Nylon 645 properties and characteristics
645 is currently being used by CNC shops around the world to support quick turn prototypes for Pre-Pilot and Pilot runs as well as some limited production runs.  As global supply compresses and just-in-time becomes just-a-little-late, more and more CNC shops are jumping in to fill quick turn needs.

645 is machinable with similar settings and cutting speeds as used in Cast Nylon blocks.

Thermal properties are slightly higher than Nylon 6,6 and Nylon 6,12. 

Cutting tools need to be sharp.

Three flute flat end mills are preferred.

Holes to be drilled should be printed the next metric or imperial size down and no less than two perimeters when printing.  A calculation should be

made such that drilled holes do not encroach on fills and be contained within perimeters only.

645 does not leave any nylon dust residue during tap operations.  However, 645 does cut and even with it's slippery properties, some "cuttings" can

be retained in the tap'd hole, therefore, these should be cleaned using compressed air.

For tap'd holes that are used for threaded rod, where the rod will be constantly rotated, do NOT use any lubricants as they are not needed and over

time will be soaked up into the fill area.

Locking chemicals for blind nuts do NOT work on 645, and as some contain acids, they will weaken bonding.

Tap quality and material thickness follow the same rule as for aluminum.

Threaded Brass Inserts work well when installed with a soldering iron set to 250C

Do NOT use water based solvents as 645 will take on some of the solvent and become discolored. - Permanently!

Nothing bonds to 645.  To adhere other parts to 645, they must also be made of 645 and bonded with a heat gun or soldering iron.

Pliability of 645 follows the same size and density rules that apply to injection molded nylon for 100% fill parts.

    For more pliability, you can reduce fill to something less than 100%

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With 3mm in general, I'm considering adding another fan or two. Maybe with a shroud directing the flow to a long nozzle to get flow primarily on the filament. I'm waiting to see how the winder affects things.

I also have a 15V power supply on the way as maintaining 218C required the heater on constantly. I'm actually out of nylon pellets now, but will be ordering some once I get the winder up and running. I need to get some ABS and HIPS run anyway.

I forgot to mention, I am using a filawinder, I have a hard time seeing how you could get consistent results without one, as the nylon seems so easily stretched by its own weight you couldn't get a good diameter even with a very oversize hole. With the wave pattern, I'm getting about +-.1mm. If I could get +-.05mm, I would be very, very happy. If all else fails I am going to try water cooling.

It seems to extrude reasonably well, but I don't think I dried it enough as I got bubbles in the filament. The indicator card was all blue, but that seems to be the case anyway. I'm going to try drying it at 200F for a day so to see if I can really dry it out and try again. I was just wondering if anyone had tried it and had more information about Nylon in general. I got a few short lengths of bubble free filament, not enough to do much with, but the diameter tolerance was almost as good as ABS for them. I needed to run about 205C to extrude it.

I also need to thoroughly clean the barrel, I thought extruding for a while would do it, but I found some ABS pellets in there.

EDIT: oops, thought this was a sticky

On my big list of notes, PA is next to PC, so I may have mis-pasted, but I have read a lot of info that you can't just use any Nylon (but apparently weed whacker line works).  The whole point of the specific materials threads is to be able to extrude our own, but there's little information on nylon outside of Taulman's filament. 

I'll try to source some PA12 to test.

It is my understanding that Taulman's are the only products that you can reliably use a non all metal hot end with.  Raw nylon pellets are either too viscous, or have a filler that makes them need high temps or are too difficult to extrude into useable filament.

Can you post some grades of pellets that you've gotten into filament and successfully printed without the E3D or extruder modification?

Basics:

• To print with it, you need a metal hot end

This is not true.

• Nylon warps

• To print with it, you need a metal hot end

Posts from around the forum about Nylon:

http://www.soliforum.com/topic/466/nylon/

• Large thread of information about Nylon filament.

http://www.soliforum.com/topic/6041/gla … ass-beads/

• Summary - The Filastruder melt filter is 250 microns, and the glass-filled Nylon 6 found on eBay was 25 micron, so it should work.  However, while the glass beads may not wear your Filastruder, it may prematurely wear your printer nozzles.

http://www.soliforum.com/topic/6881/nylon-flexibility/

• Summary - Young's Modulus and Flexural Modulus are indicators of flexibility of Nylon grades.

http://www.soliforum.com/topic/6787/nyl … questions/

• Taulman's Nylon, off-gassing concerns.

If you've tried different Nylon recipes, please post your findings here.  Good information to post:

• Brand/Grade and if it has any filler.

• Filament extruder temperature and setup.

• Printer settings and general printing experience using your Nylon.