76

Re: DIY Aluminium 3D-Printer, build 2 (page 4)

As are we wink

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

77

Re: DIY Aluminium 3D-Printer, build 2 (page 4)

wardjr wrote:

As are we wink

+1

SD2 - Glass Bed, Fans on PCB and Y motor, Custom enclosure
Slicer - Simplify3D

78 (edited by grob 2014-09-23 01:39:21)

Re: DIY Aluminium 3D-Printer, build 2 (page 4)

toobyaas wrote:

Took 23min @65mm/sec! I'm impressed to my own work big_smile

You're not the only one!! Well done. smile

SD3. Mk2b + glass, heated enclosure, GT2 belts, direct drive y shaft, linear bearings, bowden-feed E3D v5 w/ 0.9° stepper
Smoothieboard via Octoprint on RPi

79 (edited by toobyaas 2014-09-23 03:37:44)

Re: DIY Aluminium 3D-Printer, build 2 (page 4)

Thanks for all of you!
Have any of you tried printing ABS to blue masking tape? I'm bit astonished when it just sticks to it, while people using hairspray etc yikes

Now when I've printed couple dozen parts, is time to plan some improvements! First of course I need to make wirings go nicely. I already printed couple parts of cable chain from thingiverse as test, works great! Then I should make the endstops working so I don't need every time calibrate Z-axis. And find aluminium plate so I can make print bed and get it level!

You can also see kind of vibration on latest part surface. It's probably caused by x-axis wobbling, since there is only one belt on one side and weak quality linear bearings which have too much clearance. Need to say that I'm not satisfied with quality of them, but what you can expect from cheap bearings. However this is something what I want to be fixed, even it doesn't matter so much.
I've planned to make new bearing blocks which have couple ball bearings rolling on chrome bar. Maybe that would be a lot robust way to do bearing.

Now I can print those parts first to test how they works! big_smile

80

Re: DIY Aluminium 3D-Printer, build 2 (page 4)

Curious: where did you get your hotend?

Chuck Bittner is a quadriplegic gamer who is petitioning the major console developers to include internal button remapping in all console games. You can help.
Sign Chuck Bittners petition

81

Re: DIY Aluminium 3D-Printer, build 2 (page 4)

It came in the same order from China where was steppers etc. Seller said it's E3D but it looks bit different. So I don't know what it really is big_smile

82

Re: DIY Aluminium 3D-Printer, build 2 (page 4)

Hey! Did today aluminum build plate from 4mm plate. I used only hand tools this time because I don't have else at home. I made also nice finish to surface with steel wool. It still succeed pretty well. Here is photos of it:
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/52664966/IMG_2014092551273.jpg

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/52664966/IMG_2014092515157.jpg

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/526 … ollage.jpg

83

Re: DIY Aluminium 3D-Printer, build 2 (page 4)

Hello! Now been just printing parts and doing some improvements.

I was getting bored to adjust Z-zero always when restarting printer and only because it didn't have mount for end stop! So I planned simple mount for normal push button and printed it. It's just tight enough to stay on same spot and still is easy to adjust. Did also measurements and always sets in the same hundredth of millimeter when homing Z-axis. I still might do one from aluminium big_smile
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/52664966/IMG_2014092811385.jpg

And then, I printed cable chain for Z-axis also! Found good model from thingiverse and designed own heads for it to match my printer. My longest print so far came with this when I printed 20 pieces of these. It took over 7 hours smile Now extruder and hotend wiring is nicely attached and doesn't wing on the heat bed!
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/52664966/IMG_2014092844380.jpg

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/52664966/IMG_201409282287.jpg

84 (edited by toobyaas 2014-09-30 19:00:09)

Re: DIY Aluminium 3D-Printer, build 2 (page 4)

Today I received four 40mm fans that I ordered some time ago. So right away I designed mount to attach one to hotend! I was surprised since it was good at first desing version and print! Printed at 0,2mm layer, 70mm/sec and 10% infill, it took 1h 3min.

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/52664966/IMG_201409300437.jpg

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/526 … 305113.jpg
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/526 … 308118.jpg
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/526 … 036482.jpg

I can upload STL-file if someone are intrested of it. Should fit hotend diameter 20mm and length 36mm

Do somebody know how should I calibrate my printer to get smoother arcs ?

85

Re: DIY Aluminium 3D-Printer, build 2 (page 4)

Hey all! Nothing special happened here, but next thing is great improvement. I've been struggling with seeing the printing process because I have so weak lightning in my room and priter don't have any lights. So I figured out that I could use led bulbs for cars and bought couple of license plate bulbs and designed mounts for them. As you can see from the picture, they just snaps to the bars ans bulb snaps to the mount. There are two holes for wiring also, so I can just put wire there and bend it to match to the contact surface. Works great and now I can see what is happening!

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/52664966/IMG_2014101013157.jpg

https://db.tt/0Yk647gm
https://db.tt/dUCJpUxo
https://db.tt/tqGN5K0u

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/52664966/IMG_2014101027526.jpg

Made also second mount to another side. Somebody maybe noticed fan which are blowing to hot end. I made fan mount for two fan, one of them blows to nozle and second to hot end.

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/52664966/IMG_2014101052837.jpg

I have now little vacation, so maybe I have enough time to desing new bearing for linear guides.. That's it for this time!

86

Re: DIY Aluminium 3D-Printer, build 2 (page 4)

Hello! Didn't reach new plans, but got maybe better idea. While I took closer look at my problem ("vibrating" surface like this:https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/526 … 056606.jpg ) I realised that there isn't so much loose in bearings. Instead, this "vibrating" is mainly caused by uneven positioning since it got only one belt on the other side of X-axis. So the other end of axis can wiggle freely producing ugly and inaccurate surface.
I think the easiest solution to fix this is adding another belt for empty side of X-axis. Or at least it would be good attempt. That brought another idea to my mind! Actually somebody did mention it earlier in this topic. Adding reduce gearing to both motors. 1:2 ratio would have still pretty small sized pulleys and maybe it would give more accuracy and torque(well not actual torque)! Here is demonstrating pic of it https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/526 … raatio.jpg (mad Photoshop skills big_smile)

What do you think? Feel free to discuss and tell your opinion smile

Another thing. I read from somewhere that acrylic plate would give great adhesion even without heated bed for ABS plastic. Do solidoodle have that kind of bed..?
However, I did remember that I have some plate in warehouse. It's clear plexiglass or acrylic, I can't really say because its pretty old sheet. Got little piece cut for test and it turns out to work almost too well! Part sticks to it so well that I needed to take plate off and bend it, so part did separate from it. I cut also plate that covers print area, but I don't have pic of it. Hard thing is to get that straight hmm
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/52664966/IMG_2014102034424.jpg

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/52664966/IMG_2014102018928.jpg

Something little always wink

87 (edited by toobyaas 2014-10-22 05:52:58)

Re: DIY Aluminium 3D-Printer, build 2 (page 4)

...Or maybe I should learn from my mistakes and build whole new printer! Now when I have much more knowledge about this stuff and needed electrical parts already, it would be way easier to desing new one.

And I would move hot end rather than bed, as people guided me earlier smile

Beefy aluminium extrusion frame and H-belt system is very interesting. I would be happy to hear your opinions and experiences! Let's see what I'll do.

Edit: http://openbuildspartstore.com/black-v- … fullSite=1 I'm getting excited!

88 (edited by toobyaas 2014-10-23 05:35:35)

Re: DIY Aluminium 3D-Printer, build 2 (page 4)

One more post..
I've been planning and made decision that I'm going to build completely new printer. When I started this project, I was pretty sure that I wouldn't be satisfied with the first version. This printer have potential to be good, but I don't want to do fixes allover. Main design should be better!

So, I started designing and new build will have v-slot extrusion frame and those will work as linear rails also. I've planning to make H-bot belt system to this. And lots of billet parts of course wink Maybe I'll do it with slightly more time also big_smile

Is here interested people if I do new topic for it?

89

Re: DIY Aluminium 3D-Printer, build 2 (page 4)

And again my post.. big_smile

I've been designing new printer and ordering parts for it! I build it with v-slot extrusion etc.

I found this from somewhere and I think it's very interesting system! http://mutley3d.com/Flex3Drive/

So, I designed my own version of it, with steel worm and brass gear. This is a first prototype for just testing it with my old extruder. For new printer I've planned to build whole new extruder with this kind of power transmission. Weight is way less than stepper motor wink

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/52664966/IMG_2014110742970.jpg

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/52664966/IMG_201411077274.jpg

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/52664966/IMG_2014110731637.jpg

90

Re: DIY Aluminium 3D-Printer, build 2 (page 4)

As always... Nice work

It'll be interesting to see the quality of the print in regards to retraction issues.

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

91

Re: DIY Aluminium 3D-Printer, build 2 (page 4)

Thanks!

Yes, I'm bit worried about that too. I did small test print, and it seemed pretty good even I didn't touch any of retraction settings. I think this is good compromise between direct drive and bowden. And if it works well, it have only good features of both!

92

Re: DIY Aluminium 3D-Printer, build 2 (page 4)

That is nuts! Nice work!

93

Re: DIY Aluminium 3D-Printer, build 2 (page 4)

Thank you!
However it have too slow gearing with 9mm filament pulley. I planned to make ~20mm pulley for new extruder. But recreation isn't problem even with this pulley.

Here is some teaser of upcoming:
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/52664966/IMG_201411117557.jpg

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/52664966/IMG_2014111126679.jpg

94

Re: DIY Aluminium 3D-Printer, build 2 (page 4)

The openbuilds extrusions are nice but those wheels really add up at $3.95 each.  I am building a printer with the 2040 extrusions and 8mm lead screws with 20 start 25mm lead.  Should be able to drive quite fast and be really precise.

95

Re: DIY Aluminium 3D-Printer, build 2 (page 4)

Yep, wheels are getting pricey when buy many. That's why I made them myself. Bought 50pcs of those bearings, they cost about 15 euros. And I made also those angle pieces, so I saved about 100e big_smile

Oh, sounds interesting! Do you have project blog somewhere? And where did you get those leadscrews yikes

Here is test video from today. I printed wheel plate just for testing, I make one from aluminum (ofcourse big_smile) maybe next week.

96

Re: DIY Aluminium 3D-Printer, build 2 (page 4)

I wish I had the capability to machine some myself I would save quite a bit in the long run.  The screws are from Helix Precision but they arent cheap.  Its about $270 for the screws, anti-backlash nuts and end machining.  The benefit is that they provide 0.0002" accuracy per inch and have 25mm travel per rotation.

97

Re: DIY Aluminium 3D-Printer, build 2 (page 4)

Those screws sounds pretty good, I bet it'll be very precise printer! Yes, machining capability is great thing for me. I wouldn't have started building my own printer if I couldn't do machinings myself. Like you said, it is very expensive. Sadly I have that capability only to next autumn.

Today I made wheel plates from aluminum. I think there is nothing special in them. Except, I made very well working belt clamp to x-plate! You see it in picture.
Gantry is very rigid now, even I haven't tighten everything up yet. But those plastic wheels are doubtful. They feel little flexible and that is not what I'm looking for. And it's so slippery material that bearings won't stick to them.  I go with them for now, but probably make another set of wheels from steel.

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/52664966/IMG_201411174998.jpg

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/52664966/IMG_2014111724184.jpg

98

Re: DIY Aluminium 3D-Printer, build 2 (page 4)

toobyaas wrote:

. Sadly I have that capability only to next autumn.

Then what happens?

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

99

Re: DIY Aluminium 3D-Printer, build 2 (page 4)

I'm going to start engineer studies in university of applied sciences. Until then I'm working in machine shop so I have machines in use. Of course I also have machining capability then, but it's way more limited access.

So for now I try to make as much as possible big_smile

100

Re: DIY Aluminium 3D-Printer, build 2 (page 4)

Keep up the good work!!!  As always I enjoy following your projects.

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions