1 (edited by op7ical 2013-03-22 02:25:22)

Topic: Another Shifty Y-Axis

My S2 Pro has been working fairly well over the past couple months, with the exception of a replaced extruder head.  I have had no issues with slipping or skipping on any axis until recently. 

(Preface: I have already checked and adjusted belt tension, set screws, lubrication, and stepper voltages.)

The issue I am having is that the y-axis will inexplicably shift sometimes.  The image attached shows the nature of the shift, visible as discontinuities that occur every 15-30 layers.  It doesn't seem to drift much, and is quite sparse.

The curious thing is that it appears to happen exactly at the start of each new layer.  I looked around the vase that I was printing, and noticed that the discontinuity has no "beginning."

When moving the y-axis by itself, it moves very smoothly with no binding.  Using RH to translate the carriage around, there are no issues either.  It sounds perfectly normal. 

Anyone have any ideas?  I have been working on this problem for a week now, but have made absolutely no progress.  I have tried many variations of belt tension, using both Solidoodle's circle alignment technique and Ian's belt tension tool.  Nothing seems to have any useful effect.

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2

Re: Another Shifty Y-Axis

Couple of questions:
1. have you tried a smaller known print that has worked in the past?
2. What is your speed of travel set to when you're not printing

I'm wondering if it's during the "rapid" movement to get to the beginning of the next layer you overshoot a little more than you would on a smaller print.  Maybe turning down from 300mm/s to 200mm/s on your travel would have an effect.  If it did it would be easier to trace the root cause.

3 (edited by op7ical 2013-03-13 14:13:35)

Re: Another Shifty Y-Axis

1. have you tried a smaller known print that has worked in the past?

Yes, I have tried it on some other known-good small solid parts and the same shift effect occurs.  However, when printing a single walled cylinder that was 4" high, it printed flawlessly with almost zero banding and no shift.  But basically anything with infill gets screwed up.


2. What is your speed of travel set to when you're not printing

My travel speed during prints is 70 mm/s, so I don't think this should be the issue.

4

Re: Another Shifty Y-Axis

I know you said you checked, but it has all the signs of slipping.  When you print a single wall cylinder there is no quick movement or rapid stop.  It gets to the end of the layer, moves up and starts printing again.  When you're printing something like what is pictured or something solid, there are longer runs where the printer head goes fast and then has to stop or change direction, and I think this is where you're slipping.  Maybe back off the set screws, move the pulley a little back and forth and then tighten it back up, you could be on a burr on the shaft or something and it's not really as tight as you think.  I'm just spitballing here because it seems like you've tried what I would have tried already.

5

Re: Another Shifty Y-Axis

To have that small of a shift seems a little strange...things to check and try:

retighten all setscrews in the drive pulleys (y rod and x,y steppers)

double your rapid move speed and see if it gets worse

Nothing else comes to mind that would cause such a small shift like that???

6

Re: Another Shifty Y-Axis

I would also try to loosen, rather then tightening the belt (closest to the motor), had that one skipping on me before.
Also make sure that the groves on the pulley are aligned up with the belt-groves.

7

Re: Another Shifty Y-Axis

I have same issue but much worse shift. I did the alignment to for a week and get it work like you side small cubes etc but once a big parts starts it steps out every 15-20 layers. Now I think some is binding but I have seen the infill on small parts causes something.

I run at 30-45 perimeters and I think 45-50 for infill and 17mm for the first layer (never a problem)

Am I running too SLOW? I wonder if slower speeds do not have enough power from motor and accel where it causes some binding, a little more speed and accel will add some torque to push it through any slop. And this is after alignment and yes my voltages check out.

What are your Accel settings and speeds?

My feeds are XY = 500 Z = 5 Extruder = 45
Max Accel = XY 9000 Z 100 E 10000
XY jerk 20 Z .5 E 5

I also notice it occurs at the start of the layers as well. It does appear the head jerks when it has an X-Y shift to go from the infill or inner perimeter then jump to the outer perimeter or next layer it jerks when moving both direction it seems like a rough transition and the rounds make this work (like your vase) so squares are easier I guess.

Not sure why but maybe always there but now I am acute to the problem

I also notice this: My RH stops communicating occasional especially after sitting for a few hours or on long prints and screws things up. It stills is connected but the motors don't respond I have to remove the usb and go back again. i wonder if this is causing skips too.

I am using a MAC and a USB 3.0 port I wonder if this is causing issues?

SD2 owner- Surestepr, filament holder,QUBD servo and heaters, glass bed
Print for fun and for parts for my sports cars
current car is 88 IROC

8

Re: Another Shifty Y-Axis

Hey jjcuff1, make sure your energy settings on the Mac are set to never for computer sleep and 'the put harddrive to sleep' box is unchecked

9

Re: Another Shifty Y-Axis

Yes I had to do that after a long print. The board still does it, after sitting on (not running even) the motors stop responding like the port times out. I unplug the USB and it works. But the whole time it never disconnects it remains connected. Also recently it di the same but the motors no longer responded and the eerpom would not load the Mcodes all defaults were zeros. I had to manually type them in in Pronterface and M500 save then RH worked again.

What about USB 3.0 for MACbook pro think gives problems?

SD2 owner- Surestepr, filament holder,QUBD servo and heaters, glass bed
Print for fun and for parts for my sports cars
current car is 88 IROC

10

Re: Another Shifty Y-Axis

Not sure if this is it but in the early stages there were people adding fans to the electronics because of a similar issue.  Do a search for it and see if the symptoms match yours.  I think lawsy made a electronics cover with fan mounts on it.

11 (edited by ronsii 2013-03-13 18:14:09)

Re: Another Shifty Y-Axis

jjcuff1 wrote:

Yes I had to do that after a long print. The board still does it, after sitting on (not running even) the motors stop responding like the port times out. I unplug the USB and it works. But the whole time it never disconnects it remains connected. Also recently it di the same but the motors no longer responded and the eerpom would not load the Mcodes all defaults were zeros. I had to manually type them in in Pronterface and M500 save then RH worked again.

What about USB 3.0 for MACbook pro think gives problems?


I read somewhere on macs you had to issue some commands in the CLI in addition to the power saving stuff... I'll see if I can find it in my history....


Ok, Found it ---> http://www.cultofmac.com/206291/keep-yo … os-x-tips/

12

Re: Another Shifty Y-Axis

Sweet thanks

You think overheating? I would suspect so BUT it is was repeatable for back to parts at same spot. I would think if heat over several prints the problem would get worse eventually just causing skips right from the start

SD2 owner- Surestepr, filament holder,QUBD servo and heaters, glass bed
Print for fun and for parts for my sports cars
current car is 88 IROC

13

Re: Another Shifty Y-Axis

The overheating was in response to losing the connection, not the skipping.

14

Re: Another Shifty Y-Axis

So losing connection will cause it to overheat?

SD2 owner- Surestepr, filament holder,QUBD servo and heaters, glass bed
Print for fun and for parts for my sports cars
current car is 88 IROC

15

Re: Another Shifty Y-Axis

Overheating will cause it to lose connection was the theory.

16

Re: Another Shifty Y-Axis

Well just tested things and my alignment is super smooth can not be it.

I just got it setup even no power but still hooked up to y it is smoothest ever I have it dialed in.
and I lowered voltage a hair to be safe

then it still buzzes in the Y I swapped the Y with the cables and the Y sounds silky smooth but the X now buzzes

So I assume I stepper board out?
Man this makes sense it was probably bad or going bad all along then lil extra voltage on top of that and it fried and causes board to or prints to stop fail or bind the drive.

SO where do I get these boards?

SD2 owner- Surestepr, filament holder,QUBD servo and heaters, glass bed
Print for fun and for parts for my sports cars
current car is 88 IROC

17

Re: Another Shifty Y-Axis

I have made some more progress on this issue recently, although the end result is that the problem looks stranger still.

Yesterday, I completely re-lubed the system, re-aligned, re-tensioned, and sanded down the burrs/nibs off the y-axis rod, and the system rolled much smoother.  I printed off a couple things and they turned out well, so I thought the problem might be fixed.  To my disappointment, it was not.

The weird part is that the y-axis shift was completely repeatable in a certain part.  It is best explained in order of events:

-I printed a test run with two "heatsink" looking parts.  These parts have just a row of double-perimeter walls to easily detect y-axis shifts.

-The two heatsinks are arranged with one in the back of the platform, the other in the front.

-I examined them from the side, and found that the heatsink printed at the back had absolutely no y-shifts whatsoever.  However, the one at the front had a multitude of seemingly random displacements.

-I repeated the same exact test and examined the parts again.  Turns out, the exact same pattern of defects was duplicated on the "forward" heatsink part.  The attached images show this.

What conclusions can I draw from this, or what causes can I eliminate?

-It cannot be slipping of the set screws or pulleys.  It seems impossible that they would randomly repeat the exact same slippage and correct themselves when they go to one side of the stage.

-It has nothing to do with belt tension.  The two heatsink tests were conducted with very different settings of belt tension and still yielded an identical result.

I am growing increasingly suspicious of firmware or software issues, at this point.  One thing to note is that when I fixed my extruder, I uploaded marlin again with a different thermistor code.  However, I don't know if it is the same marlin version that I was using previously.  It says Lawsy's in the code, I think.  More importantly than what version I am using, what could the firmware do to cause this?

Could it be something like the steps_per_distance for y-axis is incorrect now, maybe?  So perhaps it discretizes it incorrectly when processing g-code?

Thanks for the help, everyone.  I think I am making some progress, at least...

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18

Re: Another Shifty Y-Axis

Well I had identical random results. Random being it worked one time then next time it would repeat. But what was not random the part always failed or shifted at the same points in the model. Any model typically right around layer 16 then walk, then normal then walk again.

Circles seemed worse straights were easier.

And my alignment seems perfect. Yesterday I went to test one more time and checked my alignment it was so smooth I was like I am not touching it it didnt need it. with and without the y stepper belt attached.

So I checked voltages dialed down and repeated. What appeared before to be binding in the middle of the Y rod, when I manually moved the carriage was not, it was the board. When I went to cycle the carriage yesterday the Y totally made a horrible noise and would not move. I checked tension again and repeat and same.

So finally I switched the Y and X plugs and even with X at the .44V the y moved normally and sound MUCH better then when it was new. no noise, smooth motion.

I swapped into the X and the x bound up and back again it worked. So definitely a Y stepper board just slowly failed over last week and kept locking up carriage. My Y made lots of hard sounds last week like it was struggling but after some layers I guess a small bind weather moving forward or back was enough to shift the Y, print for several layers and happen again and repeat. It seems to explain a lot.

And my long prints that stopped or went really bad make sense too if Y totally locked up after a while, the SD just shuts downs and had to do a M999

Try getting machine dialed in again, then manually in RH cycle the Y back and fourth see if binds or sounds hard or rough, if so swap the y-x and plugs on back and repeat see if improvement. if want just swap the chips on back and run that test print again

SD2 owner- Surestepr, filament holder,QUBD servo and heaters, glass bed
Print for fun and for parts for my sports cars
current car is 88 IROC

19 (edited by ronsii 2013-03-14 23:57:02)

Re: Another Shifty Y-Axis

Just a quick note about swapping the x,y,z,e plugs on the main board, You WILL damage the driver boards if there is any power going to them and a plug going to a stepper motor is removed.

So, make sure the printer does NOT have power going into it when switching around plugs.

20

Re: Another Shifty Y-Axis

I have done some more work troubleshooting this issue.  It turned out not to be firmware related, and appears to be some skipping issue.

I would also try to loosen, rather then tightening the belt (closest to the motor), had that one skipping on me before.
Also make sure that the groves on the pulley are aligned up with the belt-groves.

Kvirre, thanks for the advice on the main drive belt.  I have tried many things, but loosening the tension on the belt directly attached to the y-motor has had the most noticeable effect in mitigating my skipping problem.  I have had a couple prints now with 0 errors, which is major progress.

However, I still have some issues with my setup, even if it works for now.  The tension is clearly too loose, as the surface quality is quite poor.  When I had it just a bit tighter, the backlash was practically nothing, but it encountered skipping.  It seems that the system has become extremely sensitive to increased loading. 

I can tell because when the y-axis is moving, I can barely push on it and it will start skipping.  I recall it being much more resilient before.  So I have a few questions:

1.) Just how sensitive have people found the y drive belt tension to be?

2.) What could cause the "maximum load" of the y-axis to change?  Can the belts become worn with skipping events?  Can they get clogged with some material over time?

3.) My y-axis is currently at about .52 volts.  How high can I push it safely?  I want to extract significantly more torque.  I am thinking that it is OK to push that one harder since it is partly "heatsinked" from being affixed to the frame.

4.) There is maybe half a millimeter of bow in the y drive-rod (the one that links the two y-guides).  Is bowing a serious problem with this rod?  Should I get it replaced?

Thanks again for the help, everyone.

21

Re: Another Shifty Y-Axis

I had same exact problem, very sensitive to any loading. I had loose tight etc. but after week of playing my Y stepper finally fried I suspect it is same for you. Reading around here it is over driven and over heats in the y at .521= 1.42A and the board at best even on web site says 1A is max without cooling and the motor is only rated to 1.33A The X is right under the max at .44=.88A at 1am motor max and the Z I assume is same

I am gonna replace with stronger board that handles cooling and load better and order a new y stepper that can handle more torque and at 1.2 only from qu-bd.

with more torque at the right Amp limits of the electronics this sensitivity to binding issue should go away and allow for some mis alignment. My carriage I feel is totally smooth and dialed in. with my current belt tension. Unless the tension is way off, when it is smooth, no power, you should be fine.

Then the only adjustment you should have with belt tensions it to adjust to get the perfect circles little tight/loose to dial it in. BUT if these little adjustments are causing failed prints randomly and over sensitive it is more then belts it is probably the hardware.

I have seen at least 4-5 threads here started by different users all with same symptoms I can not imagine all 5 of us can not execute the same circle procedure to get machine right. It must be failing hardware

SD2 owner- Surestepr, filament holder,QUBD servo and heaters, glass bed
Print for fun and for parts for my sports cars
current car is 88 IROC

22

Re: Another Shifty Y-Axis

I am considering another possible cause for this increased sensitivity to y-axis loading now:

One thing I noticed is that the problem seemed to start shortly after I was trying to print an object that had alot of curling problems, causing the extruder to constantly bump into the curled parts of the object.  Before, this didn't seem to be an issue, since it never skipped.

Could these collisions be wearing down the belts for the y-axis, particularly the main belt?  I believe the tension was quite high, so it might be that the drive was pulling so hard that it skipped some teeth and eventually started to grind down the notches on the belt in these skipping events. 

Also, has anyone ever had issues with the pulleys getting dirty and needing to be cleaned out?  I am wondering if that could be it too.

23

Re: Another Shifty Y-Axis

I doubt that skipping would chew the belt up that much. The amount of tension for that to happen would load the bushings up or the carriage to bind and the alignment procedure fixes any skipping teeth and help them find a new index for the left/right sides of the carriage.

So after alignment should eliminate skipped teeth. But again the skip steps in the servo I noticed like you over infill and extruder head popping and the stepper driver could have been under or over driven and caused it and probably just crapped out and over heated.

I also noticed that my belt problems started after the Extruder Ribbon was popping on the Y belt on the left hand side after long runs for a few days. I think that pushed the rod to the left causing my binding. And after realignment I realized how sensitive that back rod needs to be in right position to keep the pulleys aligned.

SD2 owner- Surestepr, filament holder,QUBD servo and heaters, glass bed
Print for fun and for parts for my sports cars
current car is 88 IROC

24

Re: Another Shifty Y-Axis

I see.  In that case, it is probably not the belts or the pulleys. 


And after realignment I realized how sensitive that back rod needs to be in right position to keep the pulleys aligned.

Why did it turn out to be important?  My back rod isn't perfectly centered (off by 1mm), but I didn't think it would be an issue since I just let the loose pulleys align themselves before I tightened everything up.


So at this point I see only three main possibilities:

1.) The y stepper driver could be malfunctioning, like you said.
2.) Alignment/tension is so exceedingly sensitive that I couldn't get it right after 20-30 tries.
3.) The small wobble in the back rod is causing problems with the belt tension.

I am not sure what else could be wrong at this point.

25 (edited by Kvirre 2013-03-20 15:30:03)

Re: Another Shifty Y-Axis

For me it's been a long and hard road to deal with the y-axis.
I'm not having any problems of skipping or shifting in the prints but ...

My y-backlash problem has NEVER been trimmed down below 0.3 mm.

The most efficient way for me to test this without printing and measuring on the actual model, was to put my fingertip in the "gap" between the carriage-bushing and the rod and start this test :

  • Step 10 steps a 0.1 mm in one direction

  • Step X steps a 0.1 mm in the other direction

Repeat this for a different y-axis origin (back and front)

It's very easy to "feel" when the carriage starts moving in the other direction.
For me, the first reversed 0.1 step never translates to a move, but at best the second or third does.
(while doing this, it's also easy to observe how the different belts loosens and tensions)

Now you may try to loosen an tighten your belt.

To much tension renders in friction on the small ball bearings holding the rod & pulleys.

The Carriage :
I also tried loads different grease / lubes since the static friction is so much greater then the kinetic friction?
Guess that has to do with how sleeve bushings work compared to linear ball bearings.