Trouble Calibrating

Could still be your y belts.  I tune mine by ear.  Just make them as equal sounding as you can.

I went through that same exercise and it worked for me.  The first thing I seem to recall doing was a calibration cube to get wall thickness correct.  So I ended up adjusting flowrate *way* down (to around .8, if I recall) after doing the extrusion length calibration.

Then I iterated to get x and y dialed in.  The nickel still ended up being a real tight fit, but at that point I said "close enough ..."

@skyblue : By "sound", I'm guess the belts are tight enough so that when they are flicked they make a similar sound??

I think recorrect the adjusted values is the way to go, as (I think) you are measuring differences based off of those numbers.  I seem to recall "zeroing in" on the numbers I needed to get the nickel to fit, albeit tightly.

I don't have my belts tightened anywhere near that tight, it seems.  At the moment, I'm still using the OEM x and y carriages.  I just received my E3D hotend the other day and will print out lawsy's MK5, as well as other parts.  I'm debating whether or not to break my rule of making incremental changes and recalibrating, or just doing all the mods at once and then figuring it out.  My head tells me the former approach makes sense.  My gut tells me the latter would be much more fun ...

I found that even though I had my extrusion dialed in quite well using the straw method I still needed to tweak it a bit to get the nickle calibration to work. I did this a couple days ago and it took 7 prints to get it dialed in, but was nice to finally have the nickle fall into the hole

Edit: 7 prints total, only 3 or so to dial in the extruder multiplier.

I don't think I am...that would appear in my gcode after slicing?