carl_m1968 wrote:airsoftwarrior345 wrote:So I've been trying to calibrate my printer. and, mostly have had success. Weird thing, is I dropped my steps per mm all the way down to 130, which extrudes 5 cm when I hit to print 5 cm. which is even less than I had before changing my gear, and I thought I was supposed to have to raise it with the new gear?
I've found while I get moire its significantly effected by my steps per mm, so I've been printing the thin wall tests and slightly tweaking my steps per mm to get it to a very small amount.
So my issue. I printed this small tube that printed fine the first time. I've tried printing it again, and it fails every time. It gets this awful looking artifacting, in the same exact spot every time.
https://imgur.com/a/YcvvJVU
The first is on the left. I have no idea why its not working now.
You are still over extruding big time and that is 100% of this issue. Once you get your esteps calibrated so 100 or 5 equal 100 or 5 you then need to calibrate your flow rate by print a single wall cube as set in your slicer, not designed that way. If your flaw rate is right then the walls of the cube should be .42mm thick.
Umm.... if using a 0.4 nozzle, it should be 0.48 - 0.42 would be for a 0.35 nozzle
extrusion width is wholly dependent on nozzle size - ie: 120% of nozzle diameter.
there is much more to calibration than just adjusting E-steps. Yes, E-steps are a major part of it, but that is just the feed rate. You must also calibrate flow rate, and part of that requires measuring your filament to get an average of the actual diameter and putting that into the slicing program so it knows what it is working with.
Please refer to the attached calibration document for the correct way to accomplish all of this.
That document is made up of bits and pieces of information that are scattered all over this forum from several people. All I did was to gather it up, organize it and put it into one place, in a coherent order to help people just like you.
If you follow the steps, ALL of the steps, your printer should be in much better form. Do not skip steps and expect to get good results. Calibration requires all steps be performed.
I am also including "Slicer Theory" - with permission from the original author. This document explains the reasons for needing to do the filament measuring/averaging thing.
Basically it boils down to providing the program with accurate numbers with which it performs the calculations required to print your model. Providing accurate filament dimensions results in more accurate prints.
and lastly, i am including a calibration cube to use in performing the calibrations. it is 25x25x10mm - it is plenty big enough to get the required wall thickness information providing you set things up correctly in your slicer (instructions are included in the calibration document)
So, there is your homework for the weekend. Have fun!
Post's attachments25x25x10 calibration cube.stl 684 b, 1 downloads since 2021-02-12
Filament Calibration 101.pdf 474.8 kb, 1 downloads since 2021-02-12
Slicer Theory.pdf 85.89 kb, 1 downloads since 2021-02-12
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