1 (edited by mark.burhop 2013-05-28 04:24:18)

Topic: yet another adhesion question

I'm visiting my son who had an older (1 year old Solidoodle 2).  He is having trouble getting his parts from warping off the platform.

He was working with blue PLA extruding at 195 and 50 on the bed. Parts started coming off the bed about layer 5-100.

I changed the Z axis adjusting it down and changing the Temps to 180 and 80.  With the new Z, it printed a flat extrusion on the first lay but still came off about layer 8 (in the middle, not at the corners like from warping).  I stopped the print, and the part came off very easily.

I adjusted the Z axis another 1/2 turn.  This is maybe too much as it was scraping plastic to the sides of the model and pulled part of the model off the bed after about 3 layers.

It is the original bed and has seen some use.  Do they get slicker with age?

We've tried hairspray with not much luck.  What do you all recommend trying next?

SD2, glass bed, MK5 setup with E3D lite extruder
NX and Solid Edge CAD user
PI, Galileo, and arduino hacker
Code Monkey and Twitter user @burhop

2

Re: yet another adhesion question

have you tried a good old fashion cleaning with glass cleaner? Then reapply hairspray.

SD3 w/ mods:
Glass bed with QU-BD heat pad upgrade, threadless ballscrew w/ 8mm smooth rod, spectra line belt replacement, lawsy MK5 extruder, Lawsy replacement carriage, E3D hotend, Ramps 1.4 w/ reprap discount controller, DRV8825 drivers, 12v 30A PS, Acrylic case, Overkill Y-idlers, Filament alarm, Extruder fan + more.

3

Re: yet another adhesion question

2n2r5, yes,, tried glass cleaner first thing (should have mentioned this).  Son said he heard acetone has been used but we haven't tried this. Worth trying?

SD2, glass bed, MK5 setup with E3D lite extruder
NX and Solid Edge CAD user
PI, Galileo, and arduino hacker
Code Monkey and Twitter user @burhop

4

Re: yet another adhesion question

yea, that seems to give people really good results... I think a lot of people mix it with failed prints to make a glue then smear a light layer on the glass.

SD3 w/ mods:
Glass bed with QU-BD heat pad upgrade, threadless ballscrew w/ 8mm smooth rod, spectra line belt replacement, lawsy MK5 extruder, Lawsy replacement carriage, E3D hotend, Ramps 1.4 w/ reprap discount controller, DRV8825 drivers, 12v 30A PS, Acrylic case, Overkill Y-idlers, Filament alarm, Extruder fan + more.

5

Re: yet another adhesion question

Most people who print with PLA use blue painters tape and no heat, so give that a try.   PLA doesn't stick as well to Kapton, and heat is required, but not too much.  More heat may cause warping, and not enough may not stick.  If you want to keep using Kapton try 10C hotter and cooler, but I would recommend giving the blue tape a try first.

6 (edited by mark.burhop 2013-05-29 05:08:22)

Re: yet another adhesion question

I hate to go the printer tape way as I'm printing find on my Solidoodle. It seems my son's should too.

I did try the acetone.... no luck.  Here is what it looked like at 180/80 a few minutes ago. 


http://virtualvector.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/20130528-213911.jpg

Trying again with with 60 bed temp.

SD2, glass bed, MK5 setup with E3D lite extruder
NX and Solid Edge CAD user
PI, Galileo, and arduino hacker
Code Monkey and Twitter user @burhop

7 (edited by Leghk 2013-05-29 05:20:32)

Re: yet another adhesion question

The successes I've read about with PLA on bare glass were on borosilicate (Pyrex), this blog is an entertaining read about it along with an embedded video of Adrian Bowyer demonstrating his method.

[Edit: of course I re-read and realized that you're discussing PLA on kapton; never mind me!

big_smile]

Don: Folger Tech 2020 Kossel Rev A + Borosilicate + Snow Effector
        Davinci 1.0 + Repetier : Filastruder
        SD3 + RAMPS + Lawsy Carriages + E3D + Borosilicate + ... : Cupcake

8

Re: yet another adhesion question

When I do PLA:

No heat, room temp = ~ 65F

first layer @ 30mm/sec.

on blue painters tape, a piece of 20lb. paper for gap.

My prints do not come off easy nor do they come off by themselves.

9 (edited by mark.burhop 2013-05-30 01:23:00)

Re: yet another adhesion question

Leghk, good info.  This may be a future upgrade.

As for my problem, I lowered the temperature to 60C on the bed and it worked perfectly.  I was surprised by this. In fact, it was it was hard to get off the bed in the morning.

So, no painters tape needed for now but I wish I could say definitively what was done to make it start working. Maybe it is my healthy living.

SD2, glass bed, MK5 setup with E3D lite extruder
NX and Solid Edge CAD user
PI, Galileo, and arduino hacker
Code Monkey and Twitter user @burhop

10

Re: yet another adhesion question

mark.burhop wrote:

Leghk, good info.  This may be a future upgrade.

As for my problem, I lowered the temperature to 60C on the bed and it worked perfectly.  I was surprised by this. In fact, it was it was hard to get off the bed in the morning.

So, no painters tape needed for now but I wish I could say definitively what was done to make it start working. Maybe it is my healthy living.

I'm curious... what were you printing. I can't really tell from the photos.

SD3 w/ mods:
Glass bed with QU-BD heat pad upgrade, threadless ballscrew w/ 8mm smooth rod, spectra line belt replacement, lawsy MK5 extruder, Lawsy replacement carriage, E3D hotend, Ramps 1.4 w/ reprap discount controller, DRV8825 drivers, 12v 30A PS, Acrylic case, Overkill Y-idlers, Filament alarm, Extruder fan + more.