1 Topic by s4

  • s4
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  • Registered: 2012-09-12
  • Posts: 2

Topic: Filament, Maintenance, Wed Links, Tutorials, etc...

While waiting for my printer I have been reading about 3D printing, installing the software, and practicing designing and slicing models. I am interested in any web links the more experienced users might suggest for articles or video tutorials on Pronterface, Skeinforge, maintaining or using a 3D printer, etc. I want to learn and get as much experience as I can before the printer arrives so I can hit the ground running.


Do you use the ABS filament from Solidoodle or from other suppliers? Amazon offers ABS filament from 'Octave'. Has anyone tried that?


What tools should I be collecting for when my printer arrives?


How often do you change the Kapton tape?


Is it better to use PTFE Grease rather than silicon Grease?


Has anyone printed with PLA Filament? Are there standard settings to use with that? When making parts what is the practical difference between making them in PLA or ABS?


Once the printer is set up does it run reliably or do you have to do regular maintenance, fixing, cleaning, etc?

2 Reply by Caucasian

  • Caucasian
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  • Registered: 2012-08-07
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Re: Filament, Maintenance, Wed Links, Tutorials, etc...

I ordered the natural ABS from Solidoodle and it prints well. I also have some black filament that I have ordered from Afina3D that is working like a champ too. I know the only warnings have been from some Chinese manufacturers that had some rather disappointing 'surprises' in the ABS. There is good information here (http://www.soliforum.com/topic/31/world … s-abs-pla/) regarding that.

Tools - a small paint scraper (2" wide head) for removing prints, tooth brush for removing ABS dust from extruder, 2.5 hex head (pretty much all you need to disassemble the entire thing, adjust the bed, etc), tweezers (for print removal, removing excess "leaked" ABS from nozzle before starting a print), Exact-o knife/hobby knife (cleaning up prints, useful if you have to perform maintenance on the S2 because the kapton can be tricky to remove), pliers (print removal, maintenance), acetone (cleaning print bed every 20ish prints for me), replacement kapton tape (either the pre-cut squares or by the roll, that's strictly a monetary decision though), and something to clean the nozzle incase it clogs (number 13 guitar string has been used, I used a bristle from a steel grill brush). Those I would consider almost mandatory items. Some not-mandatory would be a dial gauge for using Ians bed leveling technique, and heat measuring equipment of some sort to verify that the readings are all correct.

Kapton - Had mine a monthish, still using factory kapton with several tears in it, and it keeps kicking. Until it starts ruining prints, I will continue to use it. Still might have 1-2 spares on hand as it can be tricky putting on I've heard. Might get a small roll of kapton as well (doesn't have to be too thick) for maintenance as you kind of ruin the kapton when removing the hot end if you ever have to.

Grease - No clue myself. Mine is still smooth as silk. However Ian posted this before and I would believe it to be correct.

IanJohnson wrote:

A lithium grease paste, but you should only need to apply every few months.   What is your printer doing?  There might be a problem with belt tension, rod alignment, or a pulley rubbing somewhere.  It isn't going to be because the rods need lubrication.  It sounds like excessive lubrication is letting the printer get along temporarily despite another problem.

Only used ABS so far, myself.

Maintenance - clean the bed with acetone when prints refuse to stick. Twice I've had to clear the nozzle, two second ordeal and not really maintenance, I think mine was more of a fluke. I'd try to keep the nozzle clean. I had even considered taking a small container of acetone and placing it on the bed and raising it until it just submerged the nozzle to clear it off once in a while. Haven't tried it yet though. All in all, I would say it runs very well, and with what I've learned about the machine in the last few times of having to take it apart, I am pretty sure I can fix anything on it now. It is a reliable machine in my opinion.

You can load all of the software beforehand on a Win7 and WinXP based PC for sure, I have yet to do anything with Mac because I don't own one. So that's something else you can do if you haven't.

Only other thing to make sure you have on hand is the filament. I only ordered the Natural at first and I'll be honest, wish I had more options on hand. If you have the money to spare, you might get a couple reels/colors on hand.

3 Reply by maryla

  • maryla
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  • Registered: 2012-09-12
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Re: Filament, Maintenance, Wed Links, Tutorials, etc...

s4 wrote:

Has anyone printed with PLA Filament? Are there standard settings to use with that? When making parts what is the practical difference between making them in PLA or ABS?

I'm also waiting for my printer, and interested in hearing about people's experienced with PLA. I'm planning to use almost exclusively PLA because it's easier to find (at least in France) in 1.75mm and it smells better smile

About PLA vs ABS, here is what  I've READ (as I said I don't have my printer yet, this is all theoretical knowledge so anyone feel free to correct me).

    Differences when printing:

    • PLA has a lower melting point than ABS, so the temperature of the extruder and print bed must be lower. Typical figures for PLA seem to be 180°C for the extruder and 60°C for the print bed.

    • PLA and ABS don't stick to the same kind of surfaces. ABS is typically printed on Kapton tape when on a heated bed (the solidoodle comes with kapton tape on the print bed). PLA works well with either plain glass, or "blue tape". It also sticks to Kapton but it can be hard to remove until it's completely cool.

    • PLA needs more time to cool down/become solid. Especially when printing overhangs, it's important that the last layer becomes somewhat solid before the next layer is printed. So with PLA, you may need to put a fan to speed up the cooling and get good overhangs (I guess you could also lower the speed of the extruder?).

    • PLA doesn't warp as much as ABS when cooling. With ABS you really need a heated bed for large prints so that the base doesn't warp during the print. It's not as necessary with PLA (but I've heard it's still good to have).

    • PLA has more friction which means the printer needs more force (torque) to move it through the extruder, and some people say it can jam more easily.

    Other pratical differences:

    • PLA has a very low "glass transition temperature". Basically it becomes soft at ~60°, so you can't make a coffee cup out of PLA.

    • PLA should be kept in a dry environement as it absorbs moisture easily which will intefere with printing.

    • ABS is slightly flexible, while PLA is very hard. This can be important in some applications: if a design contains some parts that need to bend a bit (for example thingiverse.com/thing:25150) or if it needs to sustain shocks (like a quadcopter thingiverse.com/thing:29632).

    • PLA is natural, biodegradable and smells sweet when printing. When printing, ABS produces fumes which can cause irritation of the throat or even headaches (see the Material Safety Data Sheet). It's usually tolerable but some people are more sensitive to it. In general you should print ABS in a well ventilated area.

    • Natural (uncolored) PLA is slightly transparent. Some people like to light up their prints (thingiverse.com/thing:26016) You can also find transparent colored PLA easily.

    • Finishing techniques differ. For ABS, most people use acetone (e.g. an acetone bath). For PLA, I've heard that heat guns work well. Both types of plastic can be sanded easily.