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Topic: Nozzle drill bits

Here is a set of real small drill bits

http://www.ebay.com/itm/181096511308?ss … 1439.l2649

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Re: Nozzle drill bits

I bought a set of 10 .0135" drill bits, but I made the mistake of not reading it all and they were carbide, so they snap super easy.  It took me 6 to get one to go through.  They had 1/8 shank and there's a little screwdriver like chuck that you buy to slide them in and lock down.  If they were just steel it'd be better but the concept should work.  I wouldn't buy this set since you'll only really need one of them, and you're likely to break it fairly quick.

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Re: Nozzle drill bits

Where did you get the 10 .0135 bits?

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Re: Nozzle drill bits

Bits were from this guy (make sure not to buy carbide)
http://stores.ebay.com/BitGuy1?_trksid=p2047675.l2563

Swivel head pin vise (chuck)

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Re: Nozzle drill bits

I used jobber length Cobalt drills they are coated and are harder than HSS but not as brittle as carbide.
I use MSC DIRECT.
See link below

if you live in the states you will usually get the item next day

http://www.mscdirect.com/browse/Jobber- … drill+bits

Ultimaker S3.

6 (edited by adrian 2013-05-01 04:36:23)

Re: Nozzle drill bits

I don't drill nozzles often - I do a heap of PCB manufacture and PCB manufacture uses these drill bits a lot.

http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=TD2406 is a 20 piece set that has 0.3, 0.35, 0.4, 0.5 etc.

You will also find lots of these bits, including if you wanted to get serious, improved chucks from Precise Bits . A standard drill/dremel chuck has more than 0.035mm's of runout, meaning your 0.0.35mm hole can be much larger (0.04 etc) once drilled.  http://www.precisebits.com/.

If you are breaking carbide bits - you're chuck/collet has too much run out or you aren't drilling square to the face, as these bits are rock solid as long as you don't introduce lateral loads to them.. used in a press with a true collet with minimal runout, they work flawlessly for a long time ! smile They are the default 'go to' for PCB milling etc and for work with billeted aluminium - its all about using them correctly though as yes they suck at side-loading and are brittle.

If you are doing this more than once - don't underestimate the value of having a precision collet/chuck assembly. And drill bits are a bit like 3D printers... sure you can get $2 ones, and 'make do', but the bits will often break or blunt quickly (particularly if not cooled etc). Its often much better to get one $20 one than 10 $2 ones wink

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Re: Nozzle drill bits

I was drilling by hand with the item below, lateral load can't be avoided by hand so I was snapping them like crazy, then breaking them with the needle nose pliers as I tried to take them out.   Plus try finding the broken carbide tips on a hardwood floor. 

Swivel head pin vise (chuck)

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Re: Nozzle drill bits

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mirage flooring

9 (edited by grob 2014-10-14 06:23:15)

Re: Nozzle drill bits

dimaria wrote:

SD3. Mk2b + glass, heated enclosure, GT2 belts, direct drive y shaft, linear bearings, bowden-feed E3D v5 w/ 0.9° stepper
Smoothieboard via Octoprint on RPi

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Re: Nozzle drill bits

buy sets of Orifice number/letter bits from Gas service supply companys there are many to buy from but some only sell wholesale to customers that retail them or use them self like LP Gas companies which can get you some. the bits come single or in sets A-Z, 1-40, 41-80 and singles as small as pilot sizes 112 I have the 6 main pilot sizes as I worked in the LP/Nat gas appliance industry b4. numbers also called wire gauge by some.

Solidoodle 2 with Deluxe kit cover & glass bed with heater. and 2nd board SD2 used not 3rd and alum platform not installed yet still wood. also need cooling fan installed to board. use Repetier Host couple vers. Slic3r also have all free ware STL programs