Solidoodle 2

I have a standart SD 2 0.4mm (0.35mm?) i guess.
with an 8" x 8" Heated Bed (wired?) do i need to set the bed shape also 8" x 8 " because all my prints are not centered.
didnt calibreted E steps/mm

okay what is wired, is that my heated bed is 20cm x 20cm and the dimenstion are the same as these from the SD3.
could it be that i have a SD 3 here? or is there a SD2 with 20 x 20 bedsize ?

iam confused and i can lower the bed to exact 20 cm

okay i have a SD 3 .... dios mio iam just a bit retarded i guess.....

well that explains a lot........

okay he took almost 15 mm more my E is default E: 115.00
do i need to change it to 100 ?

your right!
its 108 maybe 107 i try this out more.
whats next ))) but its now almost 100mm maybe i marked a bit wrong so .

okay got that is all the same bed level now

but first of all thank you so mutch with your help til here
helped me a lot

I use Slic3r so my info will pertain to that particular slicing program...

Open Slic3r by clicking on the configure button (latest version used here - v1.2.9)

In the "filament settings" tab, under "filament", make the following changes -

don't forget to save your changes when done.

Then, in the "printer setting" tab, under "extruder 1", make sure your nozzle size is set correctly.
0.4 nozzle should be set at 0.48
0.35 nozzle should be set at 0.42

generally speaking, nozzle diameter should be set to 120% of actual nozzle size - i believe this is to take die swell into account (?).

after making the changes (be sure to save everything) you want to select the profile you have created in RH's slicing tab, load up a calibration cube and print a single wall (1 perimeter)/zero infill version of it about 5-10mm high

you only need to print the cube tall enough to get a good measurement of wall thickness - no need to print the whole thing.

(have to head to work now...)

wow this is awesome thank you so mutch all of you

I couldn´t have said it better myself !

i will test my settings now, after this i upload some picture of what i got..(maybe i will put all of this in a nice post together, later on )

back to the single wall calibration cube...

after printing one out with the above settings, use your calipers to measure the thickness of all 4 walls. Keep the angle of the caliper jaws low, you only want to grab 1 or 2 layers - not the whole wall (see green line in pic below) Be careful not get into the layer seam area as well - stay towards the center of the wall.

make note of all 4 wall measurements. Add them up, then divide by 4 to get the average wall thickness.
We are shooting for an ideal wall thickness of 0.48mm

if your wall average is higher than 0.48, we need to make an adjustment to the extrusion multiplier..

the math is:
     0.48 / your average = new extrusion multiplier

Example:
     0.48 / 0.52 = 0.92307..... 

our new extrusion multiplier would be 0.92 (round to 2 decimal places)

enter that number into the appropriate box on the "filament settings" tab of slic3r and save it.

Print another calibration cube and measure it to verify the wall thickness is correct, if not, tweak your extrusion multiplier number a little up or down to get as close as possible to the 0.48 average (if too thick, try slightly smaller (using our example number - 0.91) if too thin, try slightly higher (example: 0.93) you can take it out to 3 decimal places if needed, but it wont make that much of a difference.

also be sure to take a good look at the wall itself - once dialed in it should look something like this:

the layers are nice and straight & pretty smooth, no diagonal pattern showing (moire)
If you do have a strong diagonal pattern, it will be difficult to get good wall thickness readings.
You may need to tweak the voltage of the extruder stepper driver to reduce the moire to a less noticeable level.