SD4 Heatbed Installation (Page 1 of 3)

I was told myself that you need something between the Mk2 and the aluminum plate so the thermistor won't be squished, like a cork tile. haven't found one locally yet.
I'm thinking of using just a drop of superglue on the edges of the Mk2, cork and aluminum "sandwhich" so they will stay in place "permanently", then use binder clips to attach the glass plate to that "sandwich" temporarily while printing.

Also to make it easier to connect/disconnect the power supply to the printer after adding the separate heatbed wires add some kind of plug/socket maybe.

I'm still waiting my own MK2B heatbed to be delivered so I'll try this exact same thing.

slimstar2, what amps SSR are you using and have you needed to cool it?
My seller told me for a 12 amps a 40 amp SSR shouldn't need cooling.

You had with the stock heat pad, right?

BTW, what's the connector which goes here called?

Wouldn't want to scavenge from the stock heatpad.

I use an automotive type relay for the bed heater , as I said I like the audible feedback I get from the relay and an SSR for the extruder These are what I used found them on Ebay  "2 pins 2.54mm XH-2P DIP white Connector" The bed heater I used comes with double stick already on it . It simply replaces the original heater on the bottom of the plate so there is no problem with the thermistor .

I was mostly responding to this

8 Guage wire is huge on the AC side of a PSU.
I have also run Mechanical relay's and although it isn't my preference (clicking drives me crazy) it functions just fine.
I run an AC bed heater so the SSR and proper control of 500 watts is paramount.
for a 12 volt bed heater there is a little more wiggle room.

I've chosen 8 awg wire because NEC codes recommend it and at least it won't be my cables burning and causing a fire.  The 40amp SSR was chosen as a safety precaution against spikes in voltage.

How do you guys physically mount the new heatbeds to the SD4 though? 
I'm intrigued at the idea of a cork tile. Is this what is being referenced here?

Ah I figured there was something interesting going on with the conversions of wall outlet standard voltage/amps.  Good call.  Regardless, 8awg wire shouldn't be a problem as it's overkill anyhow.  I've already got the stuff.

Is that the cork tile being discussed?

What about the jumpers and those "fork" connectors you screw on the PSU? Do they also need to be thick or does for tiny distance not matter?

That's pretty thin. 12 awg is about 2mm diameter right?

Is the Z carriage ("aluminum platform") by any chance perfectly level, and the adjustable screws are there because attaching the aluminum bed directly to the Z carriage would squish and damage the silicone pad? if that's the case, then its not an issue with MK2 heatbeds as the heater is on top with MK2 heatbeds. We can find some way to attach the aluminum bed to the Z carriage (aluminum platform) directly without screws and get rid of bed leveling requirement. Maybe even get rid of the aluminum bed completely and use something else which is strong but doesn't conduct heat so much.
This is unliekly, but just checking.

Hi there
I am upgrading a basic solidoodle 2 which I bought.  It has no heater at all.  I have managed to get an mk2 board 8x8 to fit in the space (barely) with the printer using the original springs that were on the small acrylic bed.
I want to follow instructions above for wiring but this is not my expertise !

Is the relay item on link suitable for switching dc ?  It says 24v ~ 380V AC

Also is the mk2 board thermistor plugged in to the motherboard socket ?

Okay, removal of the heater pad under the aluminum build plate is proving to be extremely difficult.  That adhesive they used is incredibly strong and messy.  I'm now looking for an alternative route for a build plate.

Instead of using the aluminum plate, I'm thinking of using another sheet of glass 8"x8" instead.  Thus, I would have something like the picture below.
Glass ontop of PCB heatbed ontop of cork tile ontop of glass.

I have drill bits to cut through the glass for installing the original 3 screws onto the bottom base plate

Will there be any problems with this configuration over time?

To fix rotation, flip the image 90 degrees clockwise.

Okay, I tore off the heater pad.  That thing is indestructible!  Anyhow, I was able to salvage the temperature sensor and cabling, making my life easier in that regard.  I cleaned off all the gunk from the adhesives using rubbing alcohol and now the aluminum build plate is shiny.

Without the clips, how do you secure the glass bed to the PCB heatbed?