1 Topic by aed

  • aed
  • Member
  • Offline
  • Registered: 2013-01-16
  • Posts: 21

Topic: Solidoodle 3 bed leveling/z-axis

This has been driving me crazy for two days now so any help is appreciated smile I seem to be unable to get the bed level and z-axis right on the SD3 (my SD2 is fine though).

I get the bed level screws adjusted so a credit card fits exactly at all corners, then I attempt to print the spool holder (and/or other items) and modify the z-axis screw until it "looks good". The prints keep coming out uneven with parts where no filament comes down and parts where it comes down but doesn't stick (and parts where it's OK). On my SD2 I do this a couple of times and tweak the screws and then it works.

What got me the closest was:
1- Start the print
2- While printing tighten screws where plastic is unable to come out.
3- While printing loosen screws where plastic isn't sticking or coming out from too high.
4- Clean out filament and repeat.

But for some reason on the SD3 I get the feeling that the bed as a whole isn't really staying in its last position. At some point I managed to complete a spool holder successfully but the very next print was completely messed up again. One small thing I noticed is that pushing up on the bed or left/right will cause it to slightly move (though it seems to recoil back somewhat) and not stay stationary. Could that be an issue?

Is there some work-around for this?

Thanks!

2 Reply by 2n2r5

  • 2n2r5
  • 2n2r5
  • Member
  • Offline
  • From: Frederick, MD
  • Registered: 2013-05-09
  • Posts: 1,208

Re: Solidoodle 3 bed leveling/z-axis

I just posted this else where but ... It looks like it applies here too. :-)

I actually use my trusty steel pocket ruler which I measured to be ~.74 mm. Any flat metal object will work if you have a way of measuring it.

    tighten all my leveling screws a couple turns

    bring bed to home position

    set bed to .8mm

    move extruder near back middle screw

    place my ruler flat between the extruder and the bed

    loosen the back leveling until the ruler barely touches the extruder

    tighten 1/8 turn then remove ruler

    repeat this process for the other 2 leveling screws

    After you finish the last then double check to make sure the others are still good

The metal ruler makes sure that I get consistent results. You don't really need to tighten the 1/8th of a turn, in fact, if you leave it .05-.1 mm high it will help flatten that first layer and give you good adhesion on your bed. You can use anything you want as a "feeler gauge". You just need to make sure you measure it and set your height according to the size of your gauge.

SD3 w/ mods:
Glass bed with QU-BD heat pad upgrade, threadless ballscrew w/ 8mm smooth rod, spectra line belt replacement, lawsy MK5 extruder, Lawsy replacement carriage, E3D hotend, Ramps 1.4 w/ reprap discount controller, DRV8825 drivers, 12v 30A PS, Acrylic case, Overkill Y-idlers, Filament alarm, Extruder fan + more.

2n2r5's Website

3 Reply by aed

  • aed
  • Member
  • Offline
  • Registered: 2013-01-16
  • Posts: 21

Re: Solidoodle 3 bed leveling/z-axis

Thanks - I followed your method and then reduced print speed for layer 1 to 20% and that helped complete the first layer. The problem is that after a couple of layers it looked like the bed was off balance again. I tried a brand new print right after that and it was no longer level.

Is there some part of the machine that I should be tightening? Is it normal for the bed to wiggle around so much?

4 Reply by 2n2r5

  • 2n2r5
  • 2n2r5
  • Member
  • Offline
  • From: Frederick, MD
  • Registered: 2013-05-09
  • Posts: 1,208

Re: Solidoodle 3 bed leveling/z-axis

do you have any other mods installed?

SD3 w/ mods:
Glass bed with QU-BD heat pad upgrade, threadless ballscrew w/ 8mm smooth rod, spectra line belt replacement, lawsy MK5 extruder, Lawsy replacement carriage, E3D hotend, Ramps 1.4 w/ reprap discount controller, DRV8825 drivers, 12v 30A PS, Acrylic case, Overkill Y-idlers, Filament alarm, Extruder fan + more.

2n2r5's Website