Help with putting e3d v6 in solidoodle 4 (Page 1 of 2)

do not use that little red plug, run that wiring all the way to the control board
yes, it is kind of a pain in the butt, but it is the correct way to install

what board do you have?

Ok ignore my thing about how its a 4 pin thing for my extruder, that was the stepper motor for the extruder.

It says Rev E board on it, is the stock solidoodle 4 board. I'd rather not need to replace it at the moment, with my better carriages and new hot end I should be relatively happy with it as is.

I found where the hot end plugs in, but its still just the red 2 pin plug. So I need some way to make my 2 big pins of the hot end go to that I think. Is there some adapter or did people just solder. Id really prefer to not solder to the board, so I need something that plugs in. Less risk of damage and things that can go wrong.

I know the board and the printer and it seems you may have missed where I said you could cut and splice.  So yes as Carl also suggested.  Simply cut the wires a couple inches from the board plug and splice the new wires to the old wires.

LOL, yeah, wardjr would be the expert here, not I, since he is the one that taught me most of what I know. but yes, I agree with what he said..

I asked about board because they do get changed... =P

Yes, you can splice into the stock wires - as close to the board as possible - but it is not an ideal situation.
ideally, you would get a new connector, and make a proper connection with the new wires... but I also get that this is not always feasible.

Look up how to make a "western union splice" and make sure you do a good job of it. Don't be sloppy here - that is how fires get started. Heat shrink is your best friend for this job, too, not tape.

and it is more about the actual wire diameter not the insulation diameter..

Its been a long night, but I got it working. As usual, its the little things that blow a ton of my time. I had some issues flashing but then got it working. Everything seems to be set up and working. Sadly its almost 1 AM so I cant do a test print. Eventually I need to print the lawsy tension arm and add my hobgoblin gear I got. But if its printign well without those I wontr bother for a while haha. I somehow take ages to do these little projects because I run into so many issues. so if its not needed I wont bother. But, the E3d V6 should be a pretty big upgrade so I think it was worth it.

Thanks for the help guys, it means a lot. And happy new year.

Hopefully I don't have to re post tomorow to get help on an issue I have tomorrow while testing it haha.

Can't moire be tuned out with proper vref?

So I finally did some test prints. I've been putting it off expecting something to go wrong lol. So it does work decently. But yes, I do have moire issues haha.

Heres my second test print
https://imgur.com/a/lKn0ZAf

It came out ok. My first came out exceptionally bad. But the first was also printed in larger layers and I accidentally made it 100% infill (the last thing I printed before that was my e3d v6 mount at 100% abs). The first looked like the really bad first few layers on my linked above. Except it was all the layers.

The higher layers are less bad but theres obvious moire going on. Are the really bad looking early layers just moire also but to an extreme or does it look like something else?

So while I'm here. About putting the hobgoblin gear in. I did look at this post
http://www.soliforum.com/topic/11465/e3d-hobb-goblin/
So a couple questions. I'm assuming I have to flash my board again? Do I just need to do what I did for the hot end but go and change the steps per mm to 285 or do I do that some other way?

Also he says in that post it doesnt work with the lawsy tension arm. I still have the stock one, I've had no issues with it so I havent replaced it lol. Will it work with the stock, and will I need a different washer like he said in the post? My goal is to figure these things out before hand so that I dont pull my printer apart just so I can figure out im missing something and have to put it back together stock lol.

So I finally got around to trying to put the hobb goblin in (my current projects havent needed my printer so I've been putting it off lol). I took the little screw out of the stock gear but its still firmly stuck on the shaft. Did anyone else have a similar issue and have any tips on how to get it off?

And I'm glad to know that I dont need to re flash it haha. If I even make it that far.

I had to use heat and a gear puller to get mine off

Just want to say I got everything working and printing decently. Idk exactly what was messed up but I realigned the belts and now it is working again. Adjusted the steps per mm to 285. Added a washer to my tension spring. Seems to be working well. From my current tests, no moire. I'm getting a tad of surface roughness, like its over extruding or something, but I'm already at 75% feed rate. May lower it more for testing. But overall is working satisfactorily. Theoretically better than before my upgrades. Which is about all I can ask for. If I get any more issues you guys will know haha. Thanks for all the help I've gotten, I really appreciate it.

So I've been trying to calibrate my printer. and, mostly have had success. Weird thing, is I dropped my steps per mm all the way down to 130, which extrudes 5 cm when I hit to print 5 cm. which is even less than I had before changing my gear, and I thought I was supposed to have to raise it with the new gear?

I've found while I get moire its significantly effected by my steps per mm, so I've been printing the thin wall tests and slightly tweaking my steps per mm to get it to a very small amount.

So my issue. I printed this small tube that printed fine the first time. I've tried printing it again, and it fails every time. It gets this awful looking artifacting, in the same exact spot every time.
https://imgur.com/a/YcvvJVU
The first is on the left. I have no idea why its not working now.