1 Topic by Brutalsnowman (edited by Brutalsnowman 2016-07-07 19:45:40)

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Topic: test print after upgrades

I'm just going to start by saying the best choice I ever made was buying my parts from PrintIt. Their customer service is world class.

I recently upgraded:
E3D Hotend: http://www.printitindustries.com/collec … -assembled
PrintIt Heatbed:http://www.printitindustries.com/collections/frontpage/products/printit-8-x-8-heatbed
Lawsy Carriage:http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:104059

Here is a link to the pictures of my test print: http://www.thingiverse.com/make:235280

My major issues is with the overhangs. Anyone have any recommendations of changes I can make? They aren't crazy bad. but not as good as others who have printed the same test print.

2 Reply by AZERATE (edited by AZERATE 2016-07-07 21:09:54)

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Re: test print after upgrades

Can you post some pictures of what you are experiencing?

Judging by the Thing you shared, you are either dealing with bridging or the dome. The bridging can be adjusted in your slicer settings...many people recommend a nozzle fan and very low bridging speeds. If you are having issues with that half dome, try a finer resolution. If you are using a stock 5/16" threaded Z rod, use these layer heights:
SD thread     |   Translates to
---------------------------------
.09878         |  .1mm
.1976           |  .2mm
.2963           |  .3mm
.3951           |  .4mm
.4939           |  .5mm
.5997           |  .6mm

If you are using a .4mm nozzle, which comes standard on the E3D hotends, I recommend staying below .2963

EDIT: And thank you for the kind words smile

Printit Mason and Printit Horizon printers
Multiple SD2s- Bulldog XL, E3D v5/v6/Lite6, Volcano, Hobb Goblin, Titan, .9 motor, Lawsy carriages, direct Y drive, fishing line...the list goes on
Filawinder and Filastruder #1870.....worth every penny!

3 Reply by Brutalsnowman

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Re: test print after upgrades

So far with my prints at .09878 it has made a HUGE difference in my print quality and mid print layer separations! I'm working through some bed level issues and some corner lifting, but it's getting a lot better! smile

I'm now printing with the print bed at 100 and with a brim but I'm often times seeing a little bit of print curl. Does anyone have a recommendation of other things to try?

printing on a glass print bed with kapton tape. I find I get better adhesion with hairspray compared to kapton tape though.

4 Reply by wardjr

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Re: test print after upgrades

If on glass you don't need the Kapton tape, just hairspray.
If you can try 105 for bed heat.  Keeping drafts away from the printer helps.  I have even resorted to using temporary tape ducts to keep any fans near the extruder from blowing on the print.

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

wardjr's Website

5 Reply by carl_m1968

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Re: test print after upgrades

wardjr wrote:

If on glass you don't need the Kapton tape, just hairspray.
If you can try 105 for bed heat.  Keeping drafts away from the printer helps.  I have even resorted to using temporary tape ducts to keep any fans near the extruder from blowing on the print.

For me ABS seems to do much better if I use my layer that I use for PLA as well. Maybe it causes more unifirm cooling. However I het much better ABS prints with less lifting using a layer fan on an enclosed system.

Printing since 2009 and still love it!
Anycubic 4MAX best $225 ever invested.
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6 Reply by wardjr

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Re: test print after upgrades

carl_m1968 wrote:
wardjr wrote:

If on glass you don't need the Kapton tape, just hairspray.
If you can try 105 for bed heat.  Keeping drafts away from the printer helps.  I have even resorted to using temporary tape ducts to keep any fans near the extruder from blowing on the print.

For me ABS seems to do much better if I use my layer that I use for PLA as well. Maybe it causes more unifirm cooling. However I het much better ABS prints with less lifting using a layer fan on an enclosed system.

I wouldn't argue any of this but would add that stable chamber temps inside a fairly tight chamber is an important factor.

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

wardjr's Website

7 Reply by AZERATE

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Re: test print after upgrades

The fiberglass sleeves for the v6/Lite6 have some flex to them, so it is possible that the sleeving contracted a little after insertion.
Remove the thermistor and inspect to be sure the wires are not exposed. If the are, share a pic I would be happy to send you a replacement free of charge.

Printit Mason and Printit Horizon printers
Multiple SD2s- Bulldog XL, E3D v5/v6/Lite6, Volcano, Hobb Goblin, Titan, .9 motor, Lawsy carriages, direct Y drive, fishing line...the list goes on
Filawinder and Filastruder #1870.....worth every penny!