Filawinder - Fried my Nano? (Page 1 of 2)

Other than making sure you have the right board picked and the correct serial port picked in the ide you shouldn't have to do anything special to upload firmware to the board.  I would try unplugging the nano from the winder pcb its possible it could be a problem with your wiring preventing it from booting correctly.

If your sure that you picked the right serial port and board/processor from the ide menus and it won't upload firmware or communicate with serial bus with the pcb unplugged and eliminated as a problem, I'd say you have a fried nano.   More importantly is why did your nano fry?  These arduinos are pretty stable if they aren't subjected to circuit wiring problems... but they can not take much abuse such as shorts or voltage to the wrong pin etc.

Edit:
After rereading your post I would say since your having trouble compiling it I would say definitely double check your board and serial port choices
see here Sections 7 & 8 if your not sure what I'm talking about.  You want the nano board, bee sure to pick the 328 processor one.  and your serial port can change so you may have to try several before you figure out which one is yours

Ian should be by to help with the nano shortly, but what issues were you having with the Filastruder?

Ian,
Do you have any of the winder kits on some website where I may purchase in less than 4~5 weeks.
please forgive me if this is not the place to ask this question.
I'm a bit desperate.

thanks

Same here. All it does is move the servo a few degrees when I turn it on. No LEDs turn on, nothing. When i plug it into my computer it gives me an overpower error, making me believe it is a short (but not from a switch, I checked).

EDIT: I took the nano off the board (duh, I probably should have done that first off.) and realized the board was not fried, but am still facing the same "symptoms."
The potentiometer as far as I can tell is perfectly fine (I had some 10k and 20k pots laying around, tried most of the with same result).
I tried reflashing the .ino v9 but I kept getting a Compiling error from the code.

EDIT2: I should probably not be posting on this thread since it is not a fried nano... sorry just realized this

Well it seems to work somewhat, except the hall sensor doesn't see the magnet. I checked to make sure I have polarity correct by using the same type of magnet in tweezers and with both sides passing by the sensor, the servo doesn't move.

I don't know what is going on but I really would like to get this working as I have something I'm working on that requires custom filament coloring.

I downloaded the eagle files and I'm very confused because the board seems to be incomplete.

The hall sensor on the .brd file only shows 1 leg wired. On the .sch file, no where does it show t he l7805 voltage regulator. Are these old?


I know possibly some of the legs use the ground plane on the pcb, but nothing is shown, I'm totally confused on this design. I can make sense that the back ground or negative plane is shared by all components as I can see even the caps are dead ends unless it shares the ground plane on the pcb which would make sense. It's been a long time since I've made pcb. So I know things and ways have changed.

I'm at a complete standstill with the filawinder. The filastruder works fine as far as I have gotten to test it.

Has the knob begun to control the motor, or does it spin at top speed no matter what while in manual?  Does it do the same thing in Auto?  If the knob won't control the motor but it controls the servo, the MOSFET might have failed.   If the hall doesn't respond, it might be due to the left and right buttons being switched around.  That would cause the left limit to be set further right than the right limit, which confuses the guide.

As Tim said, the regulator is the 7805 at the top to the right of the power jack, and there are planes for GND and VCC.

Unfortunately insulation doesn't end up reducing the gearbox noise very much. I already use the quietest spur gear setup that this manufacturer offers, and moving to a worm gear or similar helps noise but costs more - 2-3x more. As an option, you can dial down the voltage (CV) on the stall protection board which reduces noise at the cost of extrusion speed.

Tim, I totally missed that ic1/l7805. 

I ended up taking my multimeter and reading everything and found that 1 diode was bad. I'm assuming in my first post when I mentioned the 2 cases of the hexfet/transistors were touching and they were hot that it burned I title only had 4ohm resistance and should have been in the mega ohm. I replaced it with a in4001 diode. I also noticed that the hall effect sensor looked a little off alignment. I went to take readings and found 1 leg completely broken off. Those have very thin weak legs anyways. So I dropped some solder on all 3 legs and fired it up and presto, it's now functioning correctly.

Ian thank you and Tim both for responding. As I stated the last time I etched or designed my own pc board was for ham radio and I didn't use software lol. We used either a pen, traces you peel and stick, or we just used pre padded perfect boards. Anyways I finally figured it out and I am playing with eagle a lot more from now on.

As I stated it's up and working and seems to work very well. It's been running with nothing spooling for 10 minutes and the servo is moving as it should.

I have to say, Ian you did a great job on the filawinder. The only thing that I would consider doing. Just my opinion. Include the printed parts or come up with a nice laser cut housing for the switches. The rest is cool.

Tim, your filastruder is awesome as well. The only suggestion I could say is maybe insulate the Gear box area to dampen the sounds. Not something you want roaring in the next room, but don't want to put in shop or garage due to fire risk..

I'm planning on coming up with an arduino add on with some features that hopefully you maybeable to include or could be an optional package for this setup.

I guess I spoke too soon. I looked down and noticed the spool is winding but it's not moving the servo again. It appears this thing is very sensative and tempermental.. I don't know what to do. This thing works with all the other functions. Such as controlling servo with knob. But the dang hall effect sensor isn't working it worked when I bench tested it but now nothing

I'll have to take pics in the am. I have a video but won't let me attach it here from my phone. Anyways the pellets are like being forced back up the funnel and overflowing from around the inlet of the 2 Leiter bottle threaded part. There is an opening in that area that the pellets back up and dump out.

As far as temp, I started at 160 and it wouldn't extrude but an inch in 20 minutes. And the motor was so dead slow and bogging down like a loud roar and nothing was coming out. I did the auto tune on the pid controller and everything checked temp with another source and it reads right. But at 160 it would take 4 days to extrude 1 spool and probably burn the motor up.

I'll have to get a video and upload it so you can see. Something just isn't right.

Excuse me, I made a type-o. I meant 180. Not 160. Sorry I made a mistake in my post.

You hadn't said anything about 180C yet, due to the typo.

260C is unreasonable, in stock form it can't get that hot. Where did you install the thermocouple?

Rather than just setting things 80 degrees hotter than the instructions say, why not stop and ask for help? It seems strange to write off something so important as a typo in the instructions when this has been around for a few years with over 2,000 users.

As for the hopper, that's very strange as well. Here's a shot of a hopper that has been running for 4 days straight, the pellets sit about an inch from the top of the hopper. Odd that you have to use an allen key to poke at the hopper, I've never had to do that with around 3500 hours of runtime.

Some photos of your setup would be helpful.