1 (edited by CrazyBear 2013-03-15 00:42:50)

Topic: SD3 Noob: Please Help - Problems with circles before/after calibration

Hello,

I just completed the X-Y-Z calibration using Jinga dial gauge holder design (Kit for Calibrating X and Y with a Dial Gauge) and I have performed all the calibrations I could find and the guys from the forum recommended (Leveled Platform, Z-Screw, Extruder Calibration, Flow Rate, Belts tension, Y-Axis Adjustment, Filament holder redesign to reduce load to the extruder, tightened the set screws on the pulleys, turned off the Randomize starting points checkbox).

To change X-Y-Z values I used the EEPROM configuration feature in R/H and my values are as follows: X:88.70, Y:89.15, Z:2360. This gave me X:10.01mm, Y:10.3mm, Z:10.02mm (when moving 10mm).

After the last calibration, circles are a little better but I can still see that are kind of flat on the Y-Axis (I am printing a cylinder 20mm x 20mm). What else can I do?

Any help will be very much appreciated,

CB

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2

Re: SD3 Noob: Please Help - Problems with circles before/after calibration

You might try loosening the belts a little bit.  I found that tightening them will actually increase backlash.  Since you have the dial gauge holder you can measure your Y backlash directly.  Go toward the front until the plunger barely touches the front frame.  Zero the gauge, move forward 10mm then move back 10mm.  The distance it has left to get to 0 is your backlash.   You can adjust the tension of the belts up and down to see if there is any change in your backlash readings.  l

3

Re: SD3 Noob: Please Help - Problems with circles before/after calibration

Thank you Ian. Does it makes any difference if I measure with the head centered or towards the edges?

4

Re: SD3 Noob: Please Help - Problems with circles before/after calibration

It shouldn't.  I wonder if there is a difference between the front and back, but I haven't found a way to get the plunger to push against something while pointed backwards.

5

Re: SD3 Noob: Please Help - Problems with circles before/after calibration

Thanks again... and one more question... the belts have to adjusment screws (front and back) Do I need to adjust both ot just one is enough?

6

Re: SD3 Noob: Please Help - Problems with circles before/after calibration

good simple test.
For the back, why not just zip tie or place a block in there off the back wall or any point really and have it touch off the dial.
It is not absolute just relative

SD2 owner- Surestepr, filament holder,QUBD servo and heaters, glass bed
Print for fun and for parts for my sports cars
current car is 88 IROC

7

Re: SD3 Noob: Please Help - Problems with circles before/after calibration

One is generally enough, but slide the carriage forward and back a couple of times by hand after making the adjustments.

8

Re: SD3 Noob: Please Help - Problems with circles before/after calibration

Could it be possible for any of you to print my cylinder as a test? I would like to see how round it can be,  maybe I am just chasing rainbows.

It measures 20mm by 10mm. With the 3mm profile is should be around 600mm of filament. Also I have a 40mm by 10mm but I haven't tried yet.

CB

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9 (edited by ronsii 2013-03-06 21:11:00)

Re: SD3 Noob: Please Help - Problems with circles before/after calibration

One question... how did you make this cylinder? as it looks out of round in the stl preview on this site...

Might be an optical illusion... I am not near the SD but will be back there in a few hours if nobody ales get a chance to test it

10 (edited by CrazyBear 2013-03-07 06:05:10)

Re: SD3 Noob: Please Help - Problems with circles before/after calibration

Using Autodesk 123D Design and exported to STL directly.

Just as a side note: I loosen the belts too much that when I moved the carriage back and forth the rod that hold the pulleys it moved and now the circles are more like octagons sad

11 (edited by CrazyBear 2013-03-08 19:20:52)

Re: SD3 Noob: Please Help - Problems with circles before/after calibration

Well... I have  tested the voltage on the stepper chips and stil cannot print the "perfect" circle.

Customer Support just keep sending me the same troubleshooting links over and over. I tried Skype buy never got an answer.

I was expecting a great experience out of the box, but that was not the case sad

12

Re: SD3 Noob: Please Help - Problems with circles before/after calibration

CrazyBear wrote:

Well... I have  tested the voltage on the stepper chips and stil cannot print the "perfect" circle.

Customer Support just keep sending me the same troubleshooting links over and over. I tried Skype buy never got an answer.

I was expecting a great experience out of the box, but that was not the case sad

We are usually on Skype Wed-Sun.

Former Solidoodle employee, no longer associated with the company.

13 (edited by CrazyBear 2013-03-13 07:05:12)

Re: SD3 Noob: Please Help - Problems with circles before/after calibration

So... anyone willing to print the cylinders? What about Solidoodle Employee... are you willing to take the challenge?

14

Re: SD3 Noob: Please Help - Problems with circles before/after calibration

I have the same problem but skips in the Y direction

I will check tension again but they do not have to be the same left to right so do not take that as bible. Since the carriage is not probably 90deg to the rods you need some slope in the belts.

Also my M92 XY steps I dialed in and that helped out my accuracy as well. Plus doing glass bed and redoing my flowrates and 1st layer squish all at .3 heights helped me make some great parts that appear round to me smile

I made 4.6" circle and it is very true and slip fits over a PVC pipe no problem

SD2 owner- Surestepr, filament holder,QUBD servo and heaters, glass bed
Print for fun and for parts for my sports cars
current car is 88 IROC

15

Re: SD3 Noob: Please Help - Problems with circles before/after calibration

After many, many hours of frustration, headaches and the great input from the good fellows in this forum (Thank you all!) I got
closer to what I wanted (and needed). This is a compilation of the tweaks I had to perform:

•    Stepper chip voltage adjustment (all my voltages were low)
•    "True circle real alignment" video (5+ times)
•    Belt tension adjustment (hours n this one)
•    X-Y Backlash adjustment (Repetier-Host EEPROM values)

Specifics:

•    I had to loosen the "Y"  belts (just enough that didn't slip when the pulleys rotates)
•    The belt on the right side has  slight more tension than the left side
•    I had to loosen the belt that connects the Y-Motor and the rod

Hope this helps to any other solidoodler that needs the perfect circle alignment.


CB

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