DIY Aluminium 3D-Printer, build 2 (page 4) (Page 3 of 7)

The platform looks like it is moving well.  Hope I am not asking too many questions (I wish more had been interested when I designed the delta, would have let me solve some problems before I got to them), but I am assuming you are putting the extruder on the z axis?  If so, Do you have a sketch on where you are putting it.  I am interested because I am not sure how large your print area is going to be, but it looks like the potential size of the bid is only going to be about a quarter of the actual size of the printer.  Unless of course we are looking at this movement upside down and you are putting the extruder on the x and y axis?  Anyway, thanks for putting up with my input

First, awesome work.

From the video: You are moving at a pretty aggressive speed with a lot of mass. While your movement looks very smooth (good design) the motor still needs to overcome the dynamic forces to change the moment from one direction to the other. Yes, traditionally a pulley slip would be the usual suspect, but the motor current is more likely for a 3D printer setup. This is a problem for most printers when pushing a Y axis that is mostly made from plastic parts and much smaller diameter rods.

Hi, to be honest, your answer did not make sense to me.
You said "max voltage on stepper driver" and the same time you say "cant answer what voltage it was running."

The number of wires connected to the motor from the driver must be 4, not 2, it will not work with only 1 phase...

Yes, this did not make much sense to me as an answer :). But you tried; I appreciate. Your machine work is very nice.

The belt system is in my mind better, anyway.

Hey! Have anybody tried aluminium bed instead of glass bed? I met this when I was searching things on internet http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:195653

It would be easy to do on tomorrow, since I'm going to my old school to make bed holder. Could use same 6mm aluminium plate by just milling couple millimeters off it.

It would be so easy to clamp with heatbed! Maybe sand blasted surface would stick to ABS without any adhesives? It would be also lighter than glass.

Thanks for the reply! Yep, that is what I have read too. That is good point for the glass bed! I'm still curious how will sanblasted aluminium work with ABS.. Maybe I'll give it a try because it's so easy to do with same effort!
Probably this will still end up so that I have glass bed, but you have seen that I like to try things

Using hairspray, I have printed on the aluminum bed of the Solidoodle, but abs tends to warp easily on it.  I have gotten pretty good results using Kapton tape.  Tried elmer's glue and it works, but I am not a fan.  I can get similiar results with hairspray and Kapton without the mess I get from glue.

I have it mounted to a glass bed because I wanted to be able to take off the platform if I needed to, but if your aluminum bed is nice and straight, it will work fine on that.  Here's a pic of it on the delta:

http://i.imgur.com/tYsNr2i.jpg

I didn't have enough time to do build plate also But I did get bed holder ready! I hate to do things in hurry, but sometimes you just need to do so. I would say this  is still pretty successful part. Could be more thinner but it's difficult to say how stiff it would be when planning. Doesn't weight much though.

When I get home from work, I'll assemble it and do some straighness measurements with dial gauge You can expect some photos of it!

If I can get 4mm aluminum plate from somewhere, I could do build plate from it with hand tools. Lets see.

Hey, I don't mind your english. It is good. 

When you adjusted the screw, you did not alter the voltage to the motor drive. You adjusted the current-limit on the stepper motor driver. The current limit controls the "current" going to the motor.  The current going to the motor determines how strong the motor is, *if the voltage is high enough.* As the motor spins faster, it needs a higher voltage to the reach the current-limit you set.   This is only for stepper motors...different motor types work differently.

The voltage is determined by the two wires going into the rumba board. The two wires do not need to be very thick, because they are a higher voltage and the wire limits how much current can flow, but not the voltage. The power carried by the wires is (Power = Voltage*Current) . Even if they are too thin, it is not really the thinness that slows down the motor, but in the worst case the wire might get too hot and melt.

The only reliable way to know what the voltage going into the Rumba is, is with a voltage meter.   

The image you attached with your motor spec does not include usable information, unfortunately. It says things like "20% inductance accuracy" but not what the value of inductance is.

All these said, you probably are OK. Most of the time you probably have a 12V power supply to the RUMBA, and the motors are probably low voltage motors which will work OK.  If you ever have problems with steps at higher speed on the belt system, maybe we can explore the topic more.

That looks like some fine 3d printing to me that is one of the fastest builds I have ever seen.  Especially with all the machining you did.  You are truely talented.

Hello! Not new parts to printer this time I've been just printing and adjusting things up! Better quality is printed in every print I'm just wondering, why my ABS stics very well to blue masking tape with heatbed at 82C? Really no need to any adhesives

Firts real are ready, and did those with too high temp. In second photo you can see pretty dracamatic difference with those parts. one is printed with 250C and second with 225C. Much better, I would say. I did calibration cube where temp changes 5 degrees at every 5mm and it showed good temp to me!