Broken Pulley -> Time to upgrade (GT2 Pulleys/Belts, E3D lite6) (Page 1 of 2)

0.25mm nozzles do clog more easily, that's not much bigger than dust for instance.

I'm pretty sure I'm the cheapest supplier to Canada. If you find cheaper, I'll match it.

+1,000

If you change your mind I have a mount and coupler collecting dust

+1 ^

If you are going to go with a .25 nozzle then it is a must that you have a filament cleaner inline to clean off the dust. It also helps to make sure you store your filament in a sealed bin with a golden rod or desiccant. Just as a warning, a .25 nozzle will make you upgrade other parts. You will notice other effects on your prints at the lower extrusion rates that you wouldn't have otherwise.

Okay, since I only print with ABS I'm going to try the 0.3mm nozzle instead. I should also figure out a better setup for the filament. Thanks for your advice.

Well it comes with the 0.4mm nozzle stock, and the stuff I'm printing needs all the detail it can get at 0.1mm layer heights.

I think its best if I just show you a picture of what I'm trying to print.

If you look at the spikes, and also the bottom of the head you'll see what I mean by more detail. And sometimes the nozzle is too big to print the layer of the part directly above a support, if it skips too many layers it will just fail to adhere and fall over. Things like the owl have very big inner profiles so using a 0.3mm nozzle wouldn't matter I agree.

Putting me on the spot here.

Yea, I need a new camera haha.

Mass reduction. A metal chain has more inertia thsn a composite belt does. You would need larger and higher torque motors to have the same level of control. Plus you would have added vibration ftom the chain gear meshing.

+1 as they wear, they get sloppier. They need to be clean and well lubricated (the way they're used on bicycles in the open is outright abuse).

If you compare this to a timing chain on a car, which is oversized for the power required to minimise wear, has a (usually) adjustable or replacable tensioner/guide, and runs in a sealed case constantly sprayed with engine oil - these last nearly as long as the engine will (200,000km +) without replacement!

I don't think the mass is actually that big a deal, the motors have most of the inertia already, but the slight speed variation (due to the finite segments of chain changing angle as they go in and out of the sprocket) can cause vibration.

I guess ideally you want something with:
* zero slip
* zero stretch
* zero slop
* zero mass
Which really means anything will be a compromise in some form. Spectra fishing line (talk to wardjr!) apparently comes pretty close on all four!

+1 to Grob and wardjr

If you have patience, knot skills (minimal knowledge is fine), and the desire to eliminate belt slop, Spectra is a great alternative! Here is a knot tutorial to help
http://www.rapala.com/content/how-to-li … knots.html

Credit to wardjr for my info

Before I respond let me update on my situation. I received all the GT2 pulleys/and belts from the robotdigg website in 5 days, costed me 40 USD. Changing everything over was pretty painless, the only "troublesome" thing was taking the linear bearings out of the left x carriage to put the bigger pulley on the motor. The backlash in the y axis wasn't as bad as the stock mxl belts, but definitely still there (fixed with software). Oh and you ppl are brave for using fishing line, I'm definitely not there yet.

I'll look into extruder gear reduction. I have been using kisslicer exclusively since I started 3D printing, currently using beta version 2.21. I'd like to think I know it pretty well but I'm always open to advice on tweaking settings. I've used PLA once and didn't like it, maybe I'll give it another shot. Send me a pm and we can compare kisslicer print settings .