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SoliForum - 3D Printing Community → Hacks & Mods → Glass Beds, Sand them or no, Heat or not?
I tried some undiluted glue left on over night to dry on a smooth glass bed. The ABS started peeling almost as soon as it was put down. I couldn't get a solid first layer. Next I'm going to try Elmers clear school glue and some hairspray. But I'm wondering if I should sand or etch the glass first. I would like to run without heating the print bed if I could as that would speed up my set up time and I think would solve my warping problem.
Someone has tried sanding and etching already. Keep it heated to combat warping, I don't remember if you're already enclosed or not? Enclosing the build environment helps a great deal.
I have the standard SD2 enclosure but I've been running with it off because I've been having problems with the filament breaking or pulling too much if I run it through the back. Somewhere I might have enough plexi sheets at home to cover the sides. I will have to figure out something for the top though. I am currently feeding almost straight down from a spool holder I built out of MicroRax sitting on top of the SD2. Oh, and also I don't currently have a fan mounted on the extruder. I'm using the Lawsy MK4 extruder. I haven't modified the board to power a fan yet.
this thing is very usefull thing:85707 you might find it handy. I use my glass covered bed at 100* with hairspray I have an enclosure and print with a brim I still have slight warping. I think its something everyone has trouble with
this thing is very usefull thing:85707 you might find it handy. I use my glass covered bed at 100* with hairspray I have an enclosure and print with a brim I still have slight warping. I think its something everyone has trouble with
I'm quite partial to this one http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:38222
but I would say step one is enclose the build environment, it may sort you out right away.
You can do it on the cheap like I did
http://www.soliforum.com/topic/1306/cus … osure-mod/
Just an FYI for everybody. This weekend I started experimenting with glass plates and no heat on the bed. ABS bright yellow, Extruder run at 180 C and 20mm/s for first layer on all tests.
Tried a scotch tape branded liquid glue with a sponge type applicator that I got at Walmart. The ABS stuck just long enough to make half of the skirt then peeled up.
Then I tried Homemade ABS slurry. I didn't really measure my ratio of ABS to Acetone. I basically kept adding ABS to a small covered glass bowl of acetone until it was near the consistancy of elmers school glue. Coated the whole surface of the glass. This worked but I had some concerns about it working with larger objects or multiples.
Then I covered the surface of the glass with blue painters tape then put the ABS slurry over that. This system worked best of all. I got two almost perfect prints out with NO warping. The almost is because the mini maltese falcon skipped a step toward the last eighth of the print and the head is offset. I think it skipped a step due to tension on the filament feeding in, not due to anything with the build platform.
A friend of mine etched a glass plate for me. It's a very shallow etch though, just enough to make the glass cloudy. It still feels smooth to the touch. I am going to try ABS slurry straight on the glass on this one and see if I get better adhesion than the regular glass and ABS.
I also want to try blue tape on glass with Zip Kicker and thin type Super Glue. There is a guy named Werner Berry that made a delta printer that uses this technique. He puts down blue tape on glass. Then spreads Zip Kicker (an accelerator for glue) on the tape. Then he starts printing and squirts thin superglue at the edges of the skirt.
if you really insist on not using heated bed at all... you might want to take a look at perf board.
SoliForum - 3D Printing Community → Hacks & Mods → Glass Beds, Sand them or no, Heat or not?
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