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SoliForum - 3D Printing Community → Filastruder → Filastruder Kit Gallery - Pictures of Filastruders in the wild!
Filastruder #786 up and running !
Had almost zero problems building it, purging it and running my first batch. Now it's time to get the filawinder before I hurt myself spooling with a drill 
Number 662 is live! I've run it long enough to get all of the metal shavings and grease out of the filament -- I think.
I just need to print the switch housing and the screw top bottle adapter for pellets. Then maybe trim down the piece of wood it's mounted on.
That looks like it might be the wood (plywood) thrust plate. If it is, keep an eye on it. The wood cut by the CNC shop was too soft, and the thrust bearing will sink into it, allowing axial translation. It has been recalled, and I'l happy to send a replacement. The other option is installing a big washer to spread the thrust load over a bigger area.
It's made out of MDF, I got the version right after the switch from the plywood to the mdf.
On another note, how much plastic should one normally need to run through it to get all of the metal shavings out?
It's made out of MDF, I got the version right after the switch from the plywood to the mdf.
On another note, how much plastic should one normally need to run through it to get all of the metal shavings out?
About a pound to get most of them. After that they should drop below 0.6mm and pass through larger hotend nozzles. If you have a smaller hotend nozzle you'll want to pick up a melt filter.
Finally setup #151, and extruding! Soon as get FilaWinder will be a much happier camper!
Just finished assembling Filastruder 498 and Filawinder onto a piece of plywood. My goodness! What a difference it makes to the whole process of making filament.
The two sticks lower down the panel help prevent kinks. The one on the right stops any kink that starts to enter the winder tube passing pressure to the hot end, which otherwise would create another kink and so on ad infinitum. The stick on the left helps prevent the filament kinking backwards if, for some reason the filament gets stuck in the sensor and starts to kick back.
The green thing in the middle is a battery connected to a buzzer with a long, lightweight arm attached to a switch that detects when the filament escapes the sensor block and starts to pull thin as the winder, still thinking the filament is below the upper sensor, pulls its tight.
The filament produced is brilliant, consistent and smooth and, as you can see from the photo, pretty much exactly the right thickness.
Looking great! I'm jealous of the setup. I still pile mine on the floor.
Here is my frankenstruder
what made you change the mounting blocks to that square thing, jason_?
Well I didn't install the original thrust assembly correctly which led to the wooden pieces breaking and the thrust failing. I had to go back together with something and I had a large piece of square tubing laying around so....
I'm up and running with a vertical struder and a winder. I'd like to post a pic to memorialize my epic achievement. I am smart enough the get the gear working but am too dumb to figure how to post a picture on this forum. Can anyone help me out?
Upload to imgur and PM me the link, I'll add it to your post.
up and running! Great job guys!
working like a chaam, didn't set any records putting it together, but I'm happy with it 
working like a chaam, didn't set any records putting it together, but I'm happy with it
is that magenta PLA?
copper abs, but then went to glow in the dark green pla and had tons of problems. finaly got pla comin out between 2.75-3mm, had to add 2x fans.
copper abs, but then went to glow in the dark green pla and had tons of problems. finaly got pla comin out between 2.75-3mm, had to add 2x fans.
i was talking about your hopper and electrical box cover.
hello
can you tell me the model of the engine?
thanks
Hi,
I have Filastruder 806. I am currently awaiting electric resistant tape to cover my soldered parts. I do not come from an electrical background, but have learnt a bit of it at uni and play around with it from time to time, and I wanted to confirm whether it is ok to solder another wire onto one of the heater wires (to extend it) without changing its properties since the cables it came with are insulated differently. Furthermore, is the 5th female spade terminal a spare? I've only used four on the switches.
Thanks!
5th terminal is a spare, I include it in case you mess one up while crimping.
Its fine to solder wires to the heater wires, they're just insulated differently for the region near the band, which gets hotter than most plastic/rubber insulation can handle.
oh, ya those are pink pla, made some magenta pla though, also broke my dc motor, that was quick lol
After over a month of frustration, taking it apart several times, replacing the hopper, nipple, and socket, finding that the last owner was measuring the temperature in the wrong place, nearly running out of ABS to purge, having to redo the wiring, creating a a custom funnel for a 45-degree setup, and creating said 45 degree setup, 
IT WORKS!
It extrudes between 7 and 10 inches per minute, and it's coiling all pretty, and we've even been cutting up old purge walls to recycle our ABS for the purge of the barrel since we're just about out of Natural ABS since we have to do a fresh purge for the new barrel. Yay!
...and #1321 is up and running, currently doing a barrel purge.
Now I just need to get the melt nozzle ordered and decide on case options and the winder.
SoliForum - 3D Printing Community → Filastruder → Filastruder Kit Gallery - Pictures of Filastruders in the wild!
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