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SoliForum - 3D Printing Community → Filastruder → Filawinder - Fried my Nano?
I didn't ask for help because I'm tired of your condescending attitude. Ever since day 1 you have been 3xtremely rude and very condescending. Customers don't like being treated like shit. You could learn a lot from your partner Ian. Professional, curious and friendly.
Kind of overreacting there. He's trying to help, but can only work with what you give him.
As for the hopper, FWIW, mine overflows a little as well. I just wrapped some electrical tape around the hole to prevent the pellets from falling out. I didn't lose many, maybe 30 in a few hours of runtime. But it was irritating so I prevented it. Looking at the posted picture, I think my hopper is on backwards. I'll try flipping it around to see if that helps. Thinking about it, I can see how that would push pellets out.
As for the flow issue. If you have the filter installed try removing it. Maybe something plugged it up a bit. What ABS are you trying to extrude? MG94, the type that came with it, extrudes great at 180. GP35 does as well. For diameter, hotter will make it thinner, further from the ground will as well. I think you have a winder, but you can make the drop loop larger or smaller. I'm on a 3mm machine, but I can easily get 2.5mm +/- 0.1mm dropping to the ground. I could make it thicker, but 2.5mm works fine.
While extruding, with the thermocouple installed in the hole on the side of the nozzle, autotune the controller. It helps more than I expected. And having tried higher temps for Nylon, my filastruder can't do much more than 210C. I have no idea how you made it to 260.
I've definitely not ever meant to be condescending. If I came across that way, I apologize - truly. Tone is difficult to convey over text. When I ask questions like "why would you do X", it isn't out of condescension, it is about trying to learn what led to that so I can help other folks avoid it in the future. When I say things like "after running 4 days straight", I'm trying to add background information for context. As for our emails, you are welcome to post them as long as they are posted in their entirety for context's sake.
I've never tried mounting the hopper the other direction, but I can see how pellets might get pushed out if it was mounted backwards. I thought the image on the first page of the instructions showed which way to mount the hopper, but I'll add a note in the next revision of the instructions.
Unfortunately that is what happened I mounted the hopper in the opposite direction which after I started looking at it and thinking things through as the worm gear starts pushing the filament or pellets towards the extruder it would start bunching up and causing it to overflow as soon as I switched around it worked correctly so unfortunately that was my stupidity for not thinking about that first.
Maybe a slight over reaction. If you read his posts, most are condescending and rude, some may not be as quick to pick up as others, and maybe was too eager to get it going and over looked something. No need to really be so condescending and rude, honestly.
agilliam: As far as your problem, if your using ABS, make sure you clean the melt filter out as new setups tend to get quite a bit of filings at the melt filter (the end of the pipe has a slight decrease in diameter due to threading and cutting. After a few uses, that will stop and you shouldn't get any metal.
Secondly, the hopper put on in the reverse manner will cause pellets to build up in the front where its pushing into the barrel for the filastruder causing it to overflow. Flipping it around will cause them to push back up inside the bottle, vs over flowing.
When you switch to PLA, its a whole new learning curve. You will need to drill out the nozzle or make your own slightly bigger, or youll need to run colder.
Lastly, in reference to the PCB and files, PC boards are created quite a bit different then conventional types back when diy ham radio. Play around with Eagle Cad and it will make more sense. They do it this way now because it requires less time for etching, and also gives a bigger surface for + and - and helps tremendously with diagnosing and testing.
If you need any further help, contact me and I will be more than happy to share with you some helpful hints!
Mopar,
Yeah changing the hopper resolved the issue. Sorry took so long to reply my daughter was sick from before Christmas and she got me sick too. Ended up with pneumonia and in the hospital. Ugh
I made a few changes to the struder and now it's working excellent. The filawinder is very touchy as far as the hall sensor is, I'm going to replace it and try it, but it has been winding 1lb of filament for the last many hours... it takes 12 hours roughly to make 1 lb of PLA. Is this normal?
I was messing with eagle, and it is very easy to learn. Just for ease of etching at home I modified the sensor board of the winder to be single sided, printed and looks great. Haven't etched it yet though.
I was able to print the filawinder gears using taulman bridge nylon and finally no delamination! Apparently the first roll the vendor sent me had been water logged.
Question with abs.... I can only print with infill of 40% or higher otherwise they delaminate badly. Is this normal? Do you need to do larger infill than pla?
Thanks for the replies!
12 hours per pound of PLA is on the slow side. You could increase that by extruding at a higher temperature, but that will require drilling the nozzle out to be larger. It will also increase the filament diameter variance. Like most things, it is a balance between speed and quality.
It is not normal to experience delamination with ABS. I have printed 100% infill parts before without delamination. Generally delamination means the printer's nozzle temperature is too low, or you are underextruding while printing. It is also possible to experience delamination if the polymer is not dry, as you experienced with Bridge. It is a good idea to store filament in a sealed bag with dry dessicant.
SoliForum - 3D Printing Community → Filastruder → Filawinder - Fried my Nano?
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