Error Nema Da Vinci Jr ramps comvertion (Page 1 of 2)

Yes you need to modify motor cables. check motor cable with multi-meters for resistance. you should be able to identify two pairs that have almost no resistance, name it pair 1 and pair 2, assign each pair with A and B randomly for now, they will be connect to your 1A, 1B, and 2A, 2B in RAMPS board. And your motor should be able to turn now if the connection is solid. But the direction can be the opposite depend on how you randomly assign the A and B. If the direction is the opposite of what you want, switch A and B in pair 1, the direction will be reverse. (Actually switch A and B in pair 2 will do the same thing, as long as you don't switch A and B in both pairs)

You can use the original endstop with addition of resistors. Please read my early post and the referenced guide for instructions and pictures.

http://www.soliforum.com/topic/16694/ho … updated-4/

Can you post images or video?

When you say "the Z axis does not come up correctly, as if you missed steps", what exactly did you see? Can you move z axis up and down? Does it home correctly? Is it moving in correct direction? If is does not move, will it help if you give z-axis a push?

OK, seems like motor current is not high enough or the motor wire is not connected securely.

If it is due to motor current not high enough, right after homing, turn the z-axis rod that controlled by z-axis motor, it should not be able to be turned easily. if you can turn it with little effort, you motor is not generating enough force due to low current.Google for instruction on how to adjust motor current.

If it is due to z-axis motor wire is not connected securely, when you turn to moving the Z axis 10mm manually, but it does not move, you can turn the z-axis rod that controlled by z-axis motor, it will turn whatever direction you push it to, and if you force it turn the opposite direction, it will change. In that case, double check z-axis motor wire.

Sometimes the issue is caused by Endstop not work, but endstop issue will make it only go one direction when moving the Z axis 10mm manually. Power off the machine, and turn the z-axis rod that controlled by z-axis motor so that your hotend is around 50mm-70mm high, then try to moving the Z axis 10mm manually. if you only goes one direction, your z-axis endstop have problem, check with multi-meter and see if voltage between signal and ground changes with/without block the light path of the optical sensor.

My English is not good either, so I need more detail to make sure I understand you correctly. And picture or video is better since Language is not a issue anymore.

OK, at the moment of moving the Z axis 10mm manually, it did not move or it did not move far enough? if it did not move far enough, check what motor driver you have, and double check the jumper setting for z-axis motor driver. The jumper is under the motor driver.

Your z-axis resolution should be 2560 steps/mm if you are using A4988, and should be 5120 if you use DRV8825 (assuming all three jumper are on)

Anet board is A4988 with 16 segments stepper motor driver, so your z-axis resolution should be 2560 steps/mm. You other setting looks fine and should not cause any major problem.

For Anet board, you can not adjust motor current for x y axis and extruder motor current, but you can adjust the z-axis motor current with the pot onboard. If this current is too low, you will not able to provide enough strength for the z-axis motor. If this current is too high, you z-axis motor drive will over heat and stop working until it cool down.

OK, I see nothing wrong with your step driver because two cube printed at same dimension. However, the print quality on Anet board is very low, it is likely caused by three potential issue.

1. The configuration for themostats may be off. Do you know for sure you used correct themostats in configuration?(This is less likely but doesn't hurt to double check.)

2. If you don't have layer cooling fan, you printing speed is too fast. Cut down your x y z max feedrate to 150 mm/s, cut down your x y max accerlation to 400mm/s2. Cut down acceration printing to 150mm/s2, cut down x y jerk to 8 mm/s (This will almost definitely the cause of your print quality issue. after you add layer cooling fan, you can try to double this settings and see how much if will affect the print quality)

3. You have over extrusion issue. reduce you e-axis resolution to 88 mm/s and see if the result improves. normal setting range from 80-88 mm/s, it slightly vary depend on the filament material and color, but you should see big improvement in quality after reduce from 95 to 88, and you can fine tune with some calibration. (This definitely contribute to your print quality issue, and you are expected to hear click sound in exturder during printing process)

You can change all these setting on LCD screen under "settings-motion control", remember to "save to eeprom" every time you changed the setting. (You can also get the settings in your firmware config by "load default setting" to over write setting in eeprom

print it on the left edge in front can be caused by switch x-axis motor and y-axis motor or x-axis motor and y-axis motor running at opposite direction.

"Change the configuration by which you recommend me, but not solved the problem"
--Did the change make difference? The print quality is better or worse? Can you show some picture?

I think you x y and z axis step/mm is changed this time, the cube printed is bigger in dimension, also have over-extrusion issue, but overall quality is better than last picture.

I think you are confused. The E-axis resolution is step/mm not mm/s. E-axis resolution is a value indicate how many step the motor need to turn to advance 1 mm, there is  a best value, not the slower the better. you will have under-extrusion with this value too low and over-extrusion with this value too high.

The max feed-rate, max acceleration, acceleration printing and jerk are measured mm/s or mm/s2, which usually generate better quality with lower value at the cost of print time.

x y z e axis resolution should be 80 80 2560 88, you might need to play with e axis resolution later but it is good to start with this number.

Cut down your x y z max feedrate to 150 mm/s, cut down your x y max accerlation to 400mm/s2. Cut down acceration printing to 150mm/s2, cut down x y jerk to 8 mm/s

Then print out this Extrusion multiplier calibration and follow the instruction to decide the optimal FLOW%. Print at 20 mm/s.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1796601
This should give you results very similar to stock jr if not better. Then you should looking to add layer cooling fan before you increase your print speed.