1 Topic by Morganism

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Topic: X-axis adjustment

I have a Solidoodle 4.  My machine seems to be out of adjustment. I believe the x-axis belt may be loose. Particularly, when it is running from right to left along the x-axis. It is making a screeching, grinding noise, regardless of the movement of the y-axis.  It is similar to when my y-axis was out of alignment.

How do I adjust the x-axis belt? I have looked online in as many places as I can. I only seem to find the video for y-axis on the wiki or the circular adjustment video. There is a screw on the right side of the carriage that anchors the belt. There is a screw on the left side that goes into the carriage, but if I loosen or tighten it I do not see how it would adjust the belt.

I did see a thread with a sound file posted about an x-axis problem. That person was told to adjust his vref. I have been running this machine for about 4 months, and the vrefs have been fine. I have not opened the board or done anything that would cause the vref to change in over a month. Therefore, I do not believe that is the problem, but I could be wrong.

Any help would be appreciated.

Solidoodle 4-Mostly stock running off headless Raspberry Pi with Octoprint

2 Reply by EagleSeven (edited by EagleSeven 2015-07-22 16:02:16)

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Re: X-axis adjustment

Morganism wrote:

It is making a screeching, grinding noise,

That sounds more like a Bad or Clogged Bearing ??

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3 Reply by jagowilson (edited by jagowilson 2015-07-22 16:08:53)

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Re: X-axis adjustment

EagleSeven wrote:

That sounds more like a Bad or Clogged Bearing ??

No. A stock Solidoodle uses bushings and they typically don't bind on their own.

OP, first make sure it moves ok by hand. your belt is adjustable by a screw on the left hand side of the X carriage. it is an M3 bolt with hex head. hold the belt straight and turn this screw to the right and it will tighten the belt. do not over-tighten, because this can break the carriage.

On the right of the X carriage there is also a bolt holding the belt on. It's a Phillips M3. make sure this screw is tightened as far as it will go.

To check if the belt is tight enough, run the x axis from the far left to the far right using manual controls in RH. When it moves without "twanging," it should be tight enough. print a circle and look for any dents on the X axis side (3 o'clock and 9 o'clock). if you don't see any then it is tight enough.

4 Reply by EagleSeven (edited by EagleSeven 2015-07-22 16:39:41)

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Re: X-axis adjustment

jagowilson wrote:
EagleSeven wrote:

That sounds more like a Bad or Clogged Bearing ??

No. A stock Solidoodle uses bushings and they typically don't bind on their own.

.

I understand, but how can a loose belt cause a Screeching, grinding sound,
if it has good clean Bushings ??

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5 Reply by jagowilson (edited by jagowilson 2015-07-22 16:49:50)

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Re: X-axis adjustment

if the belt is too loose the pulley doesn't properly grip the teeth of the belt. the pulley spins, rubbing it's teeth against the belt, causing an awful grinding sound.

6 Reply by EagleSeven

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Re: X-axis adjustment

jagowilson wrote:

if the belt is too loose the pulley doesn't properly grip the teeth of the belt. the pulley spins, rubbing it's teeth against the belt, causing an awful grinding sound.

Oh, okay, it would have to be Very loose to jump-teeth. sad
Thanks

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7 Reply by Morganism (edited by Morganism 2015-07-22 18:00:08)

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Re: X-axis adjustment

I will try that when I get home. The belt definitely feels loose to me. How does turning that screw tighten the belt? Do I need to loosen and pull the belt through somewhere? Am I holding it straight as I tighten? (This doesn't seem to matter to me, if I am tightening the belt why would I need to hold it as it is going into the carriage) Am I reaching to try to grab the open end of the belt and pull on it?

p.s.-the carriage does move relatively easily by hand. Which is what made me think belt more than bushings.

Solidoodle 4-Mostly stock running off headless Raspberry Pi with Octoprint

8 Reply by jagowilson

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Re: X-axis adjustment

the belt is held into the carriage via a bolt. that bolt goes through a hole in the belt and into threading in the carriage. there is a washer between the belt and bolt. as the bolt is screwed deeper into the carriage, the belt has no choice but to lose slack to go where the bolt is pushing it. make sure the belt and bolt are flush with each other (washer should be firm against the belt with the bolt head firm against the washer).

holding the belt straight just makes it easier for me. you can let it get twisted a bit and it won't hurt anything, but it's ugly.

9 Reply by Morganism

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Re: X-axis adjustment

Thank you very much for answering my questions. Sorry, some of them felt foolish. It also looks like I need to stop being neglectful and print some back-up parts.

Solidoodle 4-Mostly stock running off headless Raspberry Pi with Octoprint

10 Reply by jagowilson

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Re: X-axis adjustment

if you break anything let us know. always happy to print parts

I would start with lawsy's carriage. the stock carriage will eventually fail. how long it takes depends on how much you play with it wink

11 Reply by heartless

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Re: X-axis adjustment

Lawsy's carriages are awesome.

You will need to get some LM8UU linear bearings to use them, but they are well worth it.

It is also recommended to replace the smooth rods with something of better quality (case hardened, chrome plated) to withstand the wear & tear of the linear bearings. I didn't replace my Y rods initially and the bearings have eaten grooves into the cheap SD rods.

links to where I got my stuff for the latest addition - another SD4 upgrade in the works...
Bearings: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ED1 … ge_o01_s00
Smooth rods (x2): http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002BB … ge_o01_s00

The rod can be cut to appropriate length with either a Dremel or an angle grinder with a cut off wheel mounted. grind/file a slight bevel in the ends and you are good to go.

SD4 #1 & #2 - Lawsy carriages, E3D v6, Rumba controller board, mirror bed plate, X motor fan, upgraded PSU & Mica bed heater
SD4 #3 - in the works ~ Folgertech FT-5, rev 1
Printit Industries Beta Tester - Horizon H1

12 Reply by Morganism

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Re: X-axis adjustment

Update:

I have printed off back-ups for both x and y carriages.  Turning that screw has greatly decreased the noise. Because of the position of the screw, I have been having a hard time getting it completely tight without slack. My screwdriver literally pushes the belts apart stopping them from getting any tighter. However, I am still having some of the same squeaking, just not as badly. I feel like it should be tight enough, based on how tight my y belts are. Am I just not going tight enough? Maybe I overdid it? Any other ideas?

Solidoodle 4-Mostly stock running off headless Raspberry Pi with Octoprint

13 Reply by EagleSeven (edited by EagleSeven 2015-07-28 17:42:26)

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Re: X-axis adjustment

You may want to Add belt-tension Springs :
They can be just slipped over belt to tighten .
(I got some 6mm size from eBay, if my belts ever get Stretched, I'm Ready smile)

http://soliforum.com/i/?8HAmVZ5.jpg

But I'm still wondering if it may be a problem with a Bushing or Pulley, not the belt ??

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14 Reply by heartless

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Re: X-axis adjustment

EagleSeven - those springs are completely unnecessary on a Solidoodle. There are screws for adjusting the tension on the belts.

SD4 #1 & #2 - Lawsy carriages, E3D v6, Rumba controller board, mirror bed plate, X motor fan, upgraded PSU & Mica bed heater
SD4 #3 - in the works ~ Folgertech FT-5, rev 1
Printit Industries Beta Tester - Horizon H1

15 Reply by EagleSeven (edited by EagleSeven 2015-07-29 13:52:31)

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Re: X-axis adjustment

heartless wrote:

EagleSeven - those springs are completely unnecessary on a Solidoodle. There are screws for adjusting the tension on the belts.

Those Springs will Help Any printer that has Loose Belts ! smile
( Try It, You will Like it ! ) LOL smile

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16 Reply by heartless

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Re: X-axis adjustment

they are not needed when a simple turn of a screw will take up any slack in a belt. roll

and for the record, I did try them, on my Folgertech 2020 Prusa i3 - did NOT like them. designed an adjustment screw based tensioner for the X axis and found another on thingiverse for the Y axis to get rid of them. smile

SD4 #1 & #2 - Lawsy carriages, E3D v6, Rumba controller board, mirror bed plate, X motor fan, upgraded PSU & Mica bed heater
SD4 #3 - in the works ~ Folgertech FT-5, rev 1
Printit Industries Beta Tester - Horizon H1

17 Reply by EagleSeven (edited by EagleSeven 2015-07-29 19:22:12)

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Re: X-axis adjustment

heartless wrote:

they are not needed when a simple turn of a screw will take up any slack in a belt. roll

and for the record, I did try them, on my Folgertech 2020 Prusa i3 - did NOT like them. designed an adjustment screw based tensioner for the X axis and found another on thingiverse for the Y axis to get rid of them. smile

Okay, I understand, but I'm wondering why Morganism was having so much trouble with those little screws, if they are So Great ?? smile
It seems that a simple 'spring' could Solve that type problem ?

The CTC, and other makes, come from factory with those springs Already installed and they work Great !

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18 Reply by heartless

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Re: X-axis adjustment

If the springs work for you, and you are happy with them, great.

The issue with the screws on the X axis is that they are not easily seen, so some don't even realize they exist.

SD4 #1 & #2 - Lawsy carriages, E3D v6, Rumba controller board, mirror bed plate, X motor fan, upgraded PSU & Mica bed heater
SD4 #3 - in the works ~ Folgertech FT-5, rev 1
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19 Reply by jagowilson

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Re: X-axis adjustment

Morganism wrote:

Update:

I have printed off back-ups for both x and y carriages.  Turning that screw has greatly decreased the noise. Because of the position of the screw, I have been having a hard time getting it completely tight without slack. My screwdriver literally pushes the belts apart stopping them from getting any tighter. However, I am still having some of the same squeaking, just not as badly. I feel like it should be tight enough, based on how tight my y belts are. Am I just not going tight enough? Maybe I overdid it? Any other ideas?

can you shoot a short video? squeaking could be from the bushings on the x rods (maybe they need lubrication), or the pulley that goes around the M5 screw on the right may need some lube. there shouldn't be any "twang" in the belt, but it shouldn't be so tight it's stretching either.

20 Reply by Morganism

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Re: X-axis adjustment

Finally got a video. I hope this works.

https://youtu.be/9tevYebc58M

Solidoodle 4-Mostly stock running off headless Raspberry Pi with Octoprint

21 Reply by Morganism

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Re: X-axis adjustment

Bump for those who like the sound of fingernails on a chalk board.

Solidoodle 4-Mostly stock running off headless Raspberry Pi with Octoprint

22 Reply by jagowilson

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Re: X-axis adjustment

lube up the rails and the pulley on the right.

23 Reply by Morganism

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Re: X-axis adjustment

I hate bringing up a dead subject.

I was finally able to get in enough to get my X-axis belt tight enough to work properly--for a while. Fairly shortly after that the noise came back and the belt was loose again. I assumed it needed to be tightened again, and possibly the tension screw was stripped.

After tightening as much as I could, the belt was still loose. I printed off a tensioner instead of buying a spring. Guess what happened? I broke the belt. Sometimes you just have a bad day.

I am hoping replacing the belt will not be very difficult. My biggest concern is that I can find very little information on replacing it other than do the opposite of what you did to take it off.  Specifically, how do I reassemble the tension adjusting side of the belt?

Any links or resources would be appreciated.

Solidoodle 4-Mostly stock running off headless Raspberry Pi with Octoprint

24 Reply by heartless (edited by heartless 2015-11-02 14:43:30)

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Re: X-axis adjustment

are you still on the stock carriages or did you upgrade to the Lawsy carriages?

it is basically the reverse of disassembly - 3mm cap head screw with 3mm washer goes through a hole in the belt (tooth side of belt facing the washer) and screws into the carriage. thread belt around the pulleys making sure everything is straight, and then the same on the other end - cap head screw & washer through hole in the belt and screwed into the carriage. there are more than likely captive nuts for the screws to thread into (definitely is if using the lawsy carriages) I can verify this shortly on the stock carriages...

yes, stock carriages use a captive nut on the tensioning side and a threaded insert on the stationary side - pics coming...

SD4 #1 & #2 - Lawsy carriages, E3D v6, Rumba controller board, mirror bed plate, X motor fan, upgraded PSU & Mica bed heater
SD4 #3 - in the works ~ Folgertech FT-5, rev 1
Printit Industries Beta Tester - Horizon H1

25 Reply by heartless

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Re: X-axis adjustment

http://soliforum.com/i/?wMitR1w.jpg

this pic is of the stock carriage from my 2nd SD4 - it is the same basic layout for the ones that use the bushings and teflon blocks - verified by checking the carriages from my 1st SD4...

I have had a couple of belts split out at the screw hole now - it is not hard to change them if you have new belt on hand.... or you could take a leap of faith and try the fishing line mod. smile I have not yet successfully done this one, but I do have line on hand for when I have time to mess with it..

if using new belt, cut it to the correct length using the old one to measure. I use a silver sharpie to mark where I want the screw hole to be on the smooth side of the new belt to ensure it is centered. Using some scrap wood, i made a little jig to drill the hole in the belt - using a 3mm drill bit, i drilled a hole in a thinner piece of wood (1/4 in thick) to make lining things up easier. I place the belt down on a thicker scrap piece, line up my jig hole with the mark I made on the belt, hold firmly (or clamp), and drill the hole in the new belt.

the reason jago said to hold the belt is that they like to twist when turning the screw to tighten the tension.

SD4 #1 & #2 - Lawsy carriages, E3D v6, Rumba controller board, mirror bed plate, X motor fan, upgraded PSU & Mica bed heater
SD4 #3 - in the works ~ Folgertech FT-5, rev 1
Printit Industries Beta Tester - Horizon H1