Da Vinci borosilicate glass with heater (Page 2 of 4)

James any chance of you posting a pic of your installed upgrade? Is your bed the one I posted pics of or once like Carl has? I've had no flaking at all from my bed.

I PM'd you about buying new glass with installed heater if you still have one.

I contacted XYZ through my distributor and straight away XYZ sent me out a new bed, so cant complain there.
It arrived as a separate piece of glass and the stickyback heating element with wires attached so leaves me now with an option of replacing glass with Borosilicate/pyrex
The glass looks a little different to my old one so I was going to check with them the grade first.
Not having much luck sourcing Boro glass here the correct size, best I can get is 200x213 or 300x300.
Might check my local glass company see if they have anything or if they can cut the 300x300 to size for me.

James,
I received the new glass/heater yesterday and just installed it (thank you for the quick turn around). After tightening down the brackets that hold the glass in place, I noticed the glass was still very loose and I could move it easily. It seems to be about 2mm too small on all directions. I tried taking the bracket off and bending the taps to help force the glass down and stable, but this didn't work. I then took the glass out and under the mat I placed some 2mm tall "test" circles I had laying around and put them under the white pad to help "push" up the glass. This worked in the sense that the glass doesn't move anymore. I'm heating up the printer right now to do a calibration. I'll let you know how it turns out.

As per the glass not being the same size, did I maybe get a bad batch?

Edit:
This is on a DaVinci 1.0A

My apologies, I've not been on the forum in a while.

I have 8 heater/glass left.
I'll be happy to ship international. Send me your address and I'll give you a quote.

About the glass size. The manufacturer can only promise me certain tolerance. +/- 1mm so I had to make the glass a tad smaller to make sure it fit if it was max tolerance. I felt it was better to be a few mm smaller than too big.
As far as the thickness, I had two choices and picked the thickness closest to the stock glass.
I'm looking at some silicone pads for those that need them. You used 2mm thick shims? How high do you think they need to be? Both of my printers are tight. i mean you can move them if you push hard but they are not loose.
You could have a glass that's on the low side of the tolerance. Thickness should be 2.75mm

Thanks

James

Hello All

I picked up James' new heated bed today and installed it a little while ago. It was an easy install and it works great! Nice and hot.

I took a number of pictures to highlight a few things along the way.

You'll need a small hex tool (number 9?) and a Philips screwdriver. If you plan on removing the side panel, a flat tip screwdriver is handy to gently pry open the plastic retaining tabs.

Here is the photoset:

Removing the pad leads:

The blue leads: (don't forget to reattach!)

The insulation pad under the heater. Note the thermistor pad at the back connected to white wires.

My tinfoil shim. The new glass could not be firmly fixed in without a little extra thickness.

The new heat bed leads attached to the motherboard. Note the magnet core.

All done!

One critical thing to note. The new borosilicate glass plate is a little thinner than the glass that was installed at the factory. I had to insert a tinfoil shim under the insulation pad to compensate. The shim was aprox. two feet of a standard roll folded back on itself and the four edges folded in on themselves two times. It doesn't have to be thick, just enough to compensate for the minor difference in plate thicknesses. I chose tinfoil because it can easily withstand repeated heating and cooling cycles.

Make sure you do not cover the thermistor (small brown plastic square at the rear of the platform) when you reinstall the insulation pad. The insulation pad is designed to slip under the thermistor at that spot.

Also make sure you don't forget to reinstall the two blue leads at the rear of the brackets, they are required to make the electrical connection between the extruder sensor tip and the platform during calibration. They attach directly to the screw and rest on top of each metal bracket in the rear corners.

I found that taking the right side panel off made getting at the wires a whole lot easier. It comes off easily by carefully unclipping it at the top and tilting it out towards you to free it from the retainers at the bottom.

Enjoy!

Thank you!

Mine is concave with the lowest point in the middle. The doubled edges added the support around the perimeter so I guess it negates the concave effect in the middle. Another advantage of using the tinfoil is that it's malleable enough to conform to the space it's filling. It worked the first time so I was lucky I guess

Do you find that the Magnet core helps? I know that its used to reduce noise, but the only thing those cables do it for the thermistor and the auto calibration sensor. I would figure that the core wouldn't do much for these. That being said, it also doesn't hurt either.

I've changed the listing from my personal account over to a dedicated account.
Easier to keep track of with dedicated email and eBay account.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/251849084744?ss … 1555.l2649

New glass arrived and all the glass / heaters will be using the new glass. It's a tad bigger (209.5mm ish) so should be a little more snug.
I'm also including two tie wraps to help with the install.

Test glass for the Duo should be here any day.

James

P.S. I want to apologize to all who sent me a PM. I have to be doing something wrong. At times I get an email alerting me to a PM received and at times I don't get anything.
I've replied to them all just now.
I'll post my email address. 
jdholbrook33(at)yahoo.com
Again, My apologies.

I know people are worried about the glass being a tad small.
If you look at the printing process there is no force being applied to the glass, nothing to make it move in the frame.
I have been experimenting with mine. One of my printers the glass is not moving, the other moves. In the printer that the glass moves my 25mm square blocks come out almost perfect (25.02 x 24.97 for example).

That being said, I did notice that the glass is a fraction lower than the clamps and this will cause a problem for those calibrating off of the clamps (built in calibration procedure). I noticed that my prints have a better first layer when I calibrate using the feeler gauge method.
To fix this I will order thicker glass in the future (3.3mm). A temporary fix - I hate those! - is to shim it a little in the corners.
I have been testing shim material and have found some high temp (400F) material in 0.7mm thickness that works great.
I will be including 4 squares of this in all future glass / heater.
In my testing I found no warping or distortion using the shims.

If you want a set of shims, email me your address at jdholbrook33 (at) yahoo.com and I'll mail them out to you.

Thanks for all the nice words and feedback up to this point.

James

I recently purchased the glass and used the aluminum foil method.  I put the foil between the insulation pad and the frame and it has worked so far (2 prints).   I folded the foil so the new glass and foil matched the the original glass thickness (3.3mm) and then put it around the entire outer edge except near the thermistor.  Also for reference I calibrated with the autocalibrator and had no issues.