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SoliForum - 3D Printing Community → Help/Repair/Maintenance → X axis is shifting and correcting again.
I got a problem with my X axis. It's shifting and correcting itself again.
I have no idea what can cause this.
It starts off fine, but after a while it'll slowly shift about a 1mm, and then correct itself again a bit faster.
Hm slipping the distance of one belt tooth ? have you lubricated the rods? is the fan on the board working. Is the x motor overheating.
IMHO either the belt is slipping or heat issues casing a missed step.
so check belt tension lube the guide rods make sure there is ar flow on the driver board and try backing off the vref on the x motor. last option is add a heat sink and or fan to the x motor.
tin
I don't think it's slipping, as the shift as gradual, and it recovers and continues.
But I have no idea how hot my motors are getting.
The rods are lubed, and last I checked the board fan was running, but I'll check again.
This is supposed to go straight up:
Loose set screw on the drive pulley? check that !
The grub screw seems tight.
That's an axis shift. I don't see that it recovered anywhere in that photo. It shifted then kept printing and didn't shift again. If it had recovered it would have come back to the exact position and be straight up and down with only a layer or 2 indented on one side and sticking out the other. Try a cooling fan on your control board and adjust your VREF's. Past that calibrate to ensure you aren't over extruding.
Everything wardjr said, and you might want a cooling fan on the X motor as well.
I got a reading of ~60-65C(149F) with a infrared thermometer.
Is that too high?
Edit: My Y axis motor is about 45-50C.
I take it, I have to change the vref in the firmware or what?
How hot is your print bed? Maybe the material near the bed got soft and caused the column to tilt. I have seen that with some of my ABS (one spool in particular). At 100C, it is still soft and shrinks during the print creating overhang. I can see a similar thing causing such a tall model to tilt. Put a square against it and see if it square to the bed to check.
How hot is your print bed? Maybe the material near the bed got soft and caused the column to tilt. I have seen that with some of my ABS (one spool in particular). At 100C, it is still soft and shrinks during the print creating overhang. I can see a similar thing causing such a tall model to tilt. Put a square against it and see if it square to the bed to check.
I'll look into that, thanks.
I'm also looking into this page: http://support.solidoodle.com/hc/en-us/ … Solidoodle
I'm getting this:
X: 0.8V
Y: 1V
Z: 1.2V
According to the info in the link above, they should be set at about 1v for X, Y and Z.
But my X motor is the one getting hot... I don't get it.
Could it overheat because of lack of power, thereby having a harder time moving the X carriage?
even with the voltage set dead on the X motor tends to get quite warm which can cause problems.
adding a fan on the motor helps with that a great deal.
print one of these: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:128526 and install a 40mm fan on it. It just slides onto the motor - friction fit, no screws needed to hold in place.
what printer do you have anyway? an SD4?
if so, you can remove the fan on the back of the case and use it on the X axis motor - takes a little fishing around to get the wires out, but not that hard to do and the wire is plenty long enough for this mod. I have done this with both of my SD4s, with no ill effects.
I got the fan mounted, and the temp is down to 45-50C.
I tried printing another tall print, and its happened again.
Edit: Could the 0.8v on the X motor be the cause of the problem?
It looks to me that the linear rods the bed moves up and down on are bent or out of alignment from each other.. Make a line on the front of the bed using a sharpie and a piece of tape. Then take a string and hang it from the front of the printer with a weight on it so it hangs straight in front of the line you just made. Now using the software move the Z its full limits up and down and watch the line in relation to the string. I bet you will see that line shift at about the same point it does on your model.
I got the fan mounted, and the temp is down to 45-50C.
I tried printing another tall print, and its happened again.
Edit: Could the 0.8v on the X motor be the cause of the problem?
that could be a part of the problem, but I am kind of inclined to agree with carl on this one after seeing that full height print... that is not the same "shift" you had before, however. that is a gradual drifting to one side, then back again.
voltages for a solidoodle (running on a printerboard) are supposed to be:
X - 1v
Y - 1v
Z - 1v
E - 0.25v
(or as close as you can get them to those values)
If the right X pulley is no longer seated, it can climb the threads of the retaining screw. This would give an inconsistent shift due to the change in belt tension. This may not be your case, but it is a possibility
Well now I got a new problem.
The small Y axis belt looks like it's about to snap.
But I can't seem to find the right replacement for it.
Edit: I was also considering upgrading the belts and pulleys(To GT2), but it seems I need 6mm axis for the Y axis, but I'm only able to find 5/8mm.
Edit2: Thanks to this thread I found some 6mm pulleys: http://www.soliforum.com/topic/11922/br … e3d-lite6/
I've still got this this issue.
I've got my printer up and running again, with GT2 belts and pulleys, a M5 leadscrew(With anti banding), and the Y axis is now directly driven by the motor.
But I can't find any smooth rod(Z) replacements here in europe.
I've measured my rods and they seem to be 3/8", and while I can easily get 10mm rods, 3/8" is about 9.525mm, so I don't think they'll work.
Lots of info here of switching it over to an m5 or m8 rod.
Lots of info here of switching it over to an m5 or m8 rod.
I already got the leadscrew switched to a M5.
It's the smooth rods that guide the Z axis, that I want to replace, and I can't seem to find what I'm looking for.
I'm not sure if I'm using the right search therms, but all I get is related to leadscrew replacement or Z banding.
The first half is looking very good, but the other half still f***** up.
Just look for 8mm smooth rods. Make sure they are hardened. you will most likely need to cut or have them cut to length once you buy them.
Those rods aren't 8mm I think you might consider pulling the rods out to see if they are bent. The bushings are usually in need of some lubricant. So you can either work with those rods or replace both the rods and bushings to metric. Another solution may be one of many bed stabilizers on Thingiverse. The most important thing here is smooth motion through the entire range.
I agree with wardjr.
For the record, the unthreaded Z rods are 3/8". The bushings do not like running dry/ so add some sewing machine oil or white lithium grease then commend Z up and down a few times to work it all in.
Converting to metric bushings and rods would be fun and an interesting read.
Well I had the rods out, and they had a slight bend to them, maybe 0.1-0.3mm or so.
I've tried applying silicone oil, silicone grease and super lube(Teflon based), and that did nothing.
I'm not sure how I would go about replacing the bushings. Print or buy them?
Printing them would rely on my printer, to be more accurate then the current bend on the rods.
For the moment, I think I'll try making some bed stabilizers.
There are a lot of stabilizer variations out there, so definitely look them over carefully.
I use this one on both of my SD4s: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:195266/#instructions - easy to print, easy to assemble - and I already had the bearings on hand (very common Traxxas RC car bearings) I did use some 5/32" brass tubing I had in place of the 4 mm carbon fiber rod specified - works fine.
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