1 Topic by highc7691

  • highc7691
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Topic: Print Warping Issues

I have been having numerous problems with printing multiple objects and large objects, as they warp off the bed. I have tried raising the heat on the bed, cleaning the bed, spraying the bed with hairspray, re-leveling the bed(repeatedly), but I still cannot get this problem fixed. Does anyone have any solutions? I don't want to build a whole new bed using another material, but if anyone has any tips, or ways to prevent warping and not sticking that would be appreciated.

2 Reply by CrazyBear

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  • From: Orange County, CA
  • Registered: 2013-02-18
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Re: Print Warping Issues

Are you printing directly on the platform? If so, I would recommend you to search for the glass bed modification. Also applying acetone with ABS it helps a lot. One other thing is if you don't have a enclosure, just add some carboard walls to the printer to keep the head.

CB

3 Reply by highc7691

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Re: Print Warping Issues

I really don't want to make a glass bed modification as I have zero technical skills with that kind of thing, and limited amounts of material to create. I am printing onto Kapton. What exactly do you mean by applying acetone with abs?

4 Reply by mr_tim34

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Re: Print Warping Issues

It really takes no technical skills to do the glass bed. Go to a local hardware store and ask for a 8 X 8 piece of single pane window glass. Stop at the drug store and buy a can of hairspray, I use unscented Aqua Net. Stop by an office supply store if necessary to obtain two small binder clips. Clean the glass, spray with the Aqua Net and clip to the bed. Home the print head in X and Y. Crank down the Z adjustment bolt as far as it will go and home the Z. Translate slowly and see if your print head clears the glass. Mine did. The move the head over each adjustment point and level your bed. I've found cheap business cards are pretty close to .3mm, the fancy ones are closer to .4mm. Oh, one more thing, you need to be able to turn the level adjusters from the bottom of the bed. There are plenty of knobs you can print, but like the chicken and the egg, if you can't print, how will you adjust your level? I just bought 3 4MM wing nuts at the same hardware store I bought the glass at, put a drop of crazy glue on the thread and put one on each adjustment screw about 2 turns and waited for the crazy glue to set. It might sound complicated, but it's really not and it makes a huge difference. The only problem you might run into is if your Z adjusting screw is too short. The easiest fix for that is to remove it and take it to the hardware store and buy the next longest size. There are several prints for this as well that lowers the mounting point, but again if you can't print you won't be able to make one of these. My stock screw is fine with the single pain glass.
Good luck, and let me know how it works out for you.

TiM

PS None of the above modifications are permanent or undoable if it doesn't work out for you.

5 Reply by highc7691

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Re: Print Warping Issues

What does glass do that reduces warping? And would I put Kapton over the glass, or just leave it underneath the glass?

6 Reply by machinistjoe

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Re: Print Warping Issues

I will be doing this soon as well. The glass acts as a really flat surface for your prints, and it makes it easy to overcome any warpage issues with the stock build plate. AS far as the kapton tape goes, you can leave it on the heated al. plate as it is now, or you can take it off. I've seen both versions on here.

7 Reply by Shameless

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  • Registered: 2013-01-11
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Re: Print Warping Issues

How hot are you running your bed, and do you have an enclosure? I've found that the bigger the print the hotter I needed the bed to avoid warping. You could try increasing the flow rate on the first layer to try to get better adhesion, or using the brim feature. As someone equally uneducated in engineering though I can tell you using glass wasn't that hard of a switch, and noticeably more effective in having prints stay on.

8 Reply by nevrgonastopme00

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Re: Print Warping Issues

If it helps, I had TREMENDOUS luck with the glass bed mod.  I also ended up making the thumbscrews for the bottom of the bed screws and the drop/dial indicator mount to better level the bed.  Make sure if you do the glass mod that you have a flat metal surface, I had to further countersink my screws so the glass wasn't being stressed.  On the glass I have kaptop, rubbing it down with acetone after each print makes everything stick to it with no issues.

9 Reply by Krythis

  • Krythis
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Re: Print Warping Issues

+1 for glass, ABS acetone solution, and enclosure.

My local Home Depot doesn't cut glass anymore so I bought a $5 mirror from WalMart that is about 10*10. Removed the mirror from the frame and used binder clips. I need to cut it down so I can fit clips on the sides, but for now it's working very well. I started with cardboard on the sides of my case and loosely on top, worked wonders so I upgraded to acrylic. These two simple mods have a significant impact to adhesion and warping issues.

Also, if needed you can turn the leveling screws by hand if you have a good grip. Will at least help you get a decent print so you can print the thumbscrews.

E3D-v4 Hotend, MK5 carriage with round plastic wire conduit , 3/16" tempered glass,  Well nut, SureStepr SD8825 1/32 Extruder Driver, PowerEdge 2650 500W PS, QU-BD heated bed, circuit board fan, hinged plexiglass enclosure with plastic tray top. Other than that mostly stock SD3

10 Reply by davidzomec

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Re: Print Warping Issues

Hi there,

when you say glass bed, does it work with a piece of acrylic as well? I have a 5mm thick piece but I read that acrylic is better for PLA. I want to print ABS.

11 Reply by driggers

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Re: Print Warping Issues

I just did 1 day of mods to my solidoodle, and it was such a game changer!

1.  Glass bed:  I bought untempered 3mm glass (wanted 2mm) from a glass place.  Solves any warping issues.  Just get it exactly 6in x 6in (for SD2) and some small-medium binder clips to keep it in place.  $6 from a glass store, ready in 10 minutes.
2.  Bought Vidal Sassoon pressurized hair spray can $6 from walmart.  (take glass out to spray it).
3.  Made cardboard enclosure, with packing tape windows.  Top is a sort of raised pyramid with no top.  I put foam weather stripping on (10 feet does sides).  used small neodynium magnets for easy removal and placement.  One magnet taped to cardboard, one magnet stays on solidoodle's steel frame (for each contact point).  Cardboard is light, so only two magnets required for each panel.
4.  Printed these and super glued them onto bed leveling screws http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:38064 .  Now you can re-adjust the bed WHILE PRINTING!
5.  Printed this for feeding filament http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:31317 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:30047

bed temp 90, nozzle 200.  no warping, no peeling.  This has made a whole world of difference to me!

Additionally, you should print some spare parts while your printer is working. Next time you have to remove the jigsaw, you should have the replacement ready: e.g.
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:47561
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:36446
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:91399

SD2 Sanguinololu 1.3a atmega1284p, wood platform, lawsy's carriages, braided fishing line, pallet wood overhead spool mount, carboard/magnet enclosure, glass bed, E3D v6, bed levelling knobs, extended z-stop, 25A DC-DC SSR for bed heater, everything fixed to the SD2 frame, marlin firmware with some adjustments and extra failsafes enabled.  I'll never give up on you, little printer that could(n't)!