RH manual Control flow settings for SD2? (Page 1 of 2)

Those are simply the manual extrude distance and speed settings.  They have absolutely no impact on your G-code nor will they change anything mid print.

yes and other settings between. and I have done the test cube and mine comes out perfect on all sides for my .35mm nozzle at .42, yet still have the non-solid layers which show up bad on top layers which are set as solid for 5 bottom and 7-8 top layers. this looks bad on my N scale models/prints of vehicles on a few of the filament colors which seem to do worse at it. to the point I have stopped printing them. printer has been sitting idle for weeks its very disapointing.

Are you recalibrating for every different filament?  Measure the filament diameter at several different points and enter the average diameter; then with extrusion multiplier set to 1, print a single walled cube.  Dial in with the Ext Multiplier to adjust and get to a 0.42 wall thickness...

If you switch filaments a lot, you can write down the settings for each on the outside of the spool with a Sharpie for future reference.

EDIT:  BTW, 0.7 seems awfully low for a multiplier...

I don't know that defaults apply here but 50-100 mm per second is well within the acceptable range for speed.  Distance depends on what you are trying to accomplish.  For E steps calibration you woul set extrude distance to 100 and then see if it actually pulls 100 mm of filament.  For retraction you might use that for changing filament and set it around 40 or 50.  Of course most of us just release the tension arm and pull it out.
I have to ask, you've been around for a while.  How is it possible to calibrate your printer with out understanding and using those controls?
I even use them to adjust the E VREF.

Those are supposed be used to change those settings mid print. However due to the FIFO buffer on a streaming print there will be about a 6 to 10 second delay from the time you make the adjustment till the time ot actually starts showing in the print. So they are in sorts useless since the issie you may want to correct will happen for 6 seconds minimum.

The Flow and speed settings work just fine during the print. 

I used to crank up the flow occasionally when I wanted a thicker extrusion in a particular spot.  I used to do this usually for the first layer (I would set it to about 110-115) to get a nice thick, gap free layer.

The feed rate I would use it occasionally to either slow down the print in a certain area, or speed it up if quality was not a major concern.

They work , more or less, in real time, and as carl mentioned, there is a delay, it depends on the buffer, and how much data is in there already that needs to be processed before it gets to the new commands.

^ Exactly,  maybe I wasn't clear enough in my post.  Thank you IronMan for clarifying.

the old .7 setting was where Solidoodle set it, maybe due to extruder motor steps being odd from normal? it worked ok with Neutral til close to end of roll then started leaving gaps in walls

If you started see gaps towards the end of a roll that suggest a humidity problem. Those gaps are being caused by steam voids.

I hope we haven't confused you! Try not to get too in depth just yet: these are not settings, they are manual controls. The numbers you put in here only affect the manual extrusion when you press the arrow buttons. They will not affect anything during printing.

Try it out:
(0) Ensure the hot-end is off the bed (lower the bed a little)
(1) Heat the extruder up to printing temperature
(2) Set the manual extrusion rate to 50 mm/min (in the box in the red circled area)
(3) Set "extrude" to 10 mm or so (in the box in the red circled area)
(4) Click the arrow button next to the "extrude" box (in the red circled area)
(5) Watch 10 mm of filament run through your extruder at 50 mm/min

This is useful for loading and unloading filament, and when calibrating your extruder steps-per-mm.

You can use the "flow rate" slider (while printing), or the extrusions settings in slic3r (when slicing) to fine-tune extrusion for prints.

now I just need to figure how to calibrate Slic3r settings so it extrudes correctly for test cube as well as not leaving gaps between perimeter walls. so I can create a filament setting for each roll I use. after 6 tests I am still too thick on test cube using 1.77mm Dia at .7 multiplier getting .51mm walls with the med Green Shields made me. my Neutral SD roll test cube was .42mm but started leaving the gaps between walls towards end of roll and I didnt re-measure that roll to see if it changed but likely.

test number 7 prepped remeasured filament and now its average 1.75mm and trying multiplier of .66

maybe I need to find just what formula to use to find desired flow to get width I need. cause I cant get any math to work and come up with results I am getting with settings.

the OP settings worked for the Neutral filament roll for all but last couple wraps. seems I am missing something or doing it wrong. cant be this hard to find.

well when I done some jobs on 3dhubs it slic3r and showed same cubic cm as 3dhubs said and printed good. will have to recheck.

how do I calibrate that? never done any firmware stuff b4