Re: SD4 Heatbed Installation
So wait, now we're saying the undersized stock heater is better than a MK2? I'm really confused...
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SoliForum - 3D Printing Community → Hacks & Mods → SD4 Heatbed Installation
So wait, now we're saying the undersized stock heater is better than a MK2? I'm really confused...
nbourg8 wrote:I'm starting this thread because I have not found a proper way to install a new heatbed on the SD4 Printrboard 3d Printer. My intention is to simply lay the new heatbed on top of the metal surface that comes with the SD4 and remove the heater mat from underneath. Then, ontop of the new heatbed, a 3/16" sheet of glass cut from lowes 8"x8".
My parts:
40A SSR Solid State Relay
....i have a problem with that.. you link a DC to AC SSR, but you need a DC to DC SSR like this one: http://www.amazon.com/Amico-SSR-40DD-Co … B009AQNBJW
Good catch YSB!!!
beware... my link is just for the example. if you read the comment , you will see that it's not the best quality...
if i were you, i will search for something of 60A or more (seem that SSR are a bit overrated when they come from china..) instead of 40A.
this one seem ok ( http://www.amazon.com/Hoymk-Amr-60dd-Ac … amp;sr=1-2 ) but it come from china.. so expect long delivery...
Thanks again YSB.
I've updated the original post to include my new SSR 60A 3-32VDC 5-110VDC.
If at first you don't succeed... Disappointed with my first attempt I replaced the heatbed again - this time with much better results. I decided I liked the original idea of the SD design (heat pad on back with aluminum to spread the heat) but felt it needed a little boosting to improve the heatup time and to keep it flat.
I purchased 0.25" thick piece of Alcoa cast aluminum off eBay for $18 (2X the thickness of the stock and ground flat to sub-mil accuracy) and after drilling and tapping all the holes attached a 8"x8" 300W silicon heatpad (also from eBay for $20). Next, I added a layer of aluminum foil to help reflect the heat upward followed by a piece of 0.25" thick felt for insulation. Finally, I printed a fixture to hold the glass plate in place.:
I wired the heatpad directly to my 50A PSU mounted on the back of the unit:
And now the money shot - 10C delta from max to min *across the entire platform* (most of the area was <5C delta). Pretty pleased with this:
It heats up to 100C in 12 minutes (Actual - RH thinks it reached temperature in <5minutes). Maybe once I tune the PID, this will improve, but even this is almost half my previous bed.
[Note: the cool spot in the middle is caused by a chip of glass missing from the back side that came off with a print creating an airgap between the glass and the bed there. A pristine plate should not have that.]
I would have never been so ambitious with my old heatbed but now I can load it up and go take a nap!
Very Nice!... but no unattended printing!!
Very Nice!... but no unattended printing!!
Seriously +1000. My rumba halted today for some unknown reason with heaters on and no errors. Thank god I was right there. In the 30 seconds it took me to decide to power off the machine and start it back up, the e3d read 280 after a restart. Had I been even a few minutes later you all would've heard the latest "3d printing ruined my life" story.
Don't do it.
Hmmm. I suppose I'm playing with fire here (perhaps quite literally) but there is no way I'm going to sit around watching paint dry^H^H^H^H^H models print. I do keep tabs via the webcams and have a fire alarm in the equipment closet where I keep the printer. Maybe I should design a redundant and independent temp sensor. Something that cuts power if the extruder exceeds 290 or the heatbed exceeds 120. In fact, I'll go search - I bets someone's already done it.
An auto fire extinguisher is pretty much essential if you are serious about leaving your machine unattended. ABS is a petroleum based plastic. The printed parts are not so bad about igniting, but the filament is pretty much a huge roll of firey hell. I wish I had video, but after reading Skyminer's thread I did some tests on Solidoodle ABS (what else is it good for?). Flame has no problem traveling down the filament, onto the spool, and igniting into a big fireball with a quickness. Indoors, it wouldn't be much different than igniting a big puddle of gasoline.
To this day I regret not making a video!
Not saying this is a solution, but what would you guys suggest to use for the short time you absolutely can't look after the print?
What kind of sensor should be used?
And this thread got me wondering again if a MK2 heatbed is better or even as good as a heat pad...
It seemed like an MK2 is better at heat distribution, but now the thermal images show otherwise?
It seemed like an MK2 is better at heat distribution, but now the thermal images show otherwise?
Mine did. Hard to compete with a big block of aluminum for heat distribution. Nothing is free - I pay for it in heatup time but with the 300W heatpad, it is much more tolerable.
I didn't find much in the way of ready to go fire monitors in the 20 minutes I spent on it. Found this but it's very pricey and for 240V (electric stove application).
I'm going to pick up one of these
http://www.amazon.com/Flame-Defender-12 … e+defender
A thread about alternative heatpads is a great place to talk about fire safety, but I'm sorry for taking it so far off topic.
I'm going to pick up one of these
http://www.amazon.com/Flame-Defender-12 … e+defenderA thread about alternative heatpads is a great place to talk about fire safety, but I'm sorry for taking it so far off topic.
12kg is a bit overkill ... the 2 kg version is enough for one printer....
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