The Escape (Page 1 of 2)

thanks, you can see my beast here :

http://www.soliforum.com/post/22210/#p22210

i will made a special post with all the modification i made..

We love you YSB

Might be even cooler if you use concentric solid and fill on the mirror.

thanks all... someone on thingiverse suggest to use a real mirror ... i can stick the woman and the demon harm on it... and add led behind (i can remove the back paint of the mirror just under the parts, so the light will pass, but the mirror effect if still there from the other side...)...

still to find a proper size mirror...

hmmm....hummmmm ....

*warning... main system overheat*

If you acetone smoothed the model to get the mirror surface really glossy, maybe you could use artist's masking fluid painted over everything but the mirror, and then use spray chrome to get a mirror finish.

ysb, your surface quality in your print is always outstanding.

Care to share your slic3r ini or at least your retraction settings?

I've searched but can't find them (and am jealous of machinistjoe for finding them).

Now..I MUST learn how to wire LED's haha

@ lawsy

ok.. this is my slic3r 0.9.9 config.. for 0.2mm print

how i use it ?... i begin to print at 100% feedrate speed for the base of the model. When i begin to print tricky layer or layer that i want to be the 'finest, i switch to 50% of the feedrate speed (with the slider in Repetier-Host). sometimes i also change the flowrate to 95-98% when i slow down the print ( my nose tells me when i need that ..depending of the filament)

now, imo, the quality is more a problem of z move than a problem of slicer config...

i try different thing with horrible result. the best result is always with my original Z rod with the original ABS coupler.
i don't tight too much the 4 screws that capture the nuts (between the 2 wood part, top of the platform). you need to tighten them just enough to forbid a vertical move between the two plate, but let it free to move on a horizontal plane. if you tighten them too much, some wobble will appear on the print.

i also use the anti-backlash nut feature (nut with spring)...

i receive my anti backlash ball screw (http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Ball-screw-SFU1204-200mm-C7-with-ball-nut-and-end-machined-for-CNC-XYZ/659738830.html ) but 200mm is too short with the machined end of the screw... we need a 220-250mm and the nut of the ball screw is too big...

@Randavian

ok.. i will do a special post for that..

I tested out using a chrome spray earlier, and it works really well sprayed straight onto ABS. The art masking fluid doesn't work so well, unfortunately, as it tends to bead up initially, but possibly additional coats would produce an even mask.

I've just tried this on scrap ABS from a failed print, but I really want to try it on this model. I'm holding off until I get some white filament, as I think that looks fantastic just in simple white.

Congrats on getting featured on Thingiverse!

The Zortrax printer on Kickstarter http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/zor … r?ref=live  used Who Will be First as one of their sample prints.