26 Reply by wardjr

  • wardjr
  • wardjr
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  • From: Minnesota
  • Registered: 2013-06-10
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Re: Setting the starting Z point

What version RH? For you I'd recommend version 95f and version 1.0.0RC of Slic3r.  At some point slic3r switched the infill settings from a number between 0 and 1 to a percentage or something like that.  This means profiles from an older version through that error.  There are other better slicers out there but Slic3r is where most of the users here will be able to help.
Abs on your hot end if properly PID tuned should be around 235.  The not so easy to catch point you made is the first layer isn't much more than a very thin layer.  That sounds like your nozzle is to close to the bed.  From earlier posts you've been playing with your custom start code.  Set that Z height to zero and use the screw to adjust your first layer height. 
There is no magic software that is going to change the fact that you need to thoroughly learn the functions of said software.  Stop jumping around and focus on one problem at a time. 
I offer this advice based on a complete understanding of your exact machine and setup.  You can do this and we are all here to help. 
You also don't want someone else's settings and profiles.  I create or adjust a profile before every single slice.  There are that many variables, so in order to consistently produce quality prints you're going to have to understand them.

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27 Reply by heartless

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  • heartless
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  • From: Northcentral Wisconsin
  • Registered: 2015-04-08
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Re: Setting the starting Z point

I am in complete agreement with wardjr about learning to use what you have correctly.

There are no magic numbers, or magic software, for that matter, that will instantly "fix" all of your problems. Learning to set up and use the software correctly is the key.

as for "custom" start codes - the only thing I have on my printers is a G28 command - that is it, nothing else. I don't have a need for anything else. I guess I am a believer in the K.I.S.S. principle - it works for me. wink I guess I don't really understand the need of a bunch of custom g-code to start a printer - just complicates things.

I don't use a Z offset - the bed is leveled manually and it is at a point these days that I don't need to mess with it much, just a slight tweak periodically to maintain the correct height. I can run multiple prints without touching it.

I set my bed & hotend temps manually, and I wait for everything to come to temp before starting a print. (but then, i never leave my printers unattended - ever)

Slicing is tweaked for each individual print, depending on the needs of that particular piece, and is usually done while the bed is preheating.

FWIW, I use RH v1.0.6 and am using the latest version of Slic3r with it. I use the same software for all 4 of my printers ~ 2 SD4s (1 highly modded, the other more stock), a FT Prusa i3 and a FT Kossel ~ and they all work fine with it after taking the time to set them up correctly. I have run 3 printers (3 separate instances of RH) at the same time from the same computer - haven't tried all 4 at once yet...

In all honesty, after seeing a video of the basic settings in Simplify3D, I can't justify the cost of it. I can do pretty much everything in Slic3r that S3D does and then some - like tweaking extrusion widths for better infill of fine things like letters - S3D can't do that from what I have seen of it.
S3D may have a couple of settings that Slic3r doesn't (yet), like custom supports and the ability to have different infill rates on one print, but those are not huge priorities for me and there are other ways of producing custom supports if I should need them.

Taking the time to learn & fully utilize a perfectly fine free program will go much further than throwing good money at overpriced software that you don't really need will.

just my 0.02 cents worth on the subject. do with it what you will. smile

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