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SoliForum - 3D Printing Community → Help/Repair/Maintenance → base model does not have heated print bed, so will it print?
We bought the base model, which has the acrylic print bed. The sites says that it prints right out of the box, but it does not stick, I get strings and blobs. In looking through these posts and help files, they all talk about heated print beds and temperatures, but that part is not included on the base model, so does that mean the base model does not have all parts needed to print?
It prints PLA, provided you use blue printer's tape. Not a chance with ABS.
I am still using the filiment that came with the printer. what do you mean by blue printers tape?
Hmmm I assume the filiment that was included was ABS as that is they only kind sold here.
I am still using the filiment that came with the printer. what do you mean by blue printers tape?
Painters tape blue 3m available almost everywhere
there are two issues here, one is... first layer not sticking.. second issue is... warping lift off prints.
it sounds like you have "first layer not sticking" issue.
i have basic model too... and i have to calibrate the bed upon arrival(paper thickness test) Althought, it sticks to the acrylic bed, but it will not get pass 10 layers because of warping. that is why i decided to heat up my bed..
before heated bed, i tried blue tape, kapton tape, kapton + hairspray, microwaved rice to warm up bed, hairdryer, personal heater...
personal heater worked the best... but still, it will warp eventually... I saw people using perf board without heated bed.. you might want to look into it.
What temperature are you printing at?
I print PLA on an unheated glass bed with blue painters tape just fine.
I registered just to share my 2c.
I received my base model Solidoodle 2 yesterday and printing on it right now. For starters, blue painters tape works better to sick to instead of the acrylic bed. There is crazy warping with ABS, but I have done my best to keep it to a minimum. I use a brim on the prints to give the prints more surface to stick to and reduce warping. Take time to make sure that your bed is leveled correctly because an uneven surface makes it warp even more. During printing, I put a cardboard box over my printer (so ghetto) to keep it warm and stop it from cooling too quickly from sources like the AC, open window, or me breathing on it because I like to watch it. I haven't tried PLA because Solidoodle only sells ABS, but I think it would work better on a non-heated bed.
I registered just to share my 2c.
I received my base model Solidoodle 2 yesterday and printing on it right now. For starters, blue painters tape works better to sick to instead of the acrylic bed. There is crazy warping with ABS, but I have done my best to keep it to a minimum. I use a brim on the prints to give the prints more surface to stick to and reduce warping. Take time to make sure that your bed is leveled correctly because an uneven surface makes it warp even more. During printing, I put a cardboard box over my printer (so ghetto) to keep it warm and stop it from cooling too quickly from sources like the AC, open window, or me breathing on it because I like to watch it. I haven't tried PLA because Solidoodle only sells ABS, but I think it would work better on a non-heated bed.
I put an acrylic case on mine so I can watch with out messing up my prints 
It's kinda like being a little kid again and being amazed by the microwave. (which, if you aren't supposed to stand in front of it and watch, why do they make the front out of glass?)
I believe the pro printers don't even use a heated bed because the heated build chamber is enough. If you enclose the printer and warm the inside with small space heater it would go a long way to making ABS work.
The space heater sounds like a promising idea but how are you suppose to set it up so that it doesn't blow directly on the prints?
I believe the pro printers don't even use a heated bed because the heated build chamber is enough.
I can confirm this.
The space heater sounds like a promising idea but how are you suppose to set it up so that it doesn't blow directly on the prints?
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:34754
You don't have to do the whole laser cut acrylic thing, but you can cut and drill holes to match the 80mm fan opening and attach the mount for the duct and the deflector. It should blow the air down into the bottom of the case rather than across the bed.
I registered just to share my 2c.
I received my base model Solidoodle 2 yesterday and printing on it right now. For starters, blue painters tape works better to sick to instead of the acrylic bed. There is crazy warping with ABS, but I have done my best to keep it to a minimum. I use a brim on the prints to give the prints more surface to stick to and reduce warping. Take time to make sure that your bed is leveled correctly because an uneven surface makes it warp even more. During printing, I put a cardboard box over my printer (so ghetto) to keep it warm and stop it from cooling too quickly from sources like the AC, open window, or me breathing on it because I like to watch it. I haven't tried PLA because Solidoodle only sells ABS, but I think it would work better on a non-heated bed.
Very nice points! I forgot to mention brim.
and also i would like to add Z-lift while traveling, it will reduce vibration between printed object and printer head... and more vibration means... things come off easier.
SoliForum - 3D Printing Community → Help/Repair/Maintenance → base model does not have heated print bed, so will it print?
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