1 Topic by Skyman25

  • Skyman25
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  • Registered: 2013-06-24
  • Posts: 4

Topic: No sticky

I have an acrylic bed with no heat on my SD2.  I tried Salon Grafix Superhold finishing mist hairspray, not aquanet, and that didn't stick to anything.  I put in blue painter's tape, and again, nothing.  Sooooooooooo,

1.  Should I go get the correct hairspray?
2.  Should I buy some Kapton tape from Amazon? 
3.  And what kind?  There are several different ones.
4.  Should I buy some glass from Home Depot?  Will they cut it to my size?

It seems that I should:  Clean with acetone first and try each of the following:

1.  try the acrylic platform with Aquanet spray.
2.  try the acrylic platform with blue tape (I already have it) and Aquanet spray.
3.  try the acrylic platform with blue tape (I already have it) and Aquanet spray and the 3-4 mm brim.
4.  try the glass platform, no heat, and start over at number  1.
5.  try the glass platform, with heat, and start over at number  1.

Or just wing it.

enclose the top and sides
heated glass platform, borosilicate?
clean with acetone
3-4 brim
hairspray

Hop one one foot and hit the print button.

2 Reply by 2n2r5

  • 2n2r5
  • 2n2r5
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  • Registered: 2013-05-09
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Re: No sticky

yes (blanket answer to a question with many answers) Try them all and figure out what works best for you. It's a question that has been asked many times before and has a 100 answers.

SD3 w/ mods:
Glass bed with QU-BD heat pad upgrade, threadless ballscrew w/ 8mm smooth rod, spectra line belt replacement, lawsy MK5 extruder, Lawsy replacement carriage, E3D hotend, Ramps 1.4 w/ reprap discount controller, DRV8825 drivers, 12v 30A PS, Acrylic case, Overkill Y-idlers, Filament alarm, Extruder fan + more.

2n2r5's Website

3 Reply by ronsii

  • ronsii
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  • Registered: 2012-10-28
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Re: No sticky

If you are trying to print with PLA all you should need is blue painters (masking) tape as this is what I use on several different printers it can be a little tricky getting the right first layer height but not impossible smile

If on the other hand you are trying ABS with no heat on the bed.... well that is a different story as heat helps ABS a lot smile however the glass and aquanet spray seems to work for a lot of people otherwise I would go for the ABS glue mix slurried on the bed as ABS likes to stick to itself the best smile

4 Reply by Skyman25

  • Skyman25
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Re: No sticky

I just bought some 6 x 6 glass and some Aquanet.  No heat for the bed.  I'll try without it.

5 Reply by RavensCrest

  • RavensCrest
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  • Registered: 2013-01-12
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Re: No sticky

when i was still in my acrylic bed  era.. I used heat gun/hair dryer to preheat acrylic bed... and print. I was able to get to 10 layers before it starts to warp. fun and sad era....

http://solidoodletips.wordpress.com/201 … st-layers/
slow down first layer, extrude more abs, and bigger brim(greater than 3mm)
and ACETONE MELTS ACRYLIC!! unless you want to create rough surface on purpose with acetone and sanding.

TO upgrade or NOT to upgrade..
heat bed upgrade will require powersupply upgrade and heated bed. follow my guide if you want to create a ceramic heat bed. highly recommended
if you dont' want to upgrade to heated bed... buy perf board from electronic... the holes actually holds ABS down.

Solidoodle2 with Ceramic tile heated bed http://www.soliforum.com/topic/2544/my- … eated-bed/
"1kg should last for an while" is a lie!

6 Reply by dkeeling728

  • dkeeling728
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  • Registered: 2013-05-20
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Re: No sticky

PLA on hairsprayed glass works great. i can get prints of any size on my sd3 to stick with the heated bed turned off. and the enclosure on.

try putting something around the printer to act as an enclosure, as all the steppers and the hot end etc will bring the ambient internal temp up a bit, may help. heatgun/blow dryer on the bed immediatly before you hit run with a preheated extruder could help too.

wouldn't hesitate to upgrade to a heated bed though. can get a nice powersupply on amazon for 30 bucks or so (get one of the metal enclosure ones, the laptop brick that comes with the SD is a cheap joke. lol) and a heated bed from several sources. that is if your brainboard has headers already in the right spot to plug in a heated bed and thermsistor to give you software control of it. if not, it could turn into a rather involved electronics and programming task. lol