I appreciate it.

8 (edited by 3d-oodler 2013-09-21 06:46:27)

Re: PLA how to make the infill nicer

I wonder if you have a partial clog, or perhaps the temp is too low now?

For RAMPS I needed to extend 1 endstop cable and replace the connectors on all 3 endstops.  After looking at some local shops for proper connectors, I gave up and used a CD-ROM Audio cable for extension and reused the pins and connectors from another CD-ROM Audio cable the other 2 endstops.

http://www.surplusgizmos.com/CD-ROM-CDR … _1797.html

I connected the extruder fan to the E1 power source with a 2-Pin 2.54 pitch 90-degree Locking Header.

I soldered the wires to the connector pins, then heatshrink.

I also picked up a 12v5amp power supply from Goodwill for $5 and use that in combination with the 12amp that came with my SD3.

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Re: PLA how to make the infill nicer

I think that I did have a partial clogg. I took off the peak and the peek was clogged hopefully that will fix the problem. How where you able to use both power supplys?

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Re: PLA how to make the infill nicer

RAMPS has two power inputs and both need to be used.