I got my replacement board and it solved the problem. I can communicate and print as it should.
An added bonus is I got the new SD3 motherboard and they included the power supply necessary to interface with it. The new SD3 mother board has a barrel plug so I would have needed to solder one on the old one but to my surprise it came with it.
The new board seems to print much better than my old board. I used to have weird hour glassing when printing circles columns where the circle would be fine at the bottom and the top but the radius would reduce in the middle but only on the back side. This would lead to the front facing side being nice and the back looking like an hour glass. I did adjust the belts but that never fixed the problem.
The new board also seems to allow the heated bed to reach a higher temperature. The old board would cap the bed at 85 without an enclosure and with an enclosure I could only get it to high 90s. The new board I can easily get it to 110 and it will PWM to keep it there. (Basically it is not pegged at 100% duty cycle because it can not hit the target temp).
The new board seems to work really well thus far. The only complaint I have is they will not provide the schematic. I am a bit concerned that the extruder fan half ass runs while the 12V is off meaning it has 5V on it from the USB. I would really like them to fix that leakage path as things which are on the 12V rail should not have 5V on them. They likely have an esd diode conduction path that they did not protect from allowing to conduct. This could end up in the board latching up when 12V power is applied but I would need to evaluate the schematic. Who knows maybe they have a real diode to feed the 12V rail with 5V from the USB but I doubt that.
The last little thing is the new SD3 mother board needs different mechanical holes than the original one so they include printed adapters. Im not sure why they did not make sure the holes were in the same place but it is what it is.