You are not logged in. Please login or register.
SoliForum - 3D Printing Community → Filastruder → squealing?
Hi I'm a half hour into my 8 hour burn in of the machine.
It started squealing every 30 seconds or so. Is this normal?
While I'm typing this it seems to have stopped. I assume it the metal grinding/fitting and will dissipate but I just wanted to check.
Thanks
-Andrew
That's probably nothing to worry about... let me know if it keeps up.
Edit: It is probably one of three things:
1.) Pellet caught between auger and barrel, getting sheared in half or otherwise pinched
2.) Thrust bearing (probably not)
3.) Motor/auger coupling (probably not)
Hmm so I'm at work but I think I figured it out.
I ran abs(dry white cylinder pellets) for 3 hours at 160C should be 180C
Stupid noob Mistake, but it still extruded at that temp. I'm sure it wasn't good for the device 
Think anything's damaged(as the sound went away mostly) Or should I fire it up to 180C and finish the other 5 hour burn in?
Nope, that shouldn't damage anything, especially if the motor didn't stall. You should be all set!
Thanks that's good to hear, I will give it another shot tonight.
Hi Elmoret,
First off just would like to say thank you for the help.
I am probably into some trouble now
I gave it a good 20 min heatup to 180 today. (starting hour 4 of 8)
So now its not much at all. It also has about 3-4 seconds then a grinding and thump and you can see the hot end jump like its hitting something.
I am heating to 190 after seeing this video. youtube (.com) /watch?v=8U98WOlUTLY
This guy has about 10x the flow rate I had yesterday. I probably made a total of 20 feet in 3 hours.
I'm hoping it just needs to push some bad plastic through. I'm going to try to clean the tip
180 or 190C are both fine.
20 feet in 3 hours reasonable for 160C. Grinding and thump are not good, though.
Does this apply to you?
http://www.soliforum.com/topic/4424/par … a-v13-kit/
Are your supports still parallel? Thrust plate undamaged? It is also possible you have some debris blocking the nozzle, you'll need to drill the hole (1/16" bit) or remove the nozzle (heat to 180C, unplug unit, remove a half turn at a time as it cools down).
Not sure, just received it in the mail yesterday as a fully assembled unit. It's looking like I need to pull the case off to check all this right?
I noticed its not really holding 190 at all, falls to 175-180.
So would you advise letting it cool and then checking the internals or trying to extrude some more to see if it clears up?
The noise from this is comparable to someone drilling a series of holes in wood.
Thank you,
-Andrew
Fully assembled! That is good to know! I'll get Rob in here - he builds and supports the fully assembled version. Ignore my previous troubleshooting questions.
Typically if you aren't hitting set temps, the fan needs to be angled away from the hotend.
Thank you elmoret.
Fully Assembled #208
The thumping wasn't there yesterday so I thought it might just be some un-melted plastic jamming it but at this temp and given its been heated for a hour or so I would think it would of resolved itself?
I think maybe something came loose. I also have the fan pointed as far away as I can tilt it already. I noticed it dropped the temp yesterday when I was working with it, and noticed it jump back up when I tilted away. I will play with it some more.
-----------update
the fan is a far as I can tilt it away from the hot end.
Also the 3d printed hopper 'sways' or can sway. not sure if this matters as the photos online(minus box) look like its sturdy enough to hold weight.
The thumping is probably the washer in the coupling.
The coupling between the motor and feedscrew has a mechanical fuse, a washer that will deform if the extruder is overloaded. Running ABS at 160C would definitely do this, and it would also result in the movement at the hotend you're observing. I'm 95% sure that's what's happening.
The good news is, a new washer is around 10 cents and can be replaced in 10 minutes or so. I'll let Rob get here and giv eyou specific instructions.
Don't run ABS at 160C! 
Hoppers on kits hold weight because of the length of the 4 main bolts - they keep it vertical. Hoppers on fully assembled versions will hit the wood before tipping completely. They need to be a clearance fit in case the barrel tightens (this may have happened in your case, since you stalled the extruder).
Thank you Elmoret, a 10 cent fix would make my day
The hopper wiggles between the edges of the wood out of the box. I'm not sure if it tips as I haven't removed the case or anything like that. So I would guess my barrel must still be loose (insert inappropriate joke here). From your comment It sounds normal.
--------------Root Cause Analysis = User error hehe
I bought 10lbs of ABS and PLA and grabbed the wrong bag(damn you excitement).
It didn't him me till the next day till a you-tube video zoomed in on a pellet that I realized I mixed up the plastics
I'm cooling it off so I can clear the hopper.
Glad it sounds like a simple fix.
Do you know the washer size so I can hit the store tomorrow?
Thank you guys,
-Andrew
You need something 1.5mm thick, 9.5mm wide. Typically that's a #8 washer with the sides filed down.
Thanks, Just double checking
Filed down means smooth edged right. Like in the photo you posted earlier?
Filed in order to make it less wide, giving it a straight edge. I haven't posted a picture of one recently, I changed over to dowel pins on the kits after Kickstarter, and Rob changed to dowel pins at serial number FA 145.
We went to dowel pins starting at machine 145.
bugmage, please email us ([email protected]) if you keep having issues or need replacement parts.
Hi Guys, I take it I can't get a new dowel pin from home depot.
I would like to disassemble it tonight to verify the issue. Are you still going to post Rob's instructions for checking the rod or should I email support?
I think it may be a good idea to post the instructions just in case other users have this issue they can self diagnose.
Thank you,
-Andrew
You can make a dowel pin by getting a 1/32 drill bit and cutting off the shank.
I knew it was one of those 32s. Fractions suck.
Instructions for putting in a new auger/motor key.
-First remove the back panel (9 screws on the back)
-Remove the final 3 screws for the motor mount support. The motor is then free to be removed. Be careful of the wires though. You don't want to pull them out of the connectors.
-Remove the socket and clear it of any debree (destroyed washers and such)
-Take one or two #8 washers and wrap them in painters tape. I say one or two because you want a snug fit between the flat of the motor shaft and the socket. The painters tape acts as a crumple zone and locks the washer in place. If you are using a dowel pin, wrap it in painters tape too. Place it on the flat of the motor shaft and into the socket.
Once the socket is on the motor, place the assemble back into the machine. The other end of the socket will slide over the auger.
Screw everything back down and you are good to go.
Heat the machine back up to temp and run the machine with an empty hopper. Verify that the auger is rotating.
Hi i'm on my way to the hardware store. do you know the length of the pin in case its in stock? Thank you
I very much doubt they'd have one, but I use 5/8" pins. It needs to be solid steel, preferably stainless.
So apparently black drill bits are harder than diamond.
So it seems this rod just fills the gap and is designed to break first before everything else.
Can I replace it with a washer? I broke one drill bit but its about 2x as long as the original piece. I have another but I doubt I can get it down to the right size without a powered saw.
It sounds like I can just take 2 washers, tape them up and use them. I can also see a little gouge in the coupler so the washer might be better for surface area reasons?
I also have a nail that's much easier to cut
Yes, you can use a washer. I talked about it in post 13.
A nail is probably too soft. Anything 1" or shorter will do. It does need to be a hard material.
SoliForum - 3D Printing Community → Filastruder → squealing?
Powered by PunBB, supported by Informer Technologies, Inc.
