Topic: Software tuning?
I printed the Daruma and am pleased with the results, but can see some obvious tuning needs to be done. My problem is I have no idea which settings need to be tweaked. Any and all feedback would be appreciated.
Thanks,
TiM
Re: Software tuning?
Looks like you need to up your filament temp.
Re: Software tuning?
Either that or up your perimeters... Since this is my model, this is what I'd recommend. The angles that were designed into it are somewhat sharp so it may require more perimeters to make it happen. either that or go with a 5% fill rate.
If I may ask, are you printing it at 100% scale? I had similar issues when doing so. Filling the interior seemed to help that in later prints. I also ran it at 50% which made for a smaller model, but it doesn't have to be big to be an effective desk model.
Re: Software tuning?
Yes, I printed it at 100% using the default SD3 profile. I was using Octave's purple filament, that looks rather pink to me. I'll try a little.more heat, this was printed @ 200C. I'll add some perimeters as well. I'm relatively new to 3D printing and am still working things out, but having plenty of fun while doing it.
TiM
Re: Software tuning?
I don't think it's the heat I think it's the perimeters. When you get to a severe slope like that there is no layer below to put the new filament on so it's printing in the air. If this gets fully enclosed at the end you'll likely need to enable infill to complete it.
The good news is that your printer doesn't appear to have bad z banding so you should be capable of some fine looking prints. Keep it up!
6 2013-04-04 19:08:14 (edited by cckens 2013-04-04 19:09:35)
Re: Software tuning?
cmetzel wrote:
The good news is that your printer doesn't appear to have bad z banding so you should be capable of some fine looking prints. Keep it up!
I noticed that too.
mr_tim34 wrote:
I was using Octave's purple filament, that looks rather pink to me. I'll try a little.more heat, this was printed @ 200C.
And it's not really pink, but more magenta... looks like they need to add more blue to get a strong true purple for the filament.
And I think the fill should correct some of the defects, but I still think that some of the "cracking" is due to enclosure heat rather than extruder heat. Get that unit enclosed if you haven't. A cardboard box would work in a pinch and keep ambient temps higher in the enclosure. May want to cut a slot to see the print and tape clear plastic wrap over it to see the build area.
I'm still down as I have to clear the jam I have in the extruder, but I may attempt this guy again to see if I can get it to print right with a 10% infill. The top layer is definitely an issue with no infill as it has to span the top and that means dropped threads. I may re-model with an empty column so you can drop a flickering LED into it, just to give it a cool effect.
Re: Software tuning?
I guess I'm a bit confused about the infill. Do you mean fill the entire inner area? Wouldn't that be a function of the .stl file? Be gentle, I'm new to this 3d printing stuff. This was printed on an enclosed printer with a bed temperature of 90. As for adding perimeters, should I increase the minimum number of perimeters in the vertical shells section? What about generating extra perimeters? Not to mention the # of solid layers under the horizontal shells section. I need to play around with these settings, a little input on which will have the greatest effect would be appreciated. I am having plenty of fun though.....
TiM
Re: Software tuning?
Infil is controlled by the slicer program. It is a filler between layers to add additional support or rigidity to the part. If you have a wall that is 20 mm thick, the slicer will not make it solid. It will create 3-4 layers, then leave a space then create the other side of the wall. 10% infill will add additional material between the two walls to fill the gaps. The same would hold true for a flat surface on the bottom of the print. There is a setting for top and bottom layer height. That number indicates how many layers are generated at the top of bottom. If the base of the item is 20mm, it would print five layers on the bottom, then add filler at the percentage chosen so that when it prints the upper layer it will allow the top layer some support to print the surface flatter.
SD2
E3D V6
MK5 V6
E3D V6
MK5 V6
Re: Software tuning?
Thanks, Gordy!
Yeah, generally unless modeled with specific hole in the model (and this one isn't) the model is one continuous watertight surface. The slicer program will allow you to fill the model with a series of lines (either linear or honeycomb) that "finish" the layer. This adds strength without doing a complete fill. It saves plastic too. However there are times when you would want 100% infill in order to make a really strong part.
Re: Software tuning?
I guess I'll need to go back and reprint. I was pretty sure I used the default SD profile for this, which is set for a 20% infill. I thought the part was drawn hollow. Maybe I did something different and didn't realize it. It's certainly possible. I need to figure out how to get the head to lift a little higher during moves. I keep getting drag marks across my flat surfaces after they've been printed.
TiM
Re: Software tuning?
Nope, it's just one single continuous surface. Drags can be a pain... you may want to check the Lift Z settings in the Printer Settings tab in Slic3r. That may help.
Re: Software tuning?
OK, I'd like to revisit this thread. I realize that I somehow selected to print this hollow without knowing how at the time. I've since learned a bit more about my printer. I saw this :
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:104734
and thought it would be perfect for my niece. I downloaded the second version with the support around the coin slot. I printer it last night with no infill (by choice this time) with 3 perimeters minimum, extra perimeters as needed and 3 top layers and 4 bottom layers. It was looking great about half way through when I went to sleep. In the morning this is what I found. What can I do to fix this? Up the perimeter count or do I have to dial something else in? The first 75% of this print looks amazing to me, then we get to the top 25% :-(
Thanks for any suggestions that you may have...
TiM
Re: Software tuning?
Well to be honest your printer tried really hard to print that. I'm actually impressed it did as good as it did. That is going to be a very hard peice to do hollow. At the very least the top of the nose and eyes will need support. I would up the perimeter count which might help as it looks like you only have two, but even with 4 or five perimeters that will be a hard peice to do hollow. If your machine is not enclosed you need to get it enclosed. It appears you might be suffering from shrinkage in the upper layers. I'm also wondering if perhaps you got a partial clog about the same time that the print went bad. You can see a latteral line on the side that looks as if the filament was clumping as it came out. You Z Axis however looks pretty good. Very little banding! Keep at it.
Re: Software tuning?
Oh almost forgot. One more thing that I do is scale down a difficult piece by %50 and sort issues when it is small. Don't know if that helps or not.