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SoliForum - 3D Printing Community → Help/Repair/Maintenance → New Workbench
I went with .2mm offset and it seems to have fixed my extruding issues. Also went to the store and couldn't find the aquanet between 4 different stores, so I went with an extra strong hold aerosol hairspray and we will find out if it works.
Check the ingredients and see if it says vinyl copolymer. That is the key. Others will destroy adhesion.
Check the ingredients and see if it says vinyl copolymer. That is the key. Others will destroy adhesion.
It says : VA/CROTONATES/VINYL NEODECANOATE COPOLYMER <---- What I'm Looking for?
Every time I get a config working It only gives me those results once and then causes a different issue or goes back to what it was doing before the last change. Right now I have my z-offset changed to 0.5 and its still dragging the extruder head through what it just printed and it hardly extrudes no matter how much I adjust the extrude speed..
Z offset is different than z lift. If it's layer 1 that is when z offset applies. All other layers is when z lift applies. You need to first establish free air extrusion and ensure that is flowing properly. This will be when you get the temp in the ballpark. It sounds like you are maybe not saving and then selecting the saved profile before you slice. Have you done extrusion calibration?
Yes I got the extrusion calibration done and saved, it seems to be working well. however when I start printing on the plate is when I have the issues. I have the extruder temp set to 225C and the bed temp set at 100C.
So do you get nice flow when you extrude into the air? Is the filament slipping on the drive gear and is that gear clean? Is there enough tension on the idler wheel?
All we can do is ask questions until you come across the solution. Perhaps a video would help us trouble shoot your issues.
Ok, I'll have to try and record one tomorrow, and yes it seems like a steady flow in mid air and it would seem that its all working well.
Let me know if this is correct: you can get it to print, but then when you start another print, it's printing too close to the glass again?
First thing that jumped into my mind was an auto level issue. Watch your printers auto level arm as it runs the auto level sequence... if the "sleeve" the arm slides into is moving(even just a little) when the probe hits the glass the measurements will be off.
If you notice the sleeve moving, or even want to check, then read the next paragraph.
The sleeve is connected to the carriage with two screws that go into brass inserts. One screw is to the right of the arm and visible. The other screw is behind the arm when it's in the sleeve. Unscrew the tiny screws holding the endstop onto the arm. Then slide the arm down and out of the sleeve. Unscrew the two screws holding the sleeve to the carriage. Check to make sure both of the brass inserts are there. Our Workbench was missing the "hidden" screw insert, which caused the sleeve to pivot, just a little bit, around the other screw whenever the probe touched the glass.
First thing that jumped into my mind was an auto level issue. Watch your printers auto level arm as it runs the auto level sequence... if the "sleeve" the arm slides into is moving(even just a little) when the probe hits the glass the measurements will be off.
If you notice the sleeve moving, or even want to check, then read the next paragraph.
The sleeve is connected to the carriage with two screws that go into brass inserts. One screw is to the right of the arm and visible. The other screw is behind the arm when it's in the sleeve. Unscrew the tiny screws holding the endstop onto the arm. Then slide the arm down and out of the sleeve. Unscrew the two screws holding the sleeve to the carriage. Check to make sure both of the brass inserts are there. Our Workbench was missing the "hidden" screw insert, which caused the sleeve to pivot, just a little bit, around the other screw whenever the probe touched the glass.
Okay, I'll have to try this. My apologies for not getting a video uploaded yet, my unit went to 24 hour manning for most of the week. Also, if I remember correctly, it has been expressed how many aren't a fan of the auto level? What would I have to do to get rid of the autolevel on my prints?
No worries, I just want to see you up and printing again!
IMO the auto level is fancy cover up for something mechanical you should have to do anyway. Get the bed level. It's simple and once it's level it'll stay level for quite some time, I don't understand why so many people want to auto level. Having never used a prox. sensor I can't say wether or not that works better, but using an endstop that you have to manually slide back down each print, like the workbench does, screams "ISSUE THAT NEEDS FIXED."
If you want to remove the auto level read this thread: http://www.soliforum.com/topic/12823/re … s-endstop/
It would appear that following up and looking into things more than I previously had and following some advice given, I have the workbench printing pretty consistently now. I need to work on getting abs to stick to the base though. PLA hasnt been a problem but abs is a pain.
ABS is a pain. Try either a misting of hairspray(people swear by Aquanet Extra Super Hold, purple can) on the glass, or rubbing a glue stick(people swear by Elmer's Purple Glue Stick) lightly onto the glass before heating the bed up.
Personally, I've tried both, and Aquanet works perfect for PLA and ABS prints that have small 'footprints' on the bed. For large, flat objects, hairspray didn't cut it for me and Elmer's purple glue stick works perfectly. My bed temps are: PLA @ 60C and ABS and 110C-115C. Enclosing the open sides and top will help keep the temp inside the printer a bit more stable for ABS also.
ABS is a pain. Try either a misting of hairspray(people swear by Aquanet Extra Super Hold, purple can) on the glass, or rubbing a glue stick(people swear by Elmer's Purple Glue Stick) lightly onto the glass before heating the bed up.
Personally, I've tried both, and Aquanet works perfect for PLA and ABS prints that have small 'footprints' on the bed. For large, flat objects, hairspray didn't cut it for me and Elmer's purple glue stick works perfectly. My bed temps are: PLA @ 60C and ABS and 110C-115C. Enclosing the open sides and top will help keep the temp inside the printer a bit more stable for ABS also.
Ok sweet, do you mind if I ask what your extruding temps are so I know if im in the ballpark? Im using PLA:205 and ABS:220. Also it seems that I get some separation in the layers on my prints, it seems a couple things may cause it, but I'm truthfukky not sure where to start?
On our Workbench I print ABS @ 220C and I print PLA @ 180C. These are a little different then your filaments recommended temps because, and someone please correct me if I'm wrong, stock Solidoodle hotends have their thermistors in a different location then most hotends.
These temps are not an absolute, especially with ABS, your layer separation could be caused by a hotend that's not hot or cool enough, especially if the layers are separating in the middle of the print. Here is a customizable temp calibration piece (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:915435) and I'd recommend customizing one with points at 215C-235C. Print that out and let it cool, then examine for layer separation during the different temps to find out which one your filament likes best, repeat as needed.
this is along the issue that I get, it works well as it begins but the higher up it goes the more the resolution drops...
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