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Topic: Upgrade Reccomendations

I'm looking to get or build a printer with a larger print area, like around 8" cube. I remember reading some posts to stay away from acrylic frames. I'm trying to figure out Prusa i3 and Anet A8, but I think I keep finding cheap acrylic knock-offs. I'm not sure what I should be looking for to find quality. Recommendation? I've got an MP mini and it's working great for PLA, however the bed is too cool for non warped ABS prints and it's small.

I do have an opportunity to buy a Robo r1 plus for 450bucks, used. It has a nice build area, like 10 , 9, 8 I think.

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Re: Upgrade Reccomendations

I'm looking to get or build a printer with a larger print area, like around 8" cube.

Should not be hard to find that is more or less a common standard size bed these days.
a caveat remember this is 3d printing so doubling the size is really 8 times the size. for example a if a 2 in cube takes an hour to print a 4" cube will take  8 hours to print and an 8 inch cube will take  64 hours to print. Also the material use will be proportional to the time as well so material use is exponential as well.
That said I have seen a couple of huge prints done on a g max and I am looking to buy a printer with a 12" x 12 x 15 build area.

I remember reading some posts to stay away from acrylic frames

.

I'm not sure what I should be looking for to find quality.


Electronics: cheap controller $50  genuine quality $150. Real driver chip $ 8.00 cheap clone $1.50 . ED3 knockoff $14 genuine ED3v6 $73  cheap motor $10-$15 ea name brand quality stepper $50-$80 each. This is why a ultimaker has a price tag of $2500 -$3500 so quality has a higher price tag. The question  is real cost real parts are going to have a higher reliability .

so do you gamble on cheap or invest in quality. 

higher purchase price. So when people are selling printers or kits for $250 -$500 there are going to be compromises .

So what to look for
Metal frame
quality components
real lead screws
layer fan if you like PLA
heated bed
on board control
build area size
Boden extuders print faster but can be problematic for flexible material
all metal hot end  extruder temp range materials that can be printed
cheap hot ends have limited temp and will not print higher temp materials like nylon
ABS you pretty much need an enclosure  to keep higher even ambient temps.
you can build an enclosure or use a cardboard box .
PETG is becoming more popular and does not warp like abs.
The wanhao duplicator  is a pretty good value pussa clone.
The robo is probably a good option but again without an enclosure not an abs machine.

Where in the world are you . IMHO the best option is to visit an independent 3d printing store that has 10 plus makes and models in there show room or visit join a local maker space that has multiple 3d printers so you can see and use different ones.  Yes these places exist.

Soliddoodle 4 stock w glass bed------Folger Tech Prusa 2020 upgraded to and titan /aero extruder mirror bed
FT5 with titan/ E3D Aero------MP mini select w glass bed
MP Utimate maker pro-W bondtech extruder
Marlin/Repetier Host/ Slic3r and Cura

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Re: Upgrade Reccomendations

if you want to do ABS, it is highly recommended to have a fully enclosed print area... open frame printers such as the Prusa types are subject to air movement which is the primary cause of warping ABS prints.

that is not to say you can't do ABS on an open frame, you can, just that it is more challenging.
ABS likes a warm environment, and does not like any kind of drafts.

SD4 #1 & #2 - Lawsy carriages, E3D v6, Rumba controller board, mirror bed plate, X motor fan, upgraded PSU & Mica bed heater
SD4 #3 - in the works ~ Folgertech FT-5, rev 1
Printit Industries Beta Tester - Horizon H1

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Re: Upgrade Reccomendations

I have avoided ABS  .
Some would say a layer fan is highly recommended for pla I have yet to use one.
all in settings and tuning.

Soliddoodle 4 stock w glass bed------Folger Tech Prusa 2020 upgraded to and titan /aero extruder mirror bed
FT5 with titan/ E3D Aero------MP mini select w glass bed
MP Utimate maker pro-W bondtech extruder
Marlin/Repetier Host/ Slic3r and Cura

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Re: Upgrade Reccomendations

A layer fan also helps for some smaller ABS prints/bridging. The option for a code controlled fan is recommended, even if you print PLA only. If you only plan on doing very large prints, you can get away with not using a layer fan at times.

Printit Mason and Printit Horizon printers
Multiple SD2s- Bulldog XL, E3D v5/v6/Lite6, Volcano, Hobb Goblin, Titan, .9 motor, Lawsy carriages, direct Y drive, fishing line...the list goes on
Filawinder and Filastruder #1870.....worth every penny!

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Re: Upgrade Reccomendations

I can cast a vote for the Wanhao Duplicator series. The components are decent quality, the heated bed warms up quickly, quiet running, reasonable cost. I have around 700 hours on mine now and it is working fine. I upgraded the MK10 to all metal and that is all I have done.

Cheers

Tom

I was cut out to be rich ... but ... I was sewn up all wrong!
Wanhao Duplicator I3 Plus with glass bed, MK10 All Metal Hot End

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Re: Upgrade Reccomendations

Thanks for the inputs everyone.

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Re: Upgrade Reccomendations

Thanks for the inputs everyone.