Topic: Folgertech FT-5 R2 build
I've got my FT-5 R2 kit!
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SoliForum - 3D Printing Community → 3D Printer Discussion → Folgertech FT-5 R2 build
I've got my FT-5 R2 kit!
6 hours of work after the first picture...
Congrats
no corner braces in the back - that is where the electronics box goes... ![]()
congrats and have fun!
no corner braces in the back - that is where the electronics box goes...
congrats and have fun!
OH! Right, I thought it meant just the back, back, thanks.
8.25hrs in, phase 1 loosely put together. I squared the bottom but have not set the mid rails to proper spacing nor checked the whole thing for square. 
lookin good. ![]()
Well I only had an hour today, and I didn't get much done. Filing on the base plate, and trying to figure out which direction the motor vs fan side. Then trying to decide which way the fan should blow. And trying to find the M3 x20 screws, which actually seam 2mm too long cause the fan has inserts for the nuts as I have it blowing into the board and the motor mounted on the side that says 'down front'. Phew, too much time trying to figure things out and not enough time working.
Another disappointing day building. I want to install a fan guard/filter on the input side of the electronics housing. So I had to figure out if there was enough room. A nice guy on facebook told me there was about 50mm of room, so now I must find some screws long enough to add my fan filter. I had not yet sorted all the hardware, and had to do so in order to find the 4mm nyloc nuts. Then I tried to install the SHF8 blocks and found I was unsure of the best direction for the clamping screws ( I decided to point each towards the closest outer edge. But then I found I had not cleaned up the holes from the aluminum well enough and the blocks did not sit totally flush, so I removed the motor and fan and now I must re-clean the holes. DO IT RIGHT THE FIRST TIME! Curse myself for trying to shortcut! Time for lunch, more to come.
13.5 hours into the build. I've completed to phase 3, but left the components loose on the boards. Upgraded the bottom board bolts from M4 x20 to M5 x25 and the M4 x16 to M4 x 20. Hopefully I won't regret it because it leaves less slack for rod alignment. If it doesn't work out, I can always go back and change it. One of my bearings was crooked in it's housing, so I had to tap it straight. The most used tools so far are a file and a duster.
those pillow block are made to swivel to help with alignment
yes, those are supposed to rotate freely - if they do not, you need to work them around a bit, add a drop of oil, too... use a dowel, or a length of 8mm rod to work them free... I had one that was really bad - had to take it apart and use a file and some ultra fine wet/dry sandpaper to get to move properly.

Ah, I see, thanks guys. No wonder it was so easy to tap straight!
yes, those are supposed to rotate freely - if they do not, you need to work them around a bit, add a drop of oil, too... use a dowel, or a length of 8mm rod to work them free... I had one that was really bad - had to take it apart and use a file and some ultra fine wet/dry sandpaper to get to move properly.
Man, that looks horrible!
It was pretty bad, but with careful filing and sanding I was able to get it cleaned up and working properly. Never did replace it.
for a little reference on building... http://www.soliforum.com/topic/14957/folgertech-ft5/ - that was my build thread...altho they have made changes to the kit since I got mine - the most important ones being the corner pieces and the heat bed.
It was pretty bad, but with careful filing and sanding I was able to get it cleaned up and working properly. Never did replace it.
for a little reference on building... http://www.soliforum.com/topic/14957/folgertech-ft5/ - that was my build thread...altho they have made changes to the kit since I got mine - the most important ones being the corner pieces and the heat bed.
Thanks, I needed another reference for this. So many things are misleading and unclear. P. 24 has had me mounting the motors and blocks both ways a couple of times, finally got a picture reference to the front of the machine to determine where the dang 'tab' on the side panel faces. That is, on the interface panel's side in the back (facing in of course). Phew, spending a lot of extra time just trying to figure out orientation of parts and swapping those that have been done incorrectly. Noticed in a couple of time lapse videos, those guys did the same thing.
yeah, instructions are the weakest points of these kits... stuff is being worked on, however... any questions, just ask - i try to check in at least once a day, lol
So not much build time today, got the top and bottom plates together and installed but had to stop at the rods, cause I have 7 of the T20 8mm pulleys and ZERO T20 5mm pulleys, ![]()
Send them an email. Let them know. They have been pretty good about replacing missing parts
include pictures if possible
Send them an email. Let them know. They have been pretty good about replacing missing parts
include pictures if possible
Yes . IIRC they are not the best at communicating but they will resound to email and will replace missing or defective parts. Also test your power supply as this has been a weak point in the past .
I do expect this issue was dealt with with the new 24 volt version.
Yea! I got my replacement parts, or my correct parts I guess I should say. Unfortunately, I'm so deep into a 3D design competition now, that my FT-5 R2 will have to wait, sigh.....
I have not tested the power supply, too bad I wasn't able to read this before I let them know my problem. Well, I will hope the power supply is good to go.
Not a big deal to test just hook it to the mains and check output voltage with a meter. My buddy put his together only to find the PS was belly up out of the box.
They have a thermal switch built in to turn the fan on mine had one switch wire dangling . So the fan did not come on. So the two ft-5s that i personalty had contact with has PS issues. My buddy also had problems with the thermisistors. So that said I would not wait too long to assemble and test your kit.
Finally got back to building my kit after receiving the missing parts. The R2 version has idler pulleys and a single belt and stepper motor for the z axis now. I don't like the way they recommend to install these idler pulleys. https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/ … Ew4Vll1d28
If you look, you will notice the pulleys cannot use their built in bearing to spin on, they will be spinning on the bolt shaft causing wear. I will likely buy longer bolts and install a washer and lock washer on the top side and a washer on the bottom side to prevent it from unscrewing under vibration and prevent the nuts from digging into the aluminum sheet. Any suggestions on how to mount these idlers to allow them to use their bearings? I would assume these are press fit application.
Finally got back to building my kit after receiving the missing parts. The R2 version has idler pulleys and a single belt and stepper motor for the z axis now. I don't like the way they recommend to install these idler pulleys. https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/ … Ew4Vll1d28
If you look, you will notice the pulleys cannot use their built in bearing to spin on, they will be spinning on the bolt shaft causing wear. I will likely buy longer bolts and install a washer and lock washer on the top side and a washer on the bottom side to prevent it from unscrewing under vibration and prevent the nuts from digging into the aluminum sheet. Any suggestions on how to mount these idlers to allow them to use their bearings? I would assume these are press fit application.
They use the same type of setup for the Mini Kossel they sell as well. The pullies will still use their existing inner sleeves for their bearings to ride on. In addition that sleeve will also ride on the screw. There will be very little wear aside from normal wear.
And my linear rails have terrible bearings. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=64kZG0tsrL0
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