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Topic: watercooled hot end

https://twitter.com/fosscad/status/3726 … 44/photo/1

was shown this today don't know much more

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Re: watercooled hot end

But why?

E3D does 300C all day long, nylon and polycarb are no problem. No hassle of watercooling. Only a few bucks more than a J-head. A no-brainer, really.

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Re: watercooled hot end

I just talked to him he wants it to print peek more safely

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Re: watercooled hot end

Manx wrote:

I just talked to him he wants it to print peek more safely

According to E3D:

This hot-end has been tested to beyond 400 degrees centigrade

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Re: watercooled hot end

elmoret wrote:

But why?

E3D does 300C all day long, nylon and polycarb are no problem. No hassle of watercooling. Only a few bucks more than a J-head. A no-brainer, really.

The E3D looks really tidy and professional, where as that new one is ugly as sin.

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Re: watercooled hot end

lawsy wrote:
elmoret wrote:

But why?

E3D does 300C all day long, nylon and polycarb are no problem. No hassle of watercooling. Only a few bucks more than a J-head. A no-brainer, really.

The E3D looks really tidy and professional, where as that new one is ugly as sin.


+1  ugly as ever...

SD2 with E3D, SD Press, Form 1+
Filastruder
NYLON (taulman): http://www.soliforum.com/topic/466/nylon/

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Re: watercooled hot end

this is a prototype? right?

Solidoodle2 with Ceramic tile heated bed http://www.soliforum.com/topic/2544/my- … eated-bed/
"1kg should last for an while" is a lie!

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Re: watercooled hot end

yes its a proto type he wants to use to print high temp plastics with

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Re: watercooled hot end

As I recall, Sanjay from E3D was talking about how they're also looking into doing a water-cooled version in the future.  Though he said it was to be able to fit multiple extruders into a limited space, not for printing PEEK:

http://www.soliforum.com/post/25763/#p25763

SanjayM wrote:

The whole reason for water cooling is that is able to remove more heat in a smaller weight and space. Using a fan/heatsink combo works great and is entirely appropriate for a single hotend, but a heatsink for 3 or more hotends would be silly-big/heavy. Using water lets us pack nozzles tightly under a compact lightweight cooler block. The individual nozzles aren't themselves going to perform significantly differently to an air cooled one, it's the fact that you get get more of them.

There is also the very valid point that op7ical makes, heated chambers mean that fan based heatsinking doesn't work effectively. Our testing and feedback from customers who have tried it point to 50C ambient being about the tops for the air-cooled E3D. Water obviously solves this issue.

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Re: watercooled hot end

Yeah, we can quite happily hit the needed extrusion temps for PEEK with just a fan. (Your thermistor needs to be swapped out for a thermocouple though)

If only I could get some PEEK filament made! I've tried, but no luck yet. If anyone finds or makes some I'll pay good money!

Water cooling has lots of potential in heated chambers and for many-nozzle setups, but I dont see it as being needed or even advantageous in this particular setup.

Whatever it is they are caking their heater in looks suspect. Maybe JBWeld/Epoxy type stuff or sillicone? That's not going to enjoy PEEK.

Nonetheless I wish him the best of luck, and I think his whole FOSSCAD project in general is pretty cool from an engineering standpoint.

I Design/Sell the E3D all-metal hotends. My company is called e3d-online - you can buy at www.e3d-online.com

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Re: watercooled hot end

Not PEEK filament, but just contemplating the idea of printing in high temperature material, I wonder if it might be possible to 3D extrude clay, then fire the resulting object in a kiln to get a 3D printed high temp part? (You'd need a print head more like a filastruder auger probably).

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Re: watercooled hot end

Claghorn wrote:

Not PEEK filament, but just contemplating the idea of printing in high temperature material, I wonder if it might be possible to 3D extrude clay, then fire the resulting object in a kiln to get a 3D printed high temp part? (You'd need a print head more like a filastruder auger probably).

actually, yes, its rather easy to extrude clay. just have to swap the hotend and extruder for a syringe setup that can squirt out ceramic slurry. search youtube for 'Ceramic 3D printing' http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_c0C8w_LdYM