You are not logged in. Please login or register.
SoliForum - 3D Printing Community → Help/Repair/Maintenance → Weird behavior
Is there some kind of hard coded temperature limit in the solidoodle's bed temp?
Every time I try to bump it over 110C it goes crazy. I get errors like 'MAXTEMP' and USE M999 TO TRIGGER RESET and that sort of thing in the repetier host logs. I have a ceramic tile bed and I'm just trying to heat it up a bit more to get better adhesion.
Whenever I get this error I have to shut the printer off, unplug it, and let it cool slightly, and then reboot it and then it works.
110C is the default safety shutoff as defined in the firmware. You can change the firmware to raise the limit. You will have to do some searching to figure that part out. :-)
Oh, okay. Good to know! I was worried that I blew something up. Thank you.
Oh, okay. Good to know! I was worried that I blew something up. Thank you.
You will though if you try and push the stock bed past 100°C... it is not rated to cope with that. And you shouldn't need it either... even printing Polycarbonate you dont need to go past 100°C .... and on the newer SD beds, it will end up causing your bed to run @ 100% duty cycle, and lead to premature death - its not really designed to run with a 100% duty cycle, but since its not particularly capable of achieving anything more than 90°C, setting it any higher will leave it 'on' all the time.. where as at 85-90°C it *should* end up with about a 60-70% duty cycle...
And going higher temps will actually cause *worse* warping and delamination.. you invariably actually want to go down in temp to get a more consistent uniform temp, as jacking the temp up will cause larger deltas across the surface as the underpowered stock bed tries to achieve what you asked of it 
ITman496 wrote:Oh, okay. Good to know! I was worried that I blew something up. Thank you.
You will though if you try and push the stock bed past 100°C... it is not rated to cope with that. And you shouldn't need it either... even printing Polycarbonate you dont need to go past 100°C .... and on the newer SD beds, it will end up causing your bed to run @ 100% duty cycle, and lead to premature death - its not really designed to run with a 100% duty cycle, but since its not particularly capable of achieving anything more than 90°C, setting it any higher will leave it 'on' all the time.. where as at 85-90°C it *should* end up with about a 60-70% duty cycle...
And going higher temps will actually cause *worse* warping and delamination.. you invariably actually want to go down in temp to get a more consistent uniform temp, as jacking the temp up will cause larger deltas across the surface as the underpowered stock bed tries to achieve what you asked of it
Great post Adrian - you're a big help here.
Oh, okay. I'll not do that, then. I've been struggling with parts warping so I've been trying everything to stop that, and just got to the 'crank the bed temp up' stage. I'll keep it under 100c.
though I will say that the stock bed has no problem reaching 110 and cycling at that. I can see the wave form for the temperature rippling up and down like it would with the extruder. That mean's it isn't staying on 100% of the time, right?
I have an enclosure, so that might be why.
Oh, okay. I'll not do that, then. I've been struggling with parts warping so I've been trying everything to stop that, and just got to the 'crank the bed temp up' stage. I'll keep it under 100c.
though I will say that the stock bed has no problem reaching 110 and cycling at that. I can see the wave form for the temperature rippling up and down like it would with the extruder. That mean's it isn't staying on 100% of the time, right?
I have an enclosure, so that might be why.
110 is too much. Try 95. If it's not sticking at 95, the temperature is not not the problem.
" I've been struggling with parts warping so I've been trying everything to stop that,"
try a 5mm 'brim' and after the brim has been printed, dab the corners with acetone... effectively creating an acetone/ABS slurry at the corners.
@ITman496, so you have the original solidoodle heat bed, on top of that you clip a ceramic bed? if that is the case, you have heat transfer issue. your ceramic bed might be hot to the touch, but not hot enough... ceramic doesn't transfer heat that well. i heat my ceramic directly and have my sensor measuring ceramic tile directly. so this way it's more accurate. right now you are measuring the aluminum bed, so the temp differences might be the cause...
or another possibility, what's your extruder temp?
I usually extrude at 215c.
Also I added a 7mm brim and have had great results with parts in the center that are less then 2in square.
As in I lifted the printer off of the ground trying to pull the part off.
Also any advice for getting more heat to the bed?
Also, advice for getting parts to stick better near the edges?
what about with the "new" printrboards we ever get the info needed to mod the firmware? its been at least a few months now....
I don't like being locked out of my house
True, I have no idea how to get in there to mod it if I need to, though I heard someone say that its possible, I think.
I need to measure the temp of my bed and see what it's really at, at some point.
RavensCrest, in the pictures of your heated bed, I can't see where you put your temp sensor?
SoliForum - 3D Printing Community → Help/Repair/Maintenance → Weird behavior
Powered by PunBB, supported by Informer Technologies, Inc.
