76

Re: Da Vinci borosilicate glass with heater

demick wrote:
rockosmodlife wrote:

Regular glass has a linear thermal expansion coeff. of about 9x10^-6 m/m K
http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/linea … -d_95.html

Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene has a linear thermal expansion coeff. of about 73.8x10^-6 m/m K
http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/linea … -d_95.html

Not to mention that the glass is well below the hot-end temperature when printing ABS.

Doh! Good catch. I think the table I looked glass up on was expressed in 10^-7 and I didn't pay close enough attention. I guess I can toss that theory out the (plain) glass window!

lol smile

Repinci 1.0 + Repetier host

77

Re: Da Vinci borosilicate glass with heater

demick wrote:

Well, it happened again. I have the borosilicate glass and heater from James. I was very happy with it. The parts always stuck nicely and popped off much easier than the original glass. But I ran a medium size part overnight. The next morning the part was done. The part was already popped loose just from the cooling process, but there were 2 thin pieces of glass (about 1 square inch each) that had also 'popped loose' too.  Of note: I have been printing directly onto the glass (no tape or anything). I guess I'll need to use tape or something in the future. I really wish there was a solution for separate glass and heater, as I would not mind changing the glass when it chips, but at $60 a pop for glass/heater it is expensive. This one lasted about 35 hours of printing. About half as long as the original. Anyone else have the same problem?  Is it recommended not to print directly to the glass?  Would like a long term solution.

I baught some Borosilicate glass from EBay and it also chipped. I wonder if me cleaning the bed, still warm, with isopropyl alcohol and then starting a new print immediately somehow caused the glass to chip. Could the alcohol be etching the hot/warm glass and creating weak spots that are lifted off with the plastic? Any chemists or glass cutter out there that would know this?

I think I'm leaving the glass bed and going to try a 3mm thick sheet of aluminum. Any thoughts on aluminum heated beds?

78

Re: Da Vinci borosilicate glass with heater

Fantome wrote:
demick wrote:

Well, it happened again. I have the borosilicate glass and heater from James. I was very happy with it. The parts always stuck nicely and popped off much easier than the original glass. But I ran a medium size part overnight. The next morning the part was done. The part was already popped loose just from the cooling process, but there were 2 thin pieces of glass (about 1 square inch each) that had also 'popped loose' too.  Of note: I have been printing directly onto the glass (no tape or anything). I guess I'll need to use tape or something in the future. I really wish there was a solution for separate glass and heater, as I would not mind changing the glass when it chips, but at $60 a pop for glass/heater it is expensive. This one lasted about 35 hours of printing. About half as long as the original. Anyone else have the same problem?  Is it recommended not to print directly to the glass?  Would like a long term solution.

I baught some Borosilicate glass from EBay and it also chipped. I wonder if me cleaning the bed, still warm, with isopropyl alcohol and then starting a new print immediately somehow caused the glass to chip. Could the alcohol be etching the hot/warm glass and creating weak spots that are lifted off with the plastic? Any chemists or glass cutter out there that would know this?

I think I'm leaving the glass bed and going to try a 3mm thick sheet of aluminum. Any thoughts on aluminum heated beds?


If the bed chipped for no real reason other than your guesses, I would get my money back as you where not sold boroglass. Boroglass is the same thing as Pyrex. It is used for cooking. Gets much hotter then 90c. Using alcohol whole still hot will not make it break or chip.

Printing since 2009 and still love it!
Anycubic 4MAX best $225 ever invested.
Voxelabs Proxima SLA. 6 inch 2k Mono LCD.
Anycubic Predator, massive Delta machine. 450 x 370 print envelope.

79

Re: Da Vinci borosilicate glass with heater

Hmm... You might be correct but demick also had his borosilicate glass chip.

80

Re: Da Vinci borosilicate glass with heater

I've had my davinci for not even 3 weeks. Today the power flickered in a storm and it was enuff to cause the print failure.

I came home from work to find the print bed shattered.

I have no idea how.

in the attempt to remove the failed print the bed came with it in a large thin layer of glass.

I am interested in getting one of yours with heater applied shipped to 29303

81

Re: Da Vinci borosilicate glass with heater

viperxavier wrote:

I've had my davinci for not even 3 weeks. Today the power flickered in a storm and it was enuff to cause the print failure.

I came home from work to find the print bed shattered.

I have no idea how.

in the attempt to remove the failed print the bed came with it in a large thin layer of glass.

I am interested in getting one of yours with heater applied shipped to 29303

He has them listed on Ebay if you just wanted to get one there and know right of what shipping would run.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/XYZPrinting-DaV … 3aa67faa2c

Printing since 2009 and still love it!
Anycubic 4MAX best $225 ever invested.
Voxelabs Proxima SLA. 6 inch 2k Mono LCD.
Anycubic Predator, massive Delta machine. 450 x 370 print envelope.

82

Re: Da Vinci borosilicate glass with heater

Anyone who has reported that their bed chipped. I have replaced it at no charge.
All I ask is a photo to verify.

So far I've replaced three chipped beds and two broken during shipping. Don't be shy.. contact me at [email protected] and I'll take care of you.

The common problem I've seen is that the print times were long and the prints were left on either overnight or for some hours after the print was finished.

I've also put up a small site with instructions on changing the bed. www.davincizone.com
Once I get the shopping cart set up I'll be offering the beds for sale there as well.. cheaper than ebay since I don't have to pay their fees.

Thanks

James

83

Re: Da Vinci borosilicate glass with heater

I use 1/4" stove glass (a ceramic glass made for windows in wood burning stoves) on my SD3 and have never had any chipping/cracking problems.

SD3 w/ RUMBA (8825s), merlin hot end (in pieces). Ender3 w/ silent board for PLA printing. Ender5 w/ silent board, e3d v6, new z lead screw, and glass bed. DiY Kossel w/ smoothieboard (in pieces). Vellman Vertex (in pieces)
Shapeoko2 router in process of being converted to laser engraver (in pieces)
Multicam 5000 series CNC Router w/ 11HP spindle, 5x10' table, and auto tool changer (in pieces)

84

Re: Da Vinci borosilicate glass with heater

carl_m1968 wrote:

Im wondering how this glass is getting broken. I have had my 1.0 for months now with no chips or cracks. I have hundreds of hours on it, and several 20+ hour prints on it. I have yet to see any chips or breaks. Are you guys letting it fully cool to room temp through the entire model before temoving? I have never had to use force on any print. Once cooled they literally slide off the platform.

hmm... no, they don't. Your prints must have a very small contact surface with the glass.

Or, you are using some other product (not glue stick) to have the first layer stick and the finished, cooled off print "slide off" the platform.

When printing substantial prints on the glass using the glue stick, the cooled off prints are attached to the glass beyond the glass ability to keep its structural integrity.

In other words, for any print larger than 10 or 15 square inches contact with the bed, the plastic "mass" will bond with the glass and the glass will be way too fragile to survive any attempt at removing the object.

Obviously there is much to learn on this technology... Maybe rafters are the only way to print large contact prints?

thank you

85

Re: Da Vinci borosilicate glass with heater

gsucci wrote:
carl_m1968 wrote:

Im wondering how this glass is getting broken. I have had my 1.0 for months now with no chips or cracks. I have hundreds of hours on it, and several 20+ hour prints on it. I have yet to see any chips or breaks. Are you guys letting it fully cool to room temp through the entire model before temoving? I have never had to use force on any print. Once cooled they literally slide off the platform.

hmm... no, they don't. Your prints must have a very small contact surface with the glass.

Or, you are using some other product (not glue stick) to have the first layer stick and the finished, cooled off print "slide off" the platform.

When printing substantial prints on the glass using the glue stick, the cooled off prints are attached to the glass beyond the glass ability to keep its structural integrity.

In other words, for any print larger than 10 or 15 square inches contact with the bed, the plastic "mass" will bond with the glass and the glass will be way too fragile to survive any attempt at removing the object.

Obviously there is much to learn on this technology... Maybe rafters are the only way to print large contact prints?

thank you


You might want to to look at might signature. I have been doing this for a very long time and I was one of the first US buyers of the 1.0 as well. I have done prints that took 24 hours on this machine and took up over half the bed in contact area. The difference I make is that I use Elmers Purple Glue sticks, Not the UHU garbage they provide.

The only reason this glass is breaking and or chipping is that it is too thin and it is poor quality. That is all there is to it. You get what you pay for simple as that. Yes the Da Vinci is a good deal for the price but it will need some mods to become a real meaningful 3D printer and that will put you back another $200.

You will discover it's short comings as time goes on.

Printing since 2009 and still love it!
Anycubic 4MAX best $225 ever invested.
Voxelabs Proxima SLA. 6 inch 2k Mono LCD.
Anycubic Predator, massive Delta machine. 450 x 370 print envelope.

86 (edited by RockLegend1203 2015-07-21 11:03:00)

Re: Da Vinci borosilicate glass with heater

jdholbrook33 wrote:

I've also put up a small site with instructions on changing the bed. www.davincizone.com
Once I get the shopping cart set up I'll be offering the beds for sale there as well.. cheaper than ebay since I don't have to pay their fees.

Hey James

I was hoping to purchase a 1.0 bed replacement from your site but the cart only has the US as a shipping option.

Do you ship internationally, in particular to Australia? If yes, how much is shipping?

Thanks
Ben

EDIT: Actually read through the thread properly this time and realised you're also selling them on ebay. Just ordered one! (killer exchange rate right now sad )

87

Re: Da Vinci borosilicate glass with heater

Hi there. I just found this site while looking for alternatives to the stock glass for my Davinci 1.0. My wife has been printing on it for a little over a year now and it has developed a decent valley in the glass.

I just ordered one of your replacements and will post pictures when I get it and have it installed. Thank you for providing this service!

88 (edited by chrismetallica1 2015-10-12 22:13:47)

Re: Da Vinci borosilicate glass with heater

I'm running the same bed on my 1.0A $55 on ebay. Seem much better quality. Same manufacturer as the original bed but boro glass and a 140 watt heater instead of the 130 that's on the stock. Been running it for 2 weeks got about 150 hours on it no issues and the prints come off easy with a little damp paper towel for 5 misn after print finishes. However I did crack one on my spare 1.0A totally my fault as the bed screw had come loose with the printer vibration. I hadn't noticed and when it moved to the back of the bed it slammed the print head into the glass. Just ordered 3 spare units just in case. Also going to be working on a new bed when my X-carve arrives. Thinking of measuring the depth on the original. Taking into account the heat protection pad material, the boro bed and spoke to Alex over at Proto Pasta. Going to try a bed that takes the flexi build plate. Not bothered about the XYZ probes for calibration as they are far too poor to mess with