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		<title><![CDATA[SoliForum - 3D Printing Community — Upgrade Reccomendations]]></title>
		<link>https://www.soliforum.com/topic/16199/upgrade-reccomendations/</link>
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		<description><![CDATA[The most recent posts in Upgrade Reccomendations.]]></description>
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			<title><![CDATA[Re: Upgrade Reccomendations]]></title>
			<link>https://www.soliforum.com/post/133414/#p133414</link>
			<description><![CDATA[<p>Thanks for the inputs everyone.</p>]]></description>
			<author><![CDATA[null@example.com (pap4tinker)]]></author>
			<pubDate>Mon, 06 Mar 2017 04:44:25 +0000</pubDate>
			<guid>https://www.soliforum.com/post/133414/#p133414</guid>
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			<title><![CDATA[Re: Upgrade Reccomendations]]></title>
			<link>https://www.soliforum.com/post/133413/#p133413</link>
			<description><![CDATA[<p>Thanks for the inputs everyone.</p>]]></description>
			<author><![CDATA[null@example.com (pap4tinker)]]></author>
			<pubDate>Mon, 06 Mar 2017 04:43:21 +0000</pubDate>
			<guid>https://www.soliforum.com/post/133413/#p133413</guid>
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			<title><![CDATA[Re: Upgrade Reccomendations]]></title>
			<link>https://www.soliforum.com/post/133369/#p133369</link>
			<description><![CDATA[<p>I can cast a vote for the Wanhao Duplicator series. The components are decent quality, the heated bed warms up quickly, quiet running, reasonable cost. I have around 700 hours on mine now and it is working fine. I upgraded the MK10 to all metal and that is all I have done.</p><p>Cheers</p><p>Tom</p>]]></description>
			<author><![CDATA[null@example.com (wagnmkr)]]></author>
			<pubDate>Sun, 05 Mar 2017 11:46:33 +0000</pubDate>
			<guid>https://www.soliforum.com/post/133369/#p133369</guid>
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			<title><![CDATA[Re: Upgrade Reccomendations]]></title>
			<link>https://www.soliforum.com/post/133330/#p133330</link>
			<description><![CDATA[<p>A layer fan also helps for some smaller ABS prints/bridging. The option for a code controlled fan is recommended, even if you print PLA only. If you only plan on doing very large prints, you can get away with not using a layer fan at times.</p>]]></description>
			<author><![CDATA[null@example.com (AZERATE)]]></author>
			<pubDate>Sat, 04 Mar 2017 15:52:59 +0000</pubDate>
			<guid>https://www.soliforum.com/post/133330/#p133330</guid>
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			<title><![CDATA[Re: Upgrade Reccomendations]]></title>
			<link>https://www.soliforum.com/post/133329/#p133329</link>
			<description><![CDATA[<p>I have avoided ABS&nbsp; .<br />Some would say a layer fan is highly recommended for pla I have yet to use one. <br />all in settings and tuning.</p>]]></description>
			<author><![CDATA[null@example.com (Tin Falcon)]]></author>
			<pubDate>Sat, 04 Mar 2017 15:40:30 +0000</pubDate>
			<guid>https://www.soliforum.com/post/133329/#p133329</guid>
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			<title><![CDATA[Re: Upgrade Reccomendations]]></title>
			<link>https://www.soliforum.com/post/133324/#p133324</link>
			<description><![CDATA[<p>if you want to do ABS, it is highly recommended to have a fully enclosed print area... open frame printers such as the Prusa types are subject to air movement which is the primary cause of warping ABS prints. </p><p>that is not to say you can&#039;t do ABS on an open frame, you can, just that it is more challenging. <br />ABS likes a warm environment, and does not like any kind of drafts.</p>]]></description>
			<author><![CDATA[null@example.com (heartless)]]></author>
			<pubDate>Sat, 04 Mar 2017 15:09:54 +0000</pubDate>
			<guid>https://www.soliforum.com/post/133324/#p133324</guid>
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			<title><![CDATA[Re: Upgrade Reccomendations]]></title>
			<link>https://www.soliforum.com/post/133321/#p133321</link>
			<description><![CDATA[<div class="quotebox"><blockquote><p>I&#039;m looking to get or build a printer with a larger print area, like around 8&quot; cube.</p></blockquote></div><p>Should not be hard to find that is more or less a common standard size bed these days. <br />a caveat remember this is 3d printing so doubling the size is really 8 times the size. for example a if a 2 in cube takes an hour to print a 4&quot; cube will take&nbsp; 8 hours to print and an 8 inch cube will take&nbsp; 64 hours to print. Also the material use will be proportional to the time as well so material use is exponential as well. <br />That said I have seen a couple of huge prints done on a g max and I am looking to buy a printer with a 12&quot; x 12 x 15 build area. </p><p> </p><div class="quotebox"><blockquote><p>I remember reading some posts to stay away from acrylic frames</p></blockquote></div><p>.</p><div class="quotebox"><blockquote><p>I&#039;m not sure what I should be looking for to find quality.</p></blockquote></div><br /><p>Electronics: cheap controller $50&nbsp; genuine quality $150. Real driver chip $ 8.00 cheap clone $1.50 . ED3 knockoff $14 genuine ED3v6 $73&nbsp; cheap motor $10-$15 ea name brand quality stepper $50-$80 each. This is why a ultimaker has a price tag of $2500 -$3500 so quality has a higher price tag. The question&nbsp; is real cost real parts are going to have a higher reliability . </p><p>so do you gamble on cheap or invest in quality.&nbsp; </p><p>higher purchase price. So when people are selling printers or kits for $250 -$500 there are going to be compromises .</p><p>So what to look for<br />Metal frame<br />quality components <br />real lead screws <br />layer fan if you like PLA<br />heated bed <br />on board control <br />build area size<br />Boden extuders print faster but can be problematic for flexible material<br />all metal hot end&nbsp; extruder temp range materials that can be printed<br />cheap hot ends have limited temp and will not print higher temp materials like nylon<br />ABS you pretty much need an enclosure&nbsp; to keep higher even ambient temps. <br />you can build an enclosure or use a cardboard box .<br />PETG is becoming more popular and does not warp like abs. <br />The wanhao duplicator&nbsp; is a pretty good value pussa clone. <br />The robo is probably a good option but again without an enclosure not an abs machine. </p><p>Where in the world are you . IMHO the best option is to visit an independent 3d printing store that has 10 plus makes and models in there show room or visit join a local maker space that has multiple 3d printers so you can see and use different ones.&nbsp; Yes these places exist.</p>]]></description>
			<author><![CDATA[null@example.com (Tin Falcon)]]></author>
			<pubDate>Sat, 04 Mar 2017 13:29:39 +0000</pubDate>
			<guid>https://www.soliforum.com/post/133321/#p133321</guid>
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			<title><![CDATA[Upgrade Reccomendations]]></title>
			<link>https://www.soliforum.com/post/133312/#p133312</link>
			<description><![CDATA[<p>I&#039;m looking to get or build a printer with a larger print area, like around 8&quot; cube. I remember reading some posts to stay away from acrylic frames. I&#039;m trying to figure out Prusa i3 and Anet A8, but I think I keep finding cheap acrylic knock-offs. I&#039;m not sure what I should be looking for to find quality. Recommendation? I&#039;ve got an MP mini and it&#039;s working great for PLA, however the bed is too cool for non warped ABS prints and it&#039;s small.</p><p>I do have an opportunity to buy a Robo r1 plus for 450bucks, used. It has a nice build area, like 10 , 9, 8 I think.</p>]]></description>
			<author><![CDATA[null@example.com (pap4tinker)]]></author>
			<pubDate>Sat, 04 Mar 2017 04:14:13 +0000</pubDate>
			<guid>https://www.soliforum.com/post/133312/#p133312</guid>
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