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SoliForum - 3D Printing Community → Help/Repair/Maintenance → Curling and Bed Leveling
Using a glass print surface and hairspray and assuming bed leveling is the primary cause of curling which side of print bed needs slight tweak? If it curls on the left for example do I raise the bed higher on the left side or lower it?
Curling is caused by poor adhesion. Poor adhesion is caused by the first layer not being squished enough due to the bed being too far from the nozzle.
The best thing to do is get a set of feeler or leaf gauges. Take out the .15mm. Now start a print. The moment it begins to lay the first layer pull the power. Now by hand move the head to each corner above its adjuster and set it so the gauge just passed between the nozzle and bed with slight drag. Repeat this on all four corners a couple of times till they are all the same.
If you stiil have curling then your bed temp is wrong or not as reported, yout hairspray or other adhesion agent is not effective, or you may have cool draft hitting the print area.
Curling is caused by poor adhesion. Poor adhesion is caused by the first layer not being squished enough due to the bed being too far from the nozzle.
The best thing to do is get a set of feeler or leaf gauges. Take out the .15mm. Now start a print. The moment it begins to lay the first layer pull the power. Now by hand move the head to each corner above its adjuster and set it so the gauge just passed between the nozzle and bed with slight drag. Repeat this on all four corners a couple of times till they are all the same.
If you stiil have curling then your bed temp is wrong or not as reported, yout hairspray or other adhesion agent is not effective, or you may have cool draft hitting the print area.
Why even start a print job if not to see exactly where the curling happens? I haven't found a metric system gauge at quite that thickness so I just use a short stack of post-it slips. Fewer than 5 stapled together usually. Works generally but I don't think I have the corners leveled equally. It seems like only a quarter turn closer and the first layer is rough and the nozzle scraps on it, and a quarter turn more space and it slightly curls on one side.
I use a ton of aquanet so I don't think it's that and the print bed feels pretty hot.
I find that my printer needs a little level adjustment before almost every print. I use a 5-6 line skirt. It usually takes 1-2 lines before filament even starts coming out. Then I adjust each screw a little bit at a time until I get a good line all the way around the print. Then when it goes to start printing my object I know that it is dialed in.
carl_m1968 wrote:Curling is caused by poor adhesion. Poor adhesion is caused by the first layer not being squished enough due to the bed being too far from the nozzle.
The best thing to do is get a set of feeler or leaf gauges. Take out the .15mm. Now start a print. The moment it begins to lay the first layer pull the power. Now by hand move the head to each corner above its adjuster and set it so the gauge just passed between the nozzle and bed with slight drag. Repeat this on all four corners a couple of times till they are all the same.
If you stiil have curling then your bed temp is wrong or not as reported, yout hairspray or other adhesion agent is not effective, or you may have cool draft hitting the print area.
Why even start a print job if not to see exactly where the curling happens? I haven't found a metric system gauge at quite that thickness so I just use a short stack of post-it slips. Fewer than 5 stapled together usually. Works generally but I don't think I have the corners leveled equally. It seems like only a quarter turn closer and the first layer is rough and the nozzle scraps on it, and a quarter turn more space and it slightly curls on one side.
I use a ton of aquanet so I don't think it's that and the print bed feels pretty hot.
Get this and stop using paper.
http://www.amazon.com/OEMTools-25025-Bl … eler+gauge
I just took it apart and pulled out the .15. .20, and .28 blades.
Why even start a print job if not to see exactly where the curling happens? I haven't found a metric system gauge at quite that thickness so I just use a short stack of post-it slips. Fewer than 5 stapled together usually. Works generally but I don't think I have the corners leveled equally. It seems like only a quarter turn closer and the first layer is rough and the nozzle scraps on it, and a quarter turn more space and it slightly curls on one side.
I use a ton of aquanet so I don't think it's that and the print bed feels pretty hot.
I used to use business cards and stuff, but anything made of paper will tare or compress, so it's not very useful.
I use a standard feeler gauge, not metric. I use the 0.004" (4 1/1000th) which is ore or less .1mm. My first layer height is .2mm, so it gets nice and squishy. Whatever your first layer thickness is, your feeler gauge should be about half that. So if you're plan on using .3mm for your first layer, then you feeler gauge should be 1.5mm, or 0.006".
I've used glass and Aquanet Super Hold #2 (Blue can) for about 2 years, and it works great. Do I have the occasional corner lift, sure, but it's usually because that area didn't have a good layer of Aquanet.
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