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SoliForum - 3D Printing Community → Filastruder → Filament Extruder - Convert pellets to filament
Ok. Sounds like a winner. Just let me know when you get set to sell.
Thanks.
elmoret wrote:$200 shipped.
Shoot me an email - [email protected], and I'll make sure you know!
Got my package Tim! I will see if I can make some time this weekend to upgrade my filastruder to beta 2.
Randavian wrote:Ok. Sounds like a winner. Just let me know when you get set to sell.
Thanks.
elmoret wrote:$200 shipped.
Shoot me an email - [email protected], and I'll make sure you know!
Done. Thanks!
I'm working on setting up my spooler with a stepper, which means finally getting around to learning how to use an Arduino. I also have an idea for using a line laser and a linear CCD sensor to measure the filament in realtime. If the sensor is near the nozzle at the point where the filament is stretched to its final size, it might even be possible for the motor to automatically adjust its speed to maintain a certain size.
That's pro-grade stuff right there! Wish I had the time to get play with that - maybe after all the kickstarter prep is over.
...maybe after all the kickstarter prep is over.
Details...preview?
Made a half pound of clear today. No contaminants, definitely bubbles. None big enough to show up on the surface of the filament, which is why I never saw them in natural. I'd say 1 spherical bubble, 300ish microns in size, every 15 feet or so.
So have you had luck coloring it?
elmoret wrote:Made a half pound of clear today. No contaminants, definitely bubbles. None big enough to show up on the surface of the filament, which is why I never saw them in natural. I'd say 1 spherical bubble, 300ish microns in size, every 15 feet or so.
So have you had luck coloring it?
I haven't tried. I know Departed has produced consistent results:
I ran clear until the contamination cleared up. I still am getting microscopic bits of black on the surface.
I dried a funnel full of clear on a cookie tray in the oven at 170 F for three hours and ran it. It is amazing. There are no bubbles I can see and the surface finish is very nice.
I would like to have an STL to compare properties. Does anyone have a single stl that could be used to compare properties. (tensile, ultimate strength, bending)
I ran clear until the contamination cleared up. I still am getting microscopic bits of black on the surface.
I dried a funnel full of clear on a cookie tray in the oven at 170 F for three hours and ran it. It is amazing. There are no bubbles I can see and the surface finish is very nice.
I would like to have an STL to compare properties. Does anyone have a single stl that could be used to compare properties. (tensile, ultimate strength, bending)
Nice! What do you mean microscopic - is it something you can take a picture of/see with the naked eye, or are you actually using a microscope?
Here's a tensile test specimen:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:42183
Would you mind doing that youtube video when you get a chance?
For example, the white I use, I print at 45mm/s perimeters, 50mm/s infill.
Getting 120mm/s perimeters, 150mm/s infill now on the same white filament, using SD's hotend instead of QU-BD's. At 210C as indicated by factory thermistor and thermistor table.
It is possible the difference isn't QU-BD's design - it could be my assembly techniques. No skipping at those speeds. This thing is bookin' it - I didn't know the Solidoodle was capable of pushing filament this fast!
Check it out:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WAl5O8bV8mo
I'm working on setting up my spooler with a stepper, which means finally getting around to learning how to use an Arduino. I also have an idea for using a line laser and a linear CCD sensor to measure the filament in realtime. If the sensor is near the nozzle at the point where the filament is stretched to its final size, it might even be possible for the motor to automatically adjust its speed to maintain a certain size.
Are you going to do a true 3d measurement, or are you going to assume that it is always round, and at the correct distance from the laser? When I get my EventorBot, I have plans for the spooler+measurer+autoadjust. With a fairly accurate 3d measurement of the cross sectional volume of the filament.
It started off as a means to measure the filament going into the print head - so that prints would be of much higher quality (i.e. use cheaper filament). But then realized that making good filament yourself should be soo much cheaper (and can be high quality).
And I really like the suggestion of using a T - it really simplifies the mechanics (nothing unscrews) - and a simple juice bottle works as a hopper.
I know somebody mentioned the max diameter of filament the SD will accept...
Seemed like I had trouble with anything much larger than 1.85mm. Could be just me, though.
Seemed like I had trouble with anything much larger than 1.85mm. Could be just me, though.
I have some that measures 1.88. Hopefully I won't have any problems. I raised the temp to drop it to 1.80.
Extruding fine. The thrust bearing is making some noise but seems to be holding up.
would running warm water over the extrusion tip help minimize variotion in the width of the filament? I ask this for no specific reason just a random question.
would running warm water over the extrusion tip help minimize variotion in the width of the filament? I ask this for no specific reason just a random question.
I'm not sure what you mean? The brass nozzle? If you could isolate the plastic from the water, then you'd want to use the coldest water possible, to drop the temperature of the die (and plastic) right before it come out.
If you meant exposing the plastic to water, that's a bad idea. There's a reason filament ships with desiccant. 
elmoret wrote:Seemed like I had trouble with anything much larger than 1.85mm. Could be just me, though.
I have some that measures 1.88. Hopefully I won't have any problems. I raised the temp to drop it to 1.80.
Extruding fine. The thrust bearing is making some noise but seems to be holding up.
Nick got some filament from Octave that measured 1.88mm, and I think it fed fine? Probably just my ghetto hot end I was using previously. No issues feeding since I switched to a brand new SD hotend. The other one (QU-BD), I'd drilled, melted, poked at, drilled again, overheated, etc. It had been abused.
Currently printing at 150mm/s without problems.
frozensoda wrote:would running warm water over the extrusion tip help minimize variotion in the width of the filament? I ask this for no specific reason just a random question.
I'm not sure what you mean? The brass nozzle? If you could isolate the plastic from the water, then you'd want to use the coldest water possible, to drop the temperature of the die (and plastic) right before it come out.
If you meant exposing the plastic to water, that's a bad idea. There's a reason filament ships with desiccant.
hey I don't know anything about this and I could be viewed as wasting time.. if so I am sorry. I thought maybe the water being warm would discourage snappage, while still cooling the filamnt enough to solidify at teh right width. I am sorry for wasting everynes time 
hey I don't know anything about this and I could be viewed as wasting time.. if so I am sorry. I thought maybe the water being warm would discourage snappage, while still cooling the filamnt enough to solidify at teh right width. I am sorry for wasting everynes time
Not a waste of time at all! What do you mean by snappage?
frozensoda wrote:hey I don't know anything about this and I could be viewed as wasting time.. if so I am sorry. I thought maybe the water being warm would discourage snappage, while still cooling the filamnt enough to solidify at teh right width. I am sorry for wasting everynes time
Not a waste of time at all! What do you mean by snappage?
I thought if you went from hot immediatley to super cold it would become very brittle and break.
The industrial extruders run the filament into a water bath to quench it on the way to spooling. I assume there is some kind of dryer before it gets to the winder. A water bath wouldn't be necessary with this extruder because it feeds so slowly. However running it through the middle of a chilled copper coil with a fan blowing through it might be worth trying for faster cooling.
Hi,
I doubt that the hot filament would pick up much moisture with a small recirculating water fountain quench. It could still be hot enough to self dry on the way to the winder. I don't know that it would be worth the effort and mess though. An experiment would be easy enough to devise though.
The industrial extruders run the filament into a water bath to quench it on the way to spooling. I assume there is some kind of dryer before it gets to the winder. A water bath wouldn't be necessary with this extruder because it feeds so slowly. However running it through the middle of a chilled copper coil with a fan blowing through it might be worth trying for faster cooling.
sorry for jumping on the band wagon so late in the game....been following the great work you guys have been doing for some time now
looking to try and replicate your work over here in the uk..once i find somewhere i can get some abs pellets over here
if its trying to cool the filament as fast as possible?....how about a TEC cooler mounted on a heatsink, then the fan can pull some cold air through the fins
only afew bucks on ebay
The industrial extruders run the filament into a water bath to quench it on the way to spooling. I assume there is some kind of dryer before it gets to the winder. A water bath wouldn't be necessary with this extruder because it feeds so slowly. However running it through the middle of a chilled copper coil with a fan blowing through it might be worth trying for faster cooling.
@voltsep I am presently in GB and should be able to find sources for ABS as I used to do injection moulding but the thing is what MFI grade to get?
It's the index of how runny it is and a low MFI is a stiff flow grade, high MFI is easy flow. Presumably easy flow drools more but stiff flow is very stodgy.
Plastribution Ltd. is a possible source but you are unlikely to find anywhere that sells less than 25Kgs:
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