So I killed my board. What are the latest/best upgrade options (Page 1 of 2)

How do I tell if it's authentic RUMBA?  Will I need a new power supply as well?

the genuine Rumba is still a very reliable replacement board. make sure you order some stepper drivers as well.
4988 are fine for the X, Y & Z axis, but I highly recommend an 8825 for the E

there will be a couple of connectors that will need to be changed - endstops for sure. Not difficult to do, but be aware of it.
Motors can be run to the screw terminals (Rumba has both screw terminals and pins to plug into for the stepper motors), so no worries about connectors there.

hot end and bed heater are also screw terminals, so again, no worries about connectors

Thermistors may also need to have different ends put on.

Those are very good boards. I swear by them even thought they are bit higher priced. Very good quality. I have an X3 and and an X5GT. I also have his Viki I and Viki II LCD's. Thinking about putting the GT on my 4MAX at some point. I love working with Smoothie. So much better laid out Firmware and much easier to find and change settings.

Ordered the RUMBA, how long did shipping take for those of you that ordered it from RepRapDiscount, which appears to be Hong Kong?

Yeah I've already got the drivers in, I bought a 5 pk of 4988 and 1 8825 drivers.  Just waiting on the board, no update on shipping on the order status from last week, so I was just curious how long it took you guys to get it in.

Ok cool, that's not too bad for international.  I'm excited to get the new board in and hopefully be able to get some good smooth prints going again!

There is a Repetier firmware builder online if you want to use Repetier. You just put in all the data it ask for and it will fill in the values then allow you to download the firmware set up as requested. If you want Marlin you will need to figure out the values.

The main values are homing directions, steps per mm for each axis, esteps for extruder, limit switches inverted or not, high temp limit, low temp limit. If you already know the values of your current firmware it would be a good starting point.

Ok, it seems that I have everything working except for the z-home.  When I M119 holding the z stop switch down it shows triggered, but when I hit Z home in Repetier it hits the stop and keeps grinding up against it and the extruder tip.  Home works fine for X and Y, but just not Z.  Any suggestions?

Specific to the version of Marlin I linked earlier.  That’s a very old picture and a simple way to get the job done if not wanting to change the firmware.

I had the Z stop on Z+, switched it to Z- like the above images, and that fixed it.  Now the only thing I think I have left to get it up and running again is that when I home in Repetier, it homes correctly.  However when I load a new print, when it loads the print gcode, it tries raising Z about 5-7 or so, even though the stop is triggered, and therefore hits the extruder and pushes it into the bed, then of course I have to kill it, lower it then re-home.  I've tried changing the firmware but can't find the right setting apparently.  This wasn't an issue with the old Printrboard, so I'm not sure what I'm missing in the firmware to fix it raising the bed and crashing into the extruder when the print loads?