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Topic: Help with print quality and or Slic3r settings

So I bought a used Solidoodle 3 online and have been getting it into better printing condition and right now am at kind of a road block. Whenever I print out objects with a lot of head movement I get globs and strings almost everywhere. Additionally, my surface finish is very rough. Below I will bullet other items of interest and pictures of a few prints and my current Slic3r settings.

- I have done all belt tension details from online
- I have modified machine so that I have a direct Y stepper motor, instead of the Y stepper and that small belt that warps the Y rod.
- By doing the direct Y stepper I was able to get perfect circles, before with Y stepper and belt my calibration cube prints were not even, now they are with direct Y stepper.
- I have calibrated my extrusion rate per online video that shows updating Solidoodle firmware from repeteir. I now get almost perfect consumption of 100mm filament when I do the manual extrude.
- I have the standard Solidoodle hot end, I used to print at 220 F but have stepped down to 200, 190, and now 185 F to see if this helps, and it does not.
- I have banding issues but I know that is a separate correction I need to make later.

If anyone can help or post their best setting I would much appreciate that! I am only trying to print at 0.3mm now.

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Re: Help with print quality and or Slic3r settings

Check your Retraction Length and Speed settings under Slic3r Configuration (Printer Settings Tab - Extruder 1).

Try increasing the speed and length a bit and see how that works.

SD2 - Stock - Enclosure - Heated Bed - Glass Plate - Auto Fire Extinguisher
Ord Bot Hadron - RAMPS 1.4 - Bulldog XL - E3D v6 - 10" x 10" PCB Heated Build w/SSR - Glass Plate
Thanks for All of Your Help!

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Re: Help with print quality and or Slic3r settings

IronMan wrote:

Check your Retraction Length and Speed settings under Slic3r Configuration (Printer Settings Tab - Extruder 1).

Try increasing the speed and length a bit and see how that works.

Right now I have

Length: 1 mm
Lift Z: 1 mm
Speed: 30 mm/s
Extra length on restart: 0 mm
Minimum travel after retraction: 2 mm
Retract on layer change: checked
Wipe while retracting: unchecked

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Re: Help with print quality and or Slic3r settings

have you done a proper filament calibration?
as in measure the diameter of the filament in multiple locations with digital calipers (7 or more measurements over a couple of yards/meters) and calculated an average diameter for that roll?
the average diameter would then be entered into your slicing program - in Slic3r it would be on the filament settings tab > filament diameter

Set the extrusion multiplier to 1 and print a single wall calibration box (20mm x 20mm x min of 10mm high - height doesn't matter too much as you will be stopping it before it prints fully anyway) with these settings;
perimeters - 1
top layers - 0
bottom layers - 2
infill - 0
on the print settings tab, under advanced - your default extrusion width should be set to 0.48 for the stock SD hotend (0.4 nozzle)
1st layer = 100% (or more, I use 100% and it works fine)
leave everything else at zeros for the default width

start the print, let it get 5-10mms high and kill the print.
remove the box and measure wall thickness on each wall (try to only get one or 2 layers for your measurement) with your calipers making a note of what the measurements are.
add them up and average. you are shooting for a wall thickness of 0.48mm - chances are the walls will be thicker than that for the first print in this calibration.

use the measured average to calculate what your extrusion multiplier should be set to
example:
measured wall = 0.52 averaged
formula: 0.48 (desired size)/0.52 (measured size)=0.923....
0.923 is what you enter into the extrusion multiplier box - save the profile, re-slice your box and print again - measure and average and make adjustments as needed to the extrusion multiplier to obtain a wall thickness of 0.48

additionally - every roll of filament will be different - this calibration should be done for each new roll you run.
You can save a new profile for each roll if you change colors frequently like i do (I have roughly 30 rolls, all different colors/materials) just be sure to name it appropriately so you know what profile goes with what roll.

SD4 #1 & #2 - Lawsy carriages, E3D v6, Rumba controller board, mirror bed plate, X motor fan, upgraded PSU & Mica bed heater
SD4 #3 - in the works ~ Folgertech FT-5, rev 1
Printit Industries Beta Tester - Horizon H1

5

Re: Help with print quality and or Slic3r settings

Here are pics of my prints

http://soliforum.com/i/?FXQj5jc.jpg
http://soliforum.com/i/?WIcUXkQ.jpg
http://soliforum.com/i/?agRvOrR.jpg
http://soliforum.com/i/?6LpyBEd.jpg
http://soliforum.com/i/?0lhQmW7.jpg

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Re: Help with print quality and or Slic3r settings

OK...looks like over-extruding to me!  Your Retraction settings should be fine.

Do what heartless said above!

SD2 - Stock - Enclosure - Heated Bed - Glass Plate - Auto Fire Extinguisher
Ord Bot Hadron - RAMPS 1.4 - Bulldog XL - E3D v6 - 10" x 10" PCB Heated Build w/SSR - Glass Plate
Thanks for All of Your Help!

7

Re: Help with print quality and or Slic3r settings

thanks heartless, let me do all those steps and see if that corrects. So none of you think it is a temperature related issue?

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Re: Help with print quality and or Slic3r settings

crazyman2099 wrote:

So none of you think it is a temperature related issue?

I was just about to post something like this. So I do wink

Fat kids are harder to kidnap!

9 (edited by heartless 2015-10-22 16:12:35)

Re: Help with print quality and or Slic3r settings

temp could be a part of your issues. Because Solidoodle placed the thermistor on the outside of the heater block, your reported temps are going to be lower than the "recommended" temps for the material you are using.

On my SD4 with the stock hotend, I run the following:
PLA - usually between 165 & 170C
ABS - typically 200 - 205C

Different brands may vary a little more from those, and each machine is a little different - kind of need to run a temp calibration print (search thingiverse) to figure out what is going to work best for you/the material you are using, but the above temps should get you in the ballpark.

if the layers are easy to split apart, increase temps in small increments (2-3 degrees) until they are adhering well without being sloppy.

SD4 #1 & #2 - Lawsy carriages, E3D v6, Rumba controller board, mirror bed plate, X motor fan, upgraded PSU & Mica bed heater
SD4 #3 - in the works ~ Folgertech FT-5, rev 1
Printit Industries Beta Tester - Horizon H1

10

Re: Help with print quality and or Slic3r settings

for what it is worth, my retraction settings for the stock SD4 hotend...

Length: 1.5
Lift Z: 0
Speed: 30
Extra length on restart: 0
minimum travel after retraction: 2
retract on layer change: checked
wipe while retracting: unchecked

these seem to work well for me, your mileage may vary wink

SD4 #1 & #2 - Lawsy carriages, E3D v6, Rumba controller board, mirror bed plate, X motor fan, upgraded PSU & Mica bed heater
SD4 #3 - in the works ~ Folgertech FT-5, rev 1
Printit Industries Beta Tester - Horizon H1

11 (edited by crazyman2099 2015-10-23 04:14:52)

Re: Help with print quality and or Slic3r settings

I am still working on my calibration cubes and have change my extruder ratio based on instructions given. now right after I get done with the brim passes and starts on the skirt I get a big glob in the corner of the print and ever pass that corner just gets messier, any idea why?

Also, I am getting a vibration noise when it runs in the Y axis. The cube comes out perfect for x and y dimensions and I let it build up a good amount of layers and there is no skipping occur. Any idea regarding this vibration and noise?

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Re: Help with print quality and or Slic3r settings

crazyman2099 wrote:

I am still working on my calibration cubes

I made this on thingiverse:

http://www.thingiverse.com/madfalcon81/designs

Fat kids are harder to kidnap!

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Re: Help with print quality and or Slic3r settings

madfalcon81 wrote:
crazyman2099 wrote:

I am still working on my calibration cubes

I made this on thingiverse:

http://www.thingiverse.com/madfalcon81/designs

Sorry for stating so poorly, I am already printing cubes, just tweaking after printing each cube

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Re: Help with print quality and or Slic3r settings

crazyman2099 wrote:

I am still working on my calibration cubes and have change my extruder ratio based on instructions given. now right after I get done with the brim passes and starts on the skirt I get a big glob in the corner of the print and ever pass that corner just gets messier, any idea why?

Also, I am getting a vibration noise when it runs in the Y axis. The cube comes out perfect for x and y dimensions and I let it build up a good amount of layers and there is no skipping occur. Any idea regarding this vibration and noise?

Post a picture.
As for vibrations, does it vibrate on the y when it's not printing?

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

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Re: Help with print quality and or Slic3r settings

Here is an update for my prints, I have messed with ratio and now have less stringiness. I have removed my Z-lift and no longer have noticeable Z banding.

I still have grinding and vibration, but randomly. If I reset Y belts and pulleys I can get a few prints out fine then sound comes back. If I do Y pulleys again I can get rid of sound for a few prints. I have my Y belts very loose.

I would recommend to anyone to use a Direct Drive Y setup and get rid of that small belt that bends your Y axis shaft.

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Re: Help with print quality and or Slic3r settings

belts should be snug - not too loose, but not too tight. if they are too loose you may be getting misalignment of the carriages and that is where your "grinding" is coming from - or the belts could be jumping teeth, which can also lead to misalignment, and damaged belts.

snug up the belts, then loosen the set screws on the rear pulleys - work the carriages back and forth until everything moves smoothly and is properly aligned, then tighten the set screws.

with the carriages all the way back you should just be able to pinch the 2 sides of the belt together midway between carriage and idler pulley - there should be just a little resistance - and both sides need to be the same tension.

SD4 #1 & #2 - Lawsy carriages, E3D v6, Rumba controller board, mirror bed plate, X motor fan, upgraded PSU & Mica bed heater
SD4 #3 - in the works ~ Folgertech FT-5, rev 1
Printit Industries Beta Tester - Horizon H1

17

Re: Help with print quality and or Slic3r settings

I found out what grinding noise is, it is the y bearings in front, the plastic is rubbing against the pulley, some white grease has fixed this. With direct y axis motor y is slightly loose and works perfectly.