1 Topic by dineshwong

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Topic: Bad prints

I have been printing on my Prusa i3 well for the last few weeks, But earlier this week I was experimenting with the process parameters on Simplify 3D and also used some new filaments like Protopasta Carbon Fiber and T-glase

Now, all of a sudden, all my prints are going bad, in terms of dimensions and stringing and everything. I did reset everything back to original and default setting, but this is still happening.

Any clue on what I am missing ?

See attached, part size : D: 10mm H: 25mm
http://soliforum.com/i/?K9bk0ng.jpg
http://soliforum.com/i/?6s99ol4.jpg

2 Reply by wardjr

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Re: Bad prints

Partial clog? What hot end, E3d?
What material are you now trying to print with?

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3 Reply by dineshwong (edited by dineshwong 2015-10-17 20:18:03)

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Re: Bad prints

Sorry, I forgot to mention, It is PLA right now (yellow ones) 1.75mm
its a metal hot end from HICTOP prusa i3 and its a direct drive extruder

4 Reply by carl_m1968

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Re: Bad prints

If your nozzle is brass and you ran CF filament then you probably damaged your nozzle and the filament is not feed as it should. If you want to run CF you should switch to a stainless steel nozzle or other hard metal. CF is very abrasive. It could also be a partial clog. Especially if you have used wood filament.

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5 Reply by wardjr

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Re: Bad prints

I'd be betting on partial clog.

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

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6 Reply by dineshwong (edited by dineshwong 2015-10-17 22:36:08)

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Re: Bad prints

Crap, that sucks.. Thanks for the info. I just took out my nozzle and cleaned it, although i could not completely do it.
(edit)**I am presently using a brass MK6 nozzle. not sure if I can find a similar one in stainless steel..

Also, I am confused on making a choice bw the MK10 stainless steel and the E3D type nozzle , should I also buy a new thermal barrier to match the same ?

7 Reply by wardjr

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Re: Bad prints

You will want to ensure that your parts are compatible, nothing worse than a leak.

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

wardjr's Website

8 Reply by dineshwong (edited by dineshwong 2015-10-18 20:23:43)

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Re: Bad prints

wardjr wrote:

You will want to ensure that your parts are compatible, nothing worse than a leak.

I will check the inner diameter of the holes, I was reading about using a stainless steel nozzle and found that stainless steel has very poor thermal conductivity, does it mean that I need set the temperature value higher than prescribed to keep the nozzle heated to the that temp ?

carl_m1968 wrote:

If your nozzle is brass and you ran CF filament then you probably damaged your nozzle and the filament is not feed as it should. If you want to run CF you should switch to a stainless steel nozzle or other hard metal. CF is very abrasive. It could also be a partial clog. Especially if you have used wood filament.

I have not used wood filament, But I am planning to use the magnetic filament, So I am gonna need a stainless steel nozzle I believe.
Any idea about the poor thermal conductivity of stainless affecting the print settings ?

I tried cleaning the nozzle twice, still the prints are bad, I believe I have damaged this one for good.

9 Reply by heartless

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Re: Bad prints

if you made the switch to an E3D v6 hotend, they do have hardened steel nozzles now made specifically for running the abrasive filaments like the carbon fiber and others.

for more info, read here: http://e3d-online.com/is-carbon-killing-your-nozzle

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10 Reply by dineshwong

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Re: Bad prints

heartless wrote:

if you made the switch to an E3D v6 hotend, they do have hardened steel nozzles now made specifically for running the abrasive filaments like the carbon fiber and others.

for more info, read here: http://e3d-online.com/is-carbon-killing-your-nozzle

Oh God, i believe this is how my nozzle looks like. Thanks for sharing this. $27 for one nozzle, hope its worth it.

11 Reply by heartless

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Re: Bad prints

no problem.

and just an FYI-FWIW - the E3D nozzles fit my FolgerTech Prusa i3 hotend fine and I think that is a Mk 8 type, just make sure you tighten it properly so it doesn't leak (heat then final tighten)

SD4 #1 & #2 - Lawsy carriages, E3D v6, Rumba controller board, mirror bed plate, X motor fan, upgraded PSU & Mica bed heater
SD4 #3 - in the works ~ Folgertech FT-5, rev 1
Printit Industries Beta Tester - Horizon H1

12 Reply by dineshwong

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Re: Bad prints

UPDATE:

The x-axis pulley was the culprit. It loosened on the stepper and hence was slipping, although the belts were tight. I should have checked, but missed it somehow. I tightened it now, but still doesn't give the tight grip even with 2 grub screws (due to the smooth shaft surface i guess). guess this should come under periodic calibration