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Topic: Thermistor broken

Hi.

After 3 long month of wait for my SD3 I finally received it yesterday.

Very excited I used it an hour but I had to stop because I had an issue about the printing,

All the design I printed has to be interrupt because after a few layer, the item was moving with the extruder.

I couldn't finish any object after 10 differents try.

I decided to let it go until this morning. When I launch my printer I realise that the extruder couldn't push out the plastic. So I spent hours on forum to understand why, until I found someone explaining that I had to unmount my new extruder to fix it by myself !!!

I spent another 4 hours unmounting slowly my extruder but when I reassembled it Repetier didn't recognize the temperature sensor and show 3C or 357C on the extruder temperature. After another 2 hours I finally realisze that I broke the Thermistor when I unmount the extruder ...

I have to say that I'm really frustrated that I had to wait so long to receive a so complex machine with absolutely no instruction on how to start with it. Even on youtube it's not the company that do their own tutorial on how to calibrate or how to start the first printing ... That's sad.

You maybe think we are all designer and electronician but a lot of us are not and it's a real nightmare I just passed for my first day with your machine.

Now I just wanted to know if I could buy any thermistor of 100k or if I have to buy a special one. Of course I spent hours and hours to find a single reference on all your forum and wiki and of course there are absolutly no information available for this ... very professional.

I hope someone will answer me and explain me
1- why none of my print could finish
2- why my extruder was arleady block after one single use
3- Is there any other way to fix it without unmounting all the extruder
4 - Can you give us the reference with the exact property of this Thermistor so I can by an equivalent quickly

Thanks

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Re: Thermistor broken

ok,
when a print comes unstuck from the bed and starts wandering around attached to the print head then it's not sticking to the bed properly, (yay for captain obvious here!)

to increase the ability to stick to the bed you can try,
make sure that the bed height is correct,
Make sure that the bed is level. (level to the machine not level to the earth)
cleaning the kapton tape to ensure that there is no grease on it.
replacing the kapton tape
using hair spray to increase stick
printing a skirt or a brim so that there is more area in contact with the tape and more area to stick.



when you say you had to unmounted the extruder, I assume it was clogged and you needed to take the machine apart to fix it?


any ideas how you broke the thermistor? is it just a broken wire? or you broke it like you crushed t between the nozzle and the heater? broken wires could be soldered together. (or even just twisted together?


there are some basic instructions on solidoodles site about levelling the machine etc but on the whole the documentation is pretty poor... solidoodle do have instructional videos they aren't on you tube though they are somewhere else, (I've forgotten where and they don't link to them in an obvious way).



the extruder gets blocked for a number of reasons.
if you leave the heater on whilst not printing  you can burn plastic or denature it in some way so as to cause it to not melt properly and then not be able to extrude properly.
some people have found that plastic filament from some suppliers is just bad an contains rubbish stuff that's not even plastic in some stories.


the quickest way to fix it is to try poking a really thin wire (high E guitar string) through the nozzle from underneath.
as you may realise this just pokes whatever can't come out back into the machine ready to annoy you another day.

when the machine is hot, you can hold the black (peek) part of the nozzle with some pipe grips and undo the nozzle part on the end, (in fact this is easier when hot than separating them afterwards!!).

so the simple don't need to take you machine appart way of getting the nozzle off is...

Remove the thermistor from the nozzle (but leave it plugged in)
lower the Z platform so you can get your hands in.
turn the heater on,
wait for the heater to be hot. (wait about 2 minutes and turn it off, the feed back from the thermistor is useless since this will just be hanging in the air now!)
make sure the heater is off.
hold the barrel still by holding the peek (less chance of crushing the barrel)
undo the nozzle.

for part 4...

I believe that somewhere on these forums there is a part number.
or someone may know from what component value table is being used in the firmware what part number this relates to...

or you could try asking solidoodle directly.

(though whenever people have asked directly before they are told that it's a company secret.
-despite the fact that basically every part of the printer is based on GPL designs and in copying these designs solidoodle must have read the license and surely must realise that they must release their modified designs under the gpl license also!
(it's not a choice it's a requirement of the license).

Even if solidoodle didn't release the design, (and if they've never modified it, they wouldn't have to) they could at lease let us know what design they copied so that we could know the part numbers... (unless this is the company secret)!

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Re: Thermistor broken

Hi Danny

Thanks for your reply and your advice.

Concerning the bed, i was just wondering if it was a problem of settings of the printer or if it was something else. My Kapton tape is not sticky indeed and I don't know and where to set the plastic zigzag that we see in a lot of demon before starting to print. I thought this plastic bed could be a good idea to link the printed object to the the bed I the printer.

Thank you also for your advice concerning the in mount of the nozzle and not the entire extruder. Any idea why the extruded blocked so quickly ?

Is anyone else can help me to fix my thermistor issue cause I feel really frustrated that I had to unmount the half of my new printer for nothing and I don't want to spend another 60$ to buy another head if I can just fix the thermistor for 1$.

Many thanks.

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Re: Thermistor broken

Company secret ...

We knw that it need to be resistant to hight temperature so the head of the thermistor must be in glass, have a good accurency, have 100Kohm resistant ...

After 2 min on ebay with key worl NTC PRUSA you have 5 product for less than 5 $

What is secret today ??? smile