Odd circle test results (Page 3 of 24)

I'm not sure about that , but at this point who knows.

here's a theory I have which might explain the deformation to not equal amount of force between the left side of the back rod and right side which I think causes bending of the rod. Its very exaggerated in this pic to make it simpler.
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just a thought.

Also, I've reflashed my printer. Same.

Wait. Not quite man. I'm not talking about the back Y rod. I'm talking about the 2 X rods. Those are what is bending more so than the back Y rod. And they aren't bending so much as ending up at an angle temporarily during direction changes. If you were to plot the printer's y position on a graph from left to right where this direction indicates time, you'd have a sine wave with flat tops and bottoms. Does that make sense? The flat portions would indicate the points where torsion causes loss of energy and the derivative at that point would be 0, but rather than being an instantaneous point (as a usual wave) it would have a longer period.

This issue has nothing to do with the back Y rod. This is all about the way the carriage connects to the two parallel rods.

Both of you are very confused. Perhaps I have not explained it clearly enough. This is related to the two parallel rods running along the side of the printer. Look at the way the Y carriage attaches to the right rod. Notice there are two Teflon blocks, one on top and one on bottom. Notice also that you can move the right side of the carriage up and down. This is most likely the reason for our trouble.

I'm not good at drawing 2D images, but think about what happens during direction changes. That side of the rod has 2 unnecessary and defeating degrees of freedom: it can move up and down, and it can come out of square with the left side.

The "bushing" I mentioned may in fact be a linear bearing. It's located where the X motor is.

If you still don't get it, wait until I can get home and I'll design something to replace that bottom Teflon block. It will basically be a square with an 8mm arc cut out of it to fit on the rod and remove the extra degrees of freedom. The challenge is designing it so it's not too loose and not too tight. It will also have a limited life because I'm pretty sure lithium grease will destroy the ABS over time.

This will only be a hack. The only permanent solution is to upgrade the carriage, which is my next step after this experiment. SUCH A SHAME. I don't know how a company that's been designing printers for years and has had such an awesome community showing them better ways to do things is still screwing it up. I can't WAIT to see how they screwed up the Press!

OT: this is why the e3d rocks. I couldn't get this to print without supports with the sloppy stock hotend. E3d had no trouble

I originally was trying to think of a solution like this.  The problem is that was designed for the X-carriage where you have two parallel rods and bushings on one and Teflon blocks on the other.  This helped offset non perfect rods and actually worked alright.  That thingiverse part helped take up the up/down motion while leaving enough flexibility to deal with the imperfect rods.

In this case it is used on the right y-carriage and even though there are 2 rods parallel to one another.  It is simply too far apart from the left side with the bushings.  This is actually allowing the 2 x-axis rods to twist and in doing so binding the teflon blocks on the right Y-carriage.  This explains why jagowilson was continually dealing with the bolts holding the blocks coming loose.  There are a whole lot of different forces at play here so anything that can be done to stop the twisting of the x-rods at the right Y-axis rod carriage should help.

jagowilson has a good plan to design and test this theory so for now I'd just stand by and wait.

No, it doesn't
There are two screws on the right side of the right side of the carriage. The bottom one can be adjusted. You can loosen the bottom screw (I think it was the bottom one), move the white nylon bushing (or whatever its called) with the screw going through it higher, then tighten. it won't move up and down anymore.
If I understood you correctly.

So you think my assumption that its a slight bending of the back rod causing this problem is wrong?
I can't think of anything else.
If I understood you correctly, the right side of the carriage being able to go slightly up and down is not the case either because mine doesn't and you can adjust yours too...

Sorry wardjr, I don't get it. Too exhausted. I will reread what you guys wrote tomorrow. I wish you luck and hope to see some good news when I come back.

I have. Mine is not bent.

Thee post hat trick. Put software concerns to rest. I know that isn't where this is. Software is what I do. All day. I've investigated that deeply and I promise you software is not the problem and you will get nowhere looking for software problems.

Noted, I'm still going to perform the angle tests as I'm stubborn and it might unveil slip in the steppers or a friction/sticking or something.

@all,
According to the solidoodle tech response, a multimeter test was possible.  I did this last night and noticed that upon testing location E (X,Y,Z,E), the voltage was 1v when solidoodle claims it should be .250v.  This could be due to old documetnation on solidoodle's part but worth mentioning.  I don't even know what E is... LOL

You're not wrong but also not entirely correct.  A bent rod could cause binding and if the bend is in the horizontal plane wouldn't  really show any other symptoms.  Especially if it were one of the
Y-axis rods.

Depending on the source code license, Simplify3D could use the Slic3r source code, in whole or in part ( since apparently Slic3r is open source ) and not have to mention it, so you wouldn't even know it.